mxbanshee

TTT

Ebay auction only has 3 days left, HURRY! MX BANSHEE ON EBAY Thanks for bidding everyone!

TTT

This quad is now up for auction on ebay for WAY WAY WAY cheaper. Happy bidding! 2000 BANSHEE - EBAY

Sorry Dan, no parting! I am now taking offers, reasonable offers please. My baby HAS to go! Let'em start!

Thanks Banshee Man. If it doesn't go whole, it will sit. I don't think I could part it out, even though I know I'd make more money.

I have one, major fast, great to putt! GO HERE

Thanks DMC, really appreciated! :beer:

Hey Dinner, I know, it is hard to let go of your baby! Life goes on. I am from the Sudbury area. Sounds to me like your kinda interested, and you are local, make me a reasonable offer...

O.K folks, here's the scoop. This quad is a 2000. It was purshed by my friend brand new off the showroom floor. I now have the ownership, or title in US, registered in my name with appropriate VIN #. All taxes have been paid for and the quad is currently insured under my name with this info and I am in posesion of a licence plate for the quad. The first owner did the initial must have upgrades. He put on the Trinity Stage V pipes and Trinity cool head. He also put a prodesign intake, UNI filter and jetted. When I purshed it it had Maxxis Razr 2's all around on stock rims, these tire will be included in the sale. More general info. The first owner did an excellent job keeping this thing reliable. No internal engine mods whatsoever. When it came time for me to buy one the major thing I wanted was a reliable engine that wasn't hacked to crap. Since I have owned it I have kept the engine stock and have only changed the oil. Don't get me wrong, this thing rips. Bumping up the compression with the cool head and opening up the air flow turns this into a HP monster. Another note is that I live in Canada, so we only get like 3 months out of the year to ride. This has never been in the snow. So since it's purchase in 2000, it only has 18 months worth of riding. And the guy before me hardly never rode, he is perfectionist and just did a lot of waxing, which was perfect for me. When I bought this from him it was not for sale. I offered him lots of cash, he couldn't refuse. So he sold it to me and bought a DS650, what a dummy . Yes I could of bought a brand new one, but this already had the pipes, head, jets, and box done, plus a got some Razr 2's and some Tag Metal bars abd clamps. So I buy this thing, and yes, I'm kinda nuts (by the amount of money I spent). And boy did I have many a good arguments with my beautiful wife, by looking at this quad you see who won. I got addicted to putting parts on it, big time. I loved to see this thing from a great reliable quad to a moggul eating monster. Yes I can go into each and every mod, like the polished cases (I do my own polishing with wheels and compounds) and the infinite amount of billet, to the supper comfortable bar set-up that has and LSR 2+1 stem, Fasst Flex bars, Spider grips, ASV levers and Acerbis guards, and of course the suspention. There is an outdated list on this forum where somebody asked me to list my mods that you could find, or ask me specifics and I will be very happy to respond. Again this is the sad old story of student going to school, student needs money, wife sees dollar bills sitting in garage, student must sell quad. And the truth of the matter is that this barely gets ridden, so I am willing to part. I have an honors udergraduate degree and I'm starting my graduate degree in September. So yes, you do have me in a pickle, since it's the end of July. Now, I will tell what is not up to snuff on this quad, you should know. There is a real small antifreeze leak. I know exactly where it is comming from but havn't gotten around to fixing it yet. It slowly draws from the reserve tank at the back. Now I mean small, you could ride all weekend and not need to bring antifreeze. The current Duncan racing seat cover is ripped up at the top of the seat, I do have the stock seat cover in mint condition that will be included. The price to sew up the Duncan would be cheaper than buying a new one. When I installed it I was worried about it being to loose and look and feel like shit so I ended up putting it on a bit to tight. There are a few plasit stretch marks which are inevitable. I painted the frame on this, which I wish wouldn't have. I wish I would have spent just a little more and got it powder coated. People reading this learn from my mistake, always powder coat. That is all that is "wrong" with this quad. But I will tell you what I think need maintenance. I have never changed the brake pads, breaks work AWSOME with the stainless steel brake lines though, I'm just telling ya everything. Also, there has never been and internal engine work. If I was to keep it I would probably just put a stock set of Yamaha rings in it to keep it fresh. I think that a quad that is ridden hard( which this has not) might gain something like one or two HP from installing new rings. Again, there is nothing wrong with engine or rings but I'm stating what maintence will be requiered, if your into maintenance. Some guys just ride till something breaks. Speaking maintenance there has been major maintenance done. Fresh carrier barrings, new sprockets and Renthal chain, new throttle cable etc.. I have receipts for every single thing that was done which will be handed over to new owner, even the receipts from the first owner. When I was spending major cash I loved to watch the bag of receipts fill up, it is stuffed. So the important stuff. I have this listed all over the place, it has to go so let the listings begin. Actually selling this is my part time job until September, besides my real job. I am keeping a list of all places this is listed and will post SOLD, as soon as it's gone. The second thing is that I live in Ontario Cadada and will be moving to Saskatchewan in September. I will be willing to meet somebody to make an exchange. I will drive a full day (12hrs) max. Another option that I see looking on ebay is that there are shippers that will do it. It looks like it will be about $300 to $500, it is a lot of money but who knows, it's an option. Here are the pics, sorry some are a little dirty, I hate it when it's dirty; Also, not all are up to date, some don;t have the stem and bars, and not all pics have the -1 LSR swingarm, some don't even have grips. Some pics are large, may take a bit to load. Price: $8000 Canadian FIRM. That is $7,006.17 US acording to Yahoo Finance Currency converter on July 24th. Please guys and girls, only serious buyers!

