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Posts posted by trickedcarbine
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Upper 70’s hp. The big bore sleeves in a stock cylinder just don’t allow much transfer volume to make much more power with out welding.
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5mil stroker is as far as you can go on a crank with out trenching. 6-70mm is about as big as you can go in bore/sleeve size with out having to bore the top case half.
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Lectrons are ok, but the 36’s will be a bit big. Also no need to set them up for a pump. You won’t be moving that kind of fuel through the motor. Just get the dual pinguel petcock.
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3 hours ago, Deets said:
Wasn’t the guy a member here?
Old school member.
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On 1/28/2020 at 2:55 PM, Deets said:
What psi roughly would you say pump gas is at it’s max?
Lotta factors, but as far as stock cylinders go with out having a the exhaust port opened up to much, 150-155psi.
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20cc domes put a 4mil stock cylinder motor in race gas territory. 93 will probably detonate. Keep the 20cc domes and give it 4 degrees of timing and feed it some 110. C12 or VP110 will keep it nice and happy. Race fuel typically benefits from being able to run higher compression and timing. Then you get in to oxygenated fuels and you see even greater potential. But just tossing race fuel in a motor built to run pump gas will actually make less power.
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15 hours ago, Deets said:
Thanks, I’ll get it swapped out.
There is a line in the casting, I’m assuming that is where you orientate the timing from.
The line where the case halves meet is what you dial the plate to. +4 is pretty widely used on pump gas motors with out a ton of compression. You have a real flywheel puller, right?
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Internal porting looks stock, but no way to be sure if the pistons are still stock or not. Tear it down and get them to whoever will bore them and they will tell you what size pistons you need. Just get some new weiscos and gaskets to keep the cost down. If you let it go and the piston gives up, it’ll cost a lot more to fix.
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Nope. Nothing wrong with it but the cost. Once the motor is jetted right, it shouldn’t fowl plugs so throw the eix on. I’ve had the EIX’s in my current set up for over a year.
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The triple exhaust port work is what makes those cylinders move more then most. If the motor can eat and shit that much, the CPI will blow the T5’s outta the water and have about as much bottom end.
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On 1/20/2020 at 5:23 AM, Deets said:
It is a cast one on there now. Junk?
Usually. Some times the bolt hole eyelets crack and then let the plate loose. Then it bounces off the stator and flywheel. It can get pricey real quick.
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Also, when it goes back together, make sure you don’t mix up the left and right carb bowls. Make sure to use a new line for the choke tube between the carbs. And check that the cut away on the carb slides face the back of the quad. All simple stuff, but sometimes guys get in a hurry and over look it and chase issues because they were sure they did it right. Double check everything.
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If the rest of the motor is stock including air box, 27.5 pilot and 280 mains should get you right in the ball park. If it’s got pod filters, maybe 290-300 mains.
Give it some fresh spark plugs, set the pick up gap on the flywheel, and see what it’ll do.
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Snipers...
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Is the one on the bike cast or billit? If it’s cast, definitely put the Mattoon one on there.
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On 1/17/2020 at 4:11 PM, trumanbuckley1 said:
The tuner I went to didn’t use An AFR sensor. Why do you say go up on the pilot and add more timing? When I get a chance I’ll take a pic of my plugs and see what you think
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkExperience and knowledge after countless set ups and dyno pulls. Plus the 25 pilot is for stock pipes and intake. You’ve got it breathing better, so now it needs to be fed better. And 4 degrees timing on a basic stock ish bolt ons set up always do well with 4degrees if you’re running premium fuel.
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Sick. Glad to hear it’s running good. My old 440ish stock cyl was a fun motor on the ice.
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On 1/17/2020 at 10:42 PM, the boris said:
Isn't blaster 250cc single cylinder?
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
200cc
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If you’re trying to get it to shift through all 6 gears, you’ll need to be spinning the output shaft forward at the same time or everything will bind or stop half way between shifts.
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Just remember to purge the carbs if you’re running oxygenated race fuels. It can turn to jelly in the carbs if left to long.
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Oh man, gonna be tits! I kinda like them laid out the way they are in the pic. They look like a 250R pipe. I’d imagine they’ll come up and in a bit when it’s all said and done though. Nice rig. Glad someone swooped that thing up and is riding the hell out of it. Did you buy it with the twister small block to?
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On 1/11/2020 at 9:42 PM, trumanbuckley1 said:
Hello, I have a 2002 with T5’s and pod filters, +2° timing, stock carbs. My jets are 25 pilots, 310 mains (they’re about 1 size above where I could be, but I played it safe with a nice caramel color, I’d rather be slightly rich and not rebuild too soon) needle on the 4th notch, and mine pulls very well and smooth throughout the powerbandWhere’s the AF ratio at? And give that thing 27.5 pilot and 2 more degrees of timing.
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On 10/22/2005 at 10:19 PM, mattb348 said:
OK I do know that the stock main jet for my 2002 banshee is a #200, according to the manual. But the POS doesn't say what the stock pilot jet size is! Anyone here know?
Also, I was told by a member here that if I put on pro circuit pipes & silencers (my banshee is 100% stock, and I'm only putting pipes on it), then I'll have to switch to #280 main jets, and #27.5 pilots. Doesn't this seem like a huge step up in sizes for just putting on pipes?
Lastly, what increments do the jet sizes go up/down in??? like for instance, what is the next step up from a #200 main? like 210 or something? And what about the pilot?
Thanks a million guys!
Stock is 25 pilot, 200 main.
If you do a pro circuit exhaust, the 27.5 pilot 280 mains is pretty close. Filter set up could change the main a size up if you have pods.
What’s your choice of Fuel, Brand of Pre Mix & Ratio ?
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
VP110 32:1 with Blendzall.