izericson

hey i have t5's that are not chromed just the plain old metal ones. i rode at pismo yesterday and when i woke up this morning those babys already had a lot of rust on them. what can i do to prevent this? thank you

:ninja: yo whats up with jay cutler beating ronnie coleman in olympia. that is bullshit lee priest is the biggest guy in the world but king kimalli still should have won. i like T-5's

start with the airscrew all the way in so you have a starting point and then turn it half/full/ two full times out or wherever you want it. depending on your elevation and your carbs someone on here should have a clue as to about how many turns out to start at then tweek it from there.

get yourself a clymer manual and it tells you how to do all that good stuff. also get a tors eliminator kit and loose those things on top of your carbs. once you do that it is very easy to sync your carbs. you get get a tors kit on ebay for pretty cheap.

as stated above what clutch you put in is gonna depend on your mods and how much power you have. more power = heavier duty clutch/springs.

no i have never. where is that?

hanford

yea whatever im an ass. i fixed it with the "idle adjust" i didnt realize that one carb adjusted clockwise and the other counter. so basically i kept putting them opposite. pretty gay on my part

ok it starts idles runs fine but when im at idle and go to hit the throttle fast it boggs but if i gradually hit it it revs fine. when i say gradually i dont mean like 10 second just finess the throttle rather than hit it fast. any clue what could cause this 165 jets 56 pilot air screw i full turn out. rest of mods in sig

hey i just put t5's on the rest of my mods are in my sig. my bike starts first kick and runs strong but wont idle. only will run when i am on the gas as soon as i let off it dies. only work i have done was replace my water pump bearing and seal and put on new pipes. im running 165 mains, 56 pilot with the air screw i full turn out. needles are on the 3rd clip. please help i wanna ride tomorow.

i thought the stock banshee rear shock was pretty good. i have elkas up front but left the rear stock shock. its rides great. plus the rear shock was 800 bucks. i would say front suspension then rear.

no advanced timing + no increase in compression = dont waste your money on anything over 91

my shee had 65ish after my rebuild. then i put a pro design boost bottle on it and had it dynod at 285 hp. hayabusa banshee look out...........

when you say pull start do you mean like get it pulled by another bike and dump the clutch in gear to start it? im confused if there is no spark to the plug when you kick it is it possible for spark to apear later. things arent adding up

it doesnt really hurt performance but you are wasting your money because your engine is not burning it all. running 110 in a stock engine does zero for performance except make your exhaust smell better in my opinion.