Sweet :beer:

I would never paint a case. It is right where your boot rub and I don't care what paint or how many layers of clear it will come off, same with chrome. Either polish or PC. Again, my $0.02

Absolutely love mine!

I absolutely love mine! I used to get major blisters with all the other cheapo's like scott and 909. An amazing product!

Trinity Stage 5. Check them out, they make the most most power, are full Stainless steel so no rusting when the chrome chips off, and they have a most distinct sound. They are kinda lower and not so obnoxious as the others.

Keep the rubber side down! :thumb:

Here's one

Thanks for the props JET 99 and Bansh88 your totally right, no matter how good your susoension is it comes down to ridder skill. Better suspension simply separates the guys of equal skill and conditioning.

Hey guys, I have a couple of comments. First, lets make peace and simmer. I come on here to do some reading and maybe learn a thing or two. With so many personal comments its hard to get any learning done. I think that when discussions get out out of hand it is time to get back to basics and clear some things up. So, some basics; 1. Shocks are valved. 2. This means that there are internal "valves" of different sizes that regulate oil flow 3. These reside on the shaft with oil on both sides of the valves. 4. As the shock moves the oils passes through the vavle. 5. The smaller the hole the more force is requiered to move the shaft. So, without springs on the shock the wheight of the quad alone would compress the shock forcing oil through the valve and would bottom out. In this simple sentence lots of things are happening. All of which pertains to force and geometry. The way the weight of the quad is distributed from front to back. The angle of the shocks. The length and posission of the shocks. Wow, that's lots of stuff. We also need to take into effect the wheight and temperature of the oil within the shock. Now add springs to the shock to keep the quad up and then add the weight of the rider with ridding gear and ridding style and we have many many more variables. Simple things like total weight and more complex things like how far forward a rider has to be on the seat through a corner to provide traction to the front tires. I can go on and on about the variables. Back to some basics; 6. Valving is dependent on the springs that are paired to the valves. 7. Length of the shock and the angle of the shock change the force applied to the shock, and therefor change the valving. Where am I going? Well, I said all this to prove that the valves are the foundation of the shock and therefor the suspension system as a whole. It's kinda like the "building your house on a good foundation thing". Start with poor valving and no amount of compression and rebound tunning will get you a great ride. So, I'd like to say that Elka is the leader in suspension sales and service. I say suspension and not shock because there whole philosophy is not to sell someone a shock but a suspension package. They understand the "build your house on good foundation" moto. They want to valve a shock for your particular set up. These are not off the shelf. Each shock is built to get you a valving system that matches your set up. No one should complain about this. No one. They try their best to build you a shock that will work for you. There are complex mathematics involved that none of us can come close to dulicating to build shocks. Think of all the variable I mentioned above before mentioning springs. Now think about a-arms, like lenght +2 etc., and angle. Now with srpings we have sag, free sag, spring size and positioning, and on and on. A company could simply build huge amounts of shocks all with the same valve set up. Does Elka build the PERFECT shock every time? NO WAY! Do they try there best? FOR SURE! As many people on here have stated that they have filled out extensive forms and talked at lenght to people at Elka about their requierments. This is a top notch company providing excelent customer service with the sole intention of building you the best shock for you. That's awsome! If you get it and it's totally wrong, which is highly unlikely but possible, I'm possitive that they will fix it for you. All this talk about a company comming out to "watch you ride" is absolutely ridiculous... come on! If somebody is lucky enough to know a shock builder or has the cash to pay someone like Noleen to build their shocks with valving of their choice, go for it. Take this into account. Elka has a R&D team commited to building the best shocks possible for their racers, eg. Natalie. Guys like this ride a shock then tell Elka what to do to the valving to make it better "for him". Then Elka makes adjustments. This goes back and forth, hence the name R&D. Do you not think that Elka learns what is requiered. O.k, you have the exact same set up as him, same TRX, same Roll arm etc., and tell this to elka but also say that your a beginer MX racer that wheighs 210lbs, do you not think that they are capable of interpalating what is requiered for your valving. Of course they can. What is my point here? They truly try their best. Any comments appreciated.

