wildbansheeboy

Cool,but y is your piston height higher?

on the crank it s stamped h.r 204 & rods are stamped ck158 but has no B. Do you have 795's pistons?

I was a little sleepy last night I checked it out again and the piston goes all the way up and it dont hit the domes but close(the dome of the piston is above the cylinder but the out side edge is even) and thier is no spacer plate.The domes have not been cut.so is this a 4mm stroker with a long rod? do I need to have the domes cut or IS IT JUST A LONG ROD ? The guy I got it from has no clue what the hell it is the porting is a full drag port but don,t know who did the work? THE PISTONS ARE 795'S 4sure. HEADACHES

Well here is the deal ,I got this motor and was told it is a stroker so i decided to dig in to it and see the rods say hot rods and the pistons are 795,s but the domes are not cut and the pistons dont go all the way to the top of the cylinders so i turned the motor over so the rod was at its lowest point and also did this to a stock lower end and the stock rod motor is shorter.any ideas what i have?

I want to put an override tranny in my drag banshee do I need to do anything other then take and split the cases and take the stock one out and slap the over ride in? I am leaning towards the 1-5 over ride and 6th with the use of the clutch. I never split a case before but I sure want to do this my self any help would be great :beer:

So whats so good about the 5mm longrod? I hear it is so good from a couple of local drag racers high rpms is what they say. I don't know much about the long rod that is why I am asking . Do You get higher R's or what good is the 5mm long rod? ::

What way to go Long Rod +5 OR 4MM STROKER. We are going to create another drag Quad and want to know whats better out of the two. I have a 4mm and would like to know whats differnt then a 5mm long rod .I was told the that a stroker puts out more TQ and a long rod revs higher(Top End:Drag ported cyl. and pvl stator no rev box.) what do u all know? :cool:

Rev it till it blows,Stock rev is around 9500 RPM

Just looking to add more power . WHAT IS THE BEST WET OR DRY I'M NOT SURE WHAT TO DO THAT IS WHY AM ASKING.

NOT SURE HERD ALOT ABOUT BOON DOCKERS INJECTION SYSTEM

Hey, I am looking to add a nitrous injection system (20 shot AT LEAST ) on my drag Shee( the bitch) HAVE ANY OF U SHEE FREAKS EVER DID THIS?Is this a good thing or not ?Do I retard Timing Like I do With my ROCKET YAMAHA R1 drag bike ? U can check out my Mods 2 c if this will work 4 me. I am Looking 4 more power with out changing my stroke if U FREAKS CAN GIVE ME ANY IDEAS PLEASE DO SO. I need to keep kickin the shit out of those 4-pokes at the 300ft drags. BANSHEE WILL BE KING 4EVER ON MY BOOKS!

I have a dirt digger clutch(heavy springs) in mine and works well with no lockout but a lockout & over ride tranny is my next mod.

Yes Blaster shocks are 1 inch or so shorter. the last drag race i was at thier was a shee that had stock shocks on i :thumb: t and had custum mount welded farther out on the lower a- arms and this really lowed it. Cheap way to go.

Lookin 4 a tester .Will get back to u guys :thumb:

2ND RACE ALMOST HERE

YES,I have seen this and they seem to work in the mud real well

yes,its the same side,yes it is a fresh top end but it was doing it be4 the new pistons.It started to run like shit and it had been a while on the pistons so i took her apart and one cylinder was in need of new bore so I got the cylinders bored and a set of new pro lites and put her back to the way see was and still having the same problems.I have played with the jets from 172,175,178,& 185 .May be I am to rich but at one time before the rebuild she ran great with 175 with fmf fattys & when I switched to cpi in frames i went up 2 178 and in cooler weather even bigger.I still have the cpi's on her.I have switched and check the plugs all the time the side that drops is wet if I pull it out right after running it :shoothead:

I HAVE NEW BOOTS AND ALSO JUST PUT IN NEW REEDS IN AND i HAVE CHECKED 4 LEAKS AND IT ALL LOOKS GOOD. ANY OTHER IDEAS?

Here is my problem . WHEN OUT RIDING MT BANSHEE i DROP ONE CYLINDER ABOUT 1/3 THROTTLE AND IN I BACK OFF AND ACCELRATE SLOW IT STILL IS BOGGING OUT .IF I AM SITTING AND CRACK IT WIDE OPEN IT FALLS ON IT FACE MISSING AND SPITTING.I HAVE PLAYED WITH THE JETTING,SWITCHED CARBS FROM RIGHT TO LEFT STILL THE SAME,CHANGED CDI,PLAYED WITH TIMING,CHECKED WIRING HARNESS 4 CRACKS,SWITCHED COIL,AND ANY THING ELSE I CAN THINK OF IF ANY OF U GUYS HAVE ANY IDEAS LET ME KNOW. SHEE IS FAR FROM STOCK IT IS THE ONE LISTED ONE THE BOTTOM OF THE POST :shoothead:

I have a 4mm stroker crank & stock cylinders bored 40 over. How many cc is shee? :biggrin:

Do I have to rejet after I installed a 4mm crank.Shee was dialed in with stock crank?

I AGREE :thumb:

My buddy's shee act's the same way when it's cold but when it warms up no problems.Going to try differnt weight oil in crank case . :shrug:

How do I set the float height on my 35mm pwk air stryker carbs so they are the same ?

6 day's till the race.