izericson

hey i have t5's that are not chromed just the plain old metal ones. i rode at pismo yesterday and when i woke up this morning those babys already had a lot of rust on them. what can i do to prevent this? thank you

:ninja: yo whats up with jay cutler beating ronnie coleman in olympia. that is bullshit lee priest is the biggest guy in the world but king kimalli still should have won. i like T-5's

start with the airscrew all the way in so you have a starting point and then turn it half/full/ two full times out or wherever you want it. depending on your elevation and your carbs someone on here should have a clue as to about how many turns out to start at then tweek it from there.

get yourself a clymer manual and it tells you how to do all that good stuff. also get a tors eliminator kit and loose those things on top of your carbs. once you do that it is very easy to sync your carbs. you get get a tors kit on ebay for pretty cheap.

as stated above what clutch you put in is gonna depend on your mods and how much power you have. more power = heavier duty clutch/springs.

no i have never. where is that?

hanford

yea whatever im an ass. i fixed it with the "idle adjust" i didnt realize that one carb adjusted clockwise and the other counter. so basically i kept putting them opposite. pretty gay on my part

ok it starts idles runs fine but when im at idle and go to hit the throttle fast it boggs but if i gradually hit it it revs fine. when i say gradually i dont mean like 10 second just finess the throttle rather than hit it fast. any clue what could cause this 165 jets 56 pilot air screw i full turn out. rest of mods in sig

hey i just put t5's on the rest of my mods are in my sig. my bike starts first kick and runs strong but wont idle. only will run when i am on the gas as soon as i let off it dies. only work i have done was replace my water pump bearing and seal and put on new pipes. im running 165 mains, 56 pilot with the air screw i full turn out. needles are on the 3rd clip. please help i wanna ride tomorow.

i thought the stock banshee rear shock was pretty good. i have elkas up front but left the rear stock shock. its rides great. plus the rear shock was 800 bucks. i would say front suspension then rear.

no advanced timing + no increase in compression = dont waste your money on anything over 91

my shee had 65ish after my rebuild. then i put a pro design boost bottle on it and had it dynod at 285 hp. hayabusa banshee look out...........

when you say pull start do you mean like get it pulled by another bike and dump the clutch in gear to start it? im confused if there is no spark to the plug when you kick it is it possible for spark to apear later. things arent adding up

it doesnt really hurt performance but you are wasting your money because your engine is not burning it all. running 110 in a stock engine does zero for performance except make your exhaust smell better in my opinion.

i just had this problem, pop of your clutch basket and make sure your shift shaft is adjusted correct. i dont know the tech terms here but there should be equal spacing on the top and bottom. them come out of adjustment over time. if you go to a local shop they should know what you are talking about. i cant explain in on here but its not really hard. while you have that stuff out you may as well get a moded shift star also. any good shop that deals with banshees should know by looking once you remove the basket what is going on. maybe an hour of labor and 20 bucks or so for the shiftstar. just dont go to a dealership. good luck

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWN%3AIT check out that link, i just bought them. good deal. F chrome for that price. i would keep checking back or contact direct to see if he has any more or maybe is getting some in. nevermind the plus anything swinger, i have mods out the ass and a standard cause i like to jump. stretch your bike out if you want to drag if not dont worry about it. reeds, PORTING, timing plate, GOOD PIPES and you are well on your way for a little while but beware once you start the viscious cycle of moding you bike it will never end........you will always want more until you have a fucking nasa rocket sticking out the back. good luck

that is absolutely not the case. it does let more air in but keeps dirt and sand out. that is the whole purpose of upgrading. does your bike have stock pipes? do you have your airbox lid on? if you have aftermarket pipes (which i highly recomend) then you should look into something like this....cut and paste the link below. leaving a banshee stock is a sin! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMESE%3AIT

hey i need to replace my water pump seal, gasket cover, crankcase seal and gasket, and the shift cam fork plug. anyone know a place aside from the slearership that i can get this stuff relatively cheap? thank you

hell no i own them and they sound mint. they scream. pretty much no aftermarket pipe sounds like stock unless you get like the environmentaly freindly spark arrestors that limit the db's. trust me those pro circuits sound awesome.

i dont know what it means to give yourself a bumb. i see he just has the word bump writen after some people requested pics. what is that?

who is the guy with them for sale i will buy them right now.

yea so i feel pretty stupid for going to trinitys site looking for toomys. i do understand what you are saying about sick power out of the cpis or drag pipes but its only gonna be there when im wide open which is great, but for the riding i do i want the power spread out over the whole throttle. thank you!!!

i was just on trinitys website and they only have stage 4's on there. do they not make T5's anymore? what is the differance between T5's, stage 4's and the PC's. Thank you guys for all the input, i spent a decent chunk of change on my bike and i want the best pipes i can get.

so i would notice an improvement running T5's instead of the PC's?