Hey guys (and girls), I actually own and race a long travel front end for the Banshee and here is my review. First off, the kit is expensive and really only recommended for someone who wants to compete at a high level of racing. For the average dude that rides trails and the odd sand pit, your spending a lot of money for just playing around. I have the Janssen LT +3, +1 with Elka quad rate compression and rebound adjustments. I am also running an Elka dual rate rear shock with rebound and compression and a +4 axle making this quad a full (legal) 50" wide. Here is the link to the kit, take note of the price: CLICK HERE Mine were slightly more because I upgraded to quad rate as opposed to triple and got rebound adjustability which is a must. Here are some photos; I would also like to say that If you are planning to install this front end I would not do it unless you have a +4 axle. I will tell you how this thing handles with a stock swing arm. I am in the process of installing a -1 LSR swing arm and will post pics and a review as soon as I get some seat time. Why go with -1 as opposed to -2? Many reasons. First off look at the specs. The Banshee's stock wheelbase is 50.4 inches, remember that this is without the +1 forward aftermarket a-arms. So, with a -1 swing arm you maintain the 50.4 inch wheelbase, all that you've done is shifted the balance to the rear. Guess what the wheelbase is of the YFZ450? You guessed it, exactly 50.4 inches. So again, I wouldn't recommend going with the +1 forward a-arms without going with -1 swing arm. If you did you would just be exagerating the heavy front end of the Banshee. O.K. about the ride. When they were first installed and I went out for a little jaunt my first impression was that it was harder to steer, which it was. Why? because I just widened my front end by 6 inches. At slow speeds the heavier steering is quite noticable. Imagine the differnce between steering a front end that is 50" wide (which mine is) to a front end that is say 24". 24'" is absurd but I used a real small number just to prove a point. I must also say here that I run a Denton 7 position steering stabilizer. Now, at speed, once dialed in, this Banshee is crazy stable. I mean I am able to charge very hard into the roughest stuff with amazing confidence. The front end turned this Banshee into a different machine. Remember too that this thing sits a measly 7 1/4" off the ground and has 5 degrees of camber, the stability and speed at which you can take corners is out of this world. Bump steer! With my particular set up there is barely any. Let's clarify something here; bump steer occurs because the spindles are not in alignment with the ball joint at the end of the tie rod, and in line with the direction of travel (heim joint at a-arm). This might sound confussing but think of it this way; When your tire hits a bump, it was initially tavelling forward, now it wants to move up out the way of the bump. On a stock front end the a-arms can only move up along the line of the pre-set castor. On a stock banshee there is not enough castor to allow the tire to move along it's intended path which creates binding, this happens because the tire has to go up but wants to go up AND back. So, to reduce bump steer or eliminate it completly find a casor adjustment that is in line with the travel of the spindle and a-arm. Mine is 4.5 degrees. If you look at the first picture you can see that the tie rod is a t the same angle as the a-arms, the picture dosn't show the angle to be the same because it is not taken from level, but you get the idea. This is very favorable for minimizing bump steer. Now look at the agle of both the a-arm and tie rod on a stocker, see what I mean. The a-arms are specifically designed to have these components in line. I have no idea what all the talk is about, truely. A LT set-up will not increase bump steer or exagerate it, it's only more travle. Bump steer is the direction of this travel, which Janssen has taken into consideration and modified when building there arms. On the contrary, you have infinite adjustments to eliminate it or tune it out, compensating for your fram mounts. This set up absorbs all hits from nice even whoops to very rough eneven tracks and large landings all with very limited feedback in the bars. There will always be problems with arm pump with a Banshee because of the uneven power delivery of the 2 stoke powerplant. And yes there will be more bump steer than a YFZ, but has nothing to do with LT and everything to do with the frame. As you can see in the last picture I installed a LSR +2 +1 anti vibe steering stem and Flexx bars along with quality Spider grips to help minimize the strain on the arms when pushing this thing to it's limits. There is one negative to my set-up without a -1 swing arm. This problem is a combination of things. The problem is that I would get light steering in tight corners, the proper term for this is "squatting". What I mean is that on 180 degree turns on a MX track I would have to fight to get front tire traction by letting of the throttle (BAD). And yes I know how to corner. I use front brakes to compress the front end and get maximum front tire traction comming into the corner then transfer my wheight to the rear upon initiation of the turn to gain traction and accelerate hard comming out. The light steering is due to the following conditions. I am a 200 pound rