joker149999

Well if you have stock pipes and no other mod's done too your bike other then a lightened fly wheel and the timing advanced then you should not be running a advance timing you should leave it stock, i'm gonna advance my timing + 4 but i have t-5 pipes, no airboxs, filter's, long rod crank, .80 thousand over piston's, high compression head, racing piston's, port and poilshing done, and i have re geared my bike

I'm just running 15/40 delo in my Transmission and it does fine when it's cold or warm

ok so if i have these mod's done what is a good advance i should do on the timing? My bike is a 2000, it has a long rod crank in it it has .80 over piston's, racing piston's high compression head, high flow water pump, 13 tooth primary sprocket, no air box's and t-5 pipes, and it's been ported and polished when you advance the timing does it just increase throttle responce? or anything else?

You should be alright just using the stock piston's just replace the piston ring's on them and check too make sure the piston liner's still have the cross stiching in them if there still pretty good then yeah just replace the piston ring's and put her back together

Well for one you can take off your head light's and tail light's and cut off and remove the bracket's for them, i had a buddie that did that and also removed all the stuff for just his front brake's, his bike is pretty light, i also know a company here in utah made a ultra light racing kit for the banshee, where they pretty much build you a new frame just with smaller metal,

I went to the website for the idler adj. screw's by toomie and it say's you need a number 6 drill bit, that would be a 1/4 inch bit correct?

Well what size drill bit do you need and tap? to drill and tap the idle screw holes out? does anyone know? also do you even have too change them screws?

So do you take out the old idle adjument screws then? or is there a different spot you have too put the new screw's? do you know what size drill bit and tap you need for these adjument screws?

when you put new throttle cables on so you can get rid of the override on the carb s i was told you have too have the carbs machined out too put new idle adjuster screw's in or the bike won't run right once you get rid of the electroinc override bull shit, is that true? or can you just run the new cables and get rid of the electronic bull shit and not have too change the idler adjustment screws?