[Bogs a little if I hit it to hard off start and laggs for power band]

27.5 pilot. Air screw 3/4-1 1/2 turns out. 

[Banshee bogs on take off.]

On 1/15/2020 at 11:15 PM, Jared23x said:

Hot rods crank with 65 mm weisco pistons with a simple transfer port port job 20 cc domes v force 3 reeds and pod filters stock carbs

What pipes? Stock stroke crank?

[Banshee bogs on take off.]

On 1/15/2020 at 2:22 PM, Jared23x said:

Ya carbs are completely clean ive literally cleaned them probobly 10 times. I took out the main jet tube, pilots, air jet, neddle and seat, everything. And turning my air screws out makes me more lean and my idle revs out to limiter. Or it will hang really bad. I feel like me going to 32.5 on a mostly stock motor is way to much but thats what it wants idk.

If you’ve got pilots that fat in there and it’ll still lean hang, you’ve got an Air leak. 

 

[Jetting for pipes and pod filters]

On 1/11/2020 at 8:26 PM, trumanbuckley1 said:

Hello, I have a very similar banshee setup with T5’s, pods, +2° timing, TORS, stock carbs, Toomey needles, my jetting at 900ish ft above sea level is 25 pilot, 310 mains (I’m still 1 jet just above where I could be, but left it slightly rich for peace of mind) and the needle on the 4th notch. On my particular engine it really liked that setup and on a 60° day pulled very strong for what it is. I don’t have any pics of my plugs but I could take some if you want. Here’s a pic of the dyno graph


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That thing could definitely use a little more pilot. 

[Jetting for pipes and pod filters]

On 9/6/2019 at 6:50 PM, jason.perez said:

I ended up with the 290 main. When I go up to 3000 ft should I bump up to 300 or 310. And do you think I’ll have to mess with the needles, I know u can’t really tell cuz ur not on it but just from experience 

When you go up in elevation, you actually should be actually be using less fuel as the air is less dense. More then likely you can use the 290, but if it acts all blubbery you can drop it down to 280. 

[Banshee wont take throttle]

The original jets you had in there were spot on for that set up. Maybe drop the main to 280-290. But 27.5 pilot is what ya need. 

[Banshee wont take throttle]

Always get rid of parking brake wires and TORS

[34pj’s 70mm jetting]

On 1/5/2020 at 8:16 AM, Biggt613 said:

Thanks alot. I am expecting to be in the 0-10f range most of the time but its about 32f now. Was pulling motor apart last night and organizing the big bore stuff. My 1 piece boss billet intake with the v4’s will push my carbs back 3/4” or so. I dont think my airbox will fit so i am ordering uni pods tomorrow. Would have had everything together but when shop took new piston out of box to match with jugs they for got to put rings back in. With the pods i will probably start at 175 mains and work down. 

Update?

[What's the biggest carb size you would go on stock banshee with DMC pipes]

Flat

[What kind of port could this be]

Seems kinda like a pretty light trail/mx type port. Not much real internal transfer work. 

[Was riding my banshee and it quit running plugs was red. Clean then started again?]

Race fuel? Like a cinnamon red?

[Jetting for 2 into 1]

Find an EEK needle before doing anything with it. 

[How bad is running toasted clutch cushions?]

Get a new basket, inner hub, and make sure your pressure plate is good to go. 

[26 Mikuni VS 28 Mikuni flats]

Flat slide > Round slide all day. 

[Forged Pistons]

Nikasil bore?

[Foot peg repair]

Short cut. This guy already has dimensions for you. 

 

[Banshee top end]

40 minutes ago, gusto said:

On the low rpm pipes

Yes. I did on Rockets and T5’s. My oval track motors (high comp 4mils)  start fighting heat real bad after about 10-12 laps so that’s what made me do some tinkering. I just never liked the T5’s, so that was the first set I cut up. I did big bore stingers on them, but it just made them even lazier on the bottom and not pull up top, so I swapped them back to the factory stingers. The Rockets gave me some pretty good results though. I put big bore stingers on the rockets and the bottom end felt the same and it actually let them pull a little more RPM. It totally got rid of the abrupt sign off they had like the SLP’s do. Plus the motor didn’t seem to fight the heat like it did and I was able to back off the main jet a size to get more power with out the extra heat. 

[Banshee top end]

SLP’s sign off quite early, so that’s a big contributor. Especially if you’re trying to run wide open for any period of time. You can do some gearing changes to compensate for it. 

[Boyesen Rad VS. Vforce 4]

On 1/7/2020 at 10:57 PM, Deets said:

Has anybody ran the the Rad Valve? 

I’ve ran the Rad’s, VF2’s, VF3’s, & VF4’s. The Rad’s are not bad and have a really nice block that always seals up. But they won’t support the bigger aftermarket cylinders like all the V Force stuff. 

[Power band]

On any two stroke, you’ll be hard pressed to get it to come on hard before 5k. Most of the mods you have help, but maybe a pipe change to SLP’s could help, but not much. The other option to really get it snappy would be to switch to race fuel and give it some more compression and timing. 

[Bought a banshee with a Lien]

Just now, specialblend07 said:

 

Cost more going to court than what the whole bike is worth.

Exactly. 

[Bought a banshee with a Lien]

Ya, time for a cheap frame swap. Or take that guy to court. Either way it’s gonna cost you time and money and ya might as well get to it. 

[Reed spacers on stock carbs ?]

6 hours ago, Deets said:

I thought reed spacers gave more “storage room” for atomized fuel mix. And  added a hint of throttle response? 
we use to add them on our sleds back in the day

Myth. Reed spacers and boost bottles are mythical gains. 

[What edition Banshees were made?]

I don’t recall Lone Star ever doing a production run of bikes. They do make nice stuff though. I’d bet it’s just Lone Star parts and someone tossed the stickers on to. 

[ISO 2 into 1 carb setup]

Find an early excited 440 intake.