izericson

i hear what you are saying locogato but when im riding i feel like my pro circuits are taking away from my bikes performance. from what i understand (and am probably wrong) a PC is an mx pipe and out in the dunes im running more wide open so it wont really hurt to have a more top end setup. i also am gonna do some trail riding, will the other pipes mentioned (shear, cpi, grr) be crappy for trails. i understand they are drag pipes but any banshee in the trails is gonna take some throttle, clutch, gear finess. thats why we love them. i basically want my quad putting out the most power it can with the mods i have done.

if you are serious and you want them pm me and i will give you my phone number. they are yours for 200 plus shipping. pipes & silencers. i can send pics if you want. let me know .

ok well my banshee is .020 over, dune port, shaved head, lighened flywheel, +5 timing, 34 pj's, and v3's. i have pro circuits now and they are not bad but i know if i put some cpi's, shearers or GRR's it will be alot better. i ride dunes in california, drag, jump, everything. any suggestions? i know this question has been asked 2 million times but i cant decide. ive found all three for around the same price. thanks

hey i have a set of pro circuits i am willing to get rid of cheap. im getting cpi's or grand rivers. pm me or let me know on the thread if you guys want them. they are used but in great shape. do you guys need the same side?

i got a magura. big whoop, not much differance. yea its a little easier to pull but i am not 180 bucks impressed. go with the asv unless you just want it to have it.

could someone please tell me the differance between a stock crank and a stroker crank. like i always hear a +5 or +6. what are the differances? i have a banshee with alot done (carbs, reeds, port, polish, bored out, ect) and now i want a crank but i dont know shit about them.

i need new bulbs for my quad and i looked on the bluebrint, they are talking 10 bucks a pop for those things. i know its just a simple 12 volt 30 wat stanley bulb. anyone know where to pick on up or a good substitute. thank you

hey i rebuilt my shee and wired the lights so they would be on brights all the time. i wanted to clean up the bars so now i have a pushbutton lill and no option of on/off/bright/dim. its just bright as soon as i kick her over. i was told to wire basically yellow to yellow to achieve this. the first night i was gonna start her i did a spark check and it was fine so i fired her up and she ran great, the lights worked and all. so i ran all my wires, zip tied where i needed to and finished her off. when i went to start breaking in my new engine in noticed the headlights nor taillights worked anymore. the only thing i did from the time they worked that first night till they didnt was disconnect and reconnect the plug that goes from the engine to the main harness. now keep in mind that the quad still runs great. starts up fist kick just no lights. i am pretty sure the way i wired it is correct. i got the info from a good source plus looking at the wire diagram in the clymer it all makes sense. the next step for me is to get a mulitmeter and read for voltage at the lights. any suggestions. thank you all very much.

i have read a few bad reviews about them. apparently they used to have a couple differant names and there product was shotty. i have them on my shee and aside from the 10 million ways to adjust them they are fine. my buddy uses them on his yfz 450 and he hasnt had any problems at all. i would recomend them. the only pain is dialing those things in, there is no shit millions of ways to tweak them, i guess that is not totally a bad thing. hope i was helpful.

well i learned something new today. they bored it .020 over but the guy who did it was saying its gonna be a 370. so what will it be bored .020 over. im curious

well i have a banshee bored to a 370 with wisecos, milled stock head, port and polished, v force 3's, 34 mm pj's, +4 timing advance, pro design intake manifold, um billet airbox, 1/4 reed spaceers, lightened flywheel, running half 91 half 110, with elka suspension to match, ohh and i run pro circuit platinums with 304 silencers. up until now i just had a stock shee with the same pro circuits, jetted with a k&n and that thing was fast. i am waiting on the right size carb boots to get here in the mail and she will be ready to run. i am just wondering what to expect. i mean i know its gonna be fast but ive never ridden a quad with anything more than pipes and jets. anybody with comparable mods to give and opinion and also when i go to pismo in two weeks am i gonna be smoking people or what. im just getting anxious cause i cant ride it yet so i just ask about it on here. thankx

hey i redid my shee from the ground up and spliced yellow to yellow so the brights run as soon as she is runnin, put in a pushbutton kill and got 34 mm carbs. with the tors completely removed (i dyked out the tors control box and capped the wires, have a moose thumb throttle and dyked out and capped the two tors connectors that would have gone to the stock carbs) i was told that is the right way to do it. my logic was if the tors is removed all the way and the wires basically dont exist anymore that they should be capped off and not grounded together. am i an idiot or has anyone done anyting similar. thankx.

i run my quad with no key, basically have it hot wired and need something to cover my handlebar clamp besides the stock cover that looks good.

does it have to be a cr style or can it be the regular pushbutton without the rubber boot over it?

i want to make it so my lights are always on and i have a pushbutton kill switch. any ideas and a place to buy the kill switch. thankx

who will win in a sand drag, both stock swingarms with elka suspensions. 450's elka set up is better. 450's mods are maxpower 523cc ice cube big bore stroker 12 5:1 piston, ported and +1 Titanium valves, FCI intake with 41mm adaptor, 41mm mx keihin fcr, gen3 crower cam, and full kory ellis, and im expecting 60HP + hopefully banshee has 34 mm carbs, bored to a 370 with wiseco's, port and polished, milled stock head, pro design manifold, v force 3 reeds with 1/4 in spacers, pro circuit platinums, 6 degree advance in timing running straight 110, lightened flywheel, and um billet airbox with 250r k&n guy who did the porting is talking 75-85 ??????????????????

they said 64hp with porting and milled head, pipes, and k&n. i dont know enough to say BS or not. also on yfz central a guy is saying that 60 hp on a thumpber = 90 on a 2 stroke. the deal is i have my banshee with alot done and its supposidly 75+ bike and my boy has a yfz 450 with a 523 stroker that maxpower racing said is gonna make 60 ish hp. who is gonna be faster? they said the hp diff wont matter because the 4 stroke 60 = 2 stroke 90. is that BS or true.

ok i have a banshee bored to a 370, 34 mm carbs, pro design manifold, port and polished, milled stock head, wiseco race pistons, 6 degree timing advance, lightened flywheel, um billet aibox with 250r k&n, v force 3 reeds and 1/4 inch spacers, full pro cicuits and running 110. the guy who did my porting is talking 75-85 hp. is he blowing smoke up my a$$ or is that a legit claim? i stripped the whole bike down and am building it back up now with the addition of tons of bling, hydro cluth, +2 arms and axle, elkas, lots.......... so i havent gotten to ride it yet so im going off all talk. on albaaction.com they are talking 64 hp with just pipes, jets, milled head and porting. if that is the case then my guys claims seem more legit. all opinions please.

what the hell is stock anyway. stock = garbage

man 100hp is alot. you dont need that kind of power unless you are dragging and very serious about it. before you go nuts just try a good port and polish job and advance the timing 4 degrees with some good gas and a k&n. that will make it a new bike over stock. try going to alba action.com and click on the banshee performance tips. keep in mind if you go up on power you need the suspension to match. 2001 banshee elkas +2+1 arms +2 dura blue eliminator 34mm pj's bored to 370 wiseco pistons port polish milled head +6 timing um airbox 250r k&n pro design madifold delta 3's pro circuits everything billet and clean

i run pro circuits and they are awesome! in my opinion they are the best. they were great with just jets and a k&n and now they are insane with a 370, milled head, ported & polished, v3's, um aluminum airbox, ect.......go with the pro circuits!