IRONDOG

A 2 stroke engine builder that would use a ball or brush hone as a last step doesn't have a clue. Why would you want to ruin a perfect cylinder wall finish obtained with the proper hone by going over it with a dingleberry hone in the hopes that you would gain something by smoothing the chamfering? When I chamfer ports I use a very hard fine mounted stone that I have shaped into a radius that produces a nice rounded edge on the ports. No further smoothing is desired or necessary. If you feel you absolutely have to smooth the chamfers with the dingleberry hone do it after the boring process but before you do the final hone with the correct hone. Jerry France IRONDOG www.atvswapmeet.com

Here's two things for you grasshopper... 1) Here's a nice link to explain the term "cam ground" that you are not familiar with. Read it and get back to me. http://www.tpub.com/content/engine/14037/css/14037_103.htm 2) You would be hard pressed to find a ball or brush hone in any "highly recognized racing engine program's" machine shop. The proper way to hone a cast iron cylinder is with a rigid stone hone. Not a cheap spring loaded glaze breaker, I'm talking about a $400 Sunnen hone. A ball or brush hone will not give you the finish you can get with a real hone. About all you get using a ball or brush hone is a warm fuzzy feeling when you mask all the worn spots in your cylinder and it looks all new again when in reality it ain't even close. I know a little bit about this. Jerry www.atvswapmeet.com

Piston clearance is not measured at the top of the piston- it's normal to have more clearance at the top because the pistons are made that way. They are "cam ground" smaller at the top to allow for more expansion in that area as the piston heats up. The thicker top area of a piston will expand more than the thinner skirt area. I bore cylinders every day and I can guarantee you yours will need to be bored- you have wear at the exhaust port area that you cannot see as well as wear on the back of the cylinder around the intake ports. If you run a rigid hone through them this will be evident, you will see lots of low worn areas that will be untouched by the hone. Don't use a ball hone (dingleberry hone) those are for lawnmowers.

The 5 and 7 you see are the first two numbers of the Wiseco part number - clean off the top some more and post the whole number- it should be 573M06xxx Jerry

Here's a link that will show you what you need to know.. http://www.cpcracing.com/site/256083/page/196309 Jerry

This piston photo does not indicate a "tad rich" condition- you are in fact very rich, you have way to much piston wash. The original poster's picture indicates a lean condition- he has no piston wash at all. Read up on piston wash, then you will understand what I'm talking about. Jerry

I ship daily to Canada by the US Post Office- best for items less than 5 pounds. I can hook you up with any Banshee items you need. Look for eBay seller i-dog. Jerry

Ditch the paper gasket- what brand was it anyway? Where did you get it? Lots of liguid cooled bikes in the past used paper gaskets without problems but I've never seen anything but steel shim gaskets for Banshees (other than "o"rings).

OK, here is the answer to the dreaded "split the case to change the seal" problem. Go to your Yamaha dealer and pick up seal number 93103-40058, you may have to order it but it has been used on many Yamaha dirt bikes since the early seventies so they may have it in stock. It is identical to the factory Banshee R.H. crank seal except it does not have the molded in retaining ring on the o.d. Remove the old seal by drilling the holes as previously stated or just pry out the seal- it's in there tight but you can get it out. The new seal installs with the stand-off nubbies towards the bearing, just like the seal you just removed. You can install it dry or if you are worried about it pushing out put a thin layer of Yamabond 4 on the o.d. of the seal, this will assist in installation and will retain the seal very well when dry. (ThreeBond 1104 is the same as Yamabond 4 and is available from any decent bike shop) Be sure to put some light grease such as lithium on the inner seal lips to ease break-in of the seal on start-up. I use a slurry of moly grease and two cycle oil on the lips but not everyone has the correct moly. Oh, and I recommend always using factory OEM seals, not the cheap "seal kits" that are purveyed over the internet. Nothing is better than a factory seal and they aren't that expensive. Feel free to email or PM me if you have any further questions on this procedure. Jerry

Here ya go: http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/ You're welcome. Jerry

Send it to me, I'll true and heliarc a factory crank for $80 (three places). A Hot Rods crank is $90 (five places). I am in Clio, north of Flint. Or you can bring it up in person and I will ship it back to you when it's completed. Jerry France IRONDOG 810-687-4355

I can do this for you- I do most of the sleeve jobs for the shops in my area (Flint, Michigan). I machine for the proper interference fit and match all the ports perfectly. Guaranteed to look and perform like new, or better if you want it. No issues, just good work. Call me at 810-687-2184 until midnight. Jerry

Using 10w30 or 10w40 engine oil as a trans oil is fine, as is using any of the trans- specific "gear lube" oils available at the bike shop. Do not use hypoid or type gl-4 or gl-5 oil in the trans. The syl-glide will work fine on the crank seals, just put it in the area between the two seal lips on each seal. It's for seal protection on start-up until the seals get the lube they need from the oil-gas mixture they will be emersed in. Leave the outside of the seals clean and dry where they contact the case halves. You will have the lower case half on the bench with the trans and crank laying in it waiting to receive the upper half. Be sure the crankshaft bearing locating "nubs" on the outside of the bearings are where they should be. The mating surfaces of the case halves should be degreased with an evaporative solvent such as brake cleaner on a clean rag. Then a thin layer of Yamabond 4 will be applied to the mating surfaces of the upperr case half. Very little is needed, but be sure to cover the entire mating surface. Bolt the two halves together and turn all the shafts to make sure there is no binding. Good luck with it. Jerry

Try a free ad at www.snowmobileswapmeet.com . I also have many Invader parts, email me. Jerry

Try a free ad at www.atvswapmeet.com It's much newer than my other two free sites but I expect it to grow like the others. Good luck selling it. Jerry www.atvswapmeet.com www.dirtbikeswapmeet.com www.snowmobileswapmeet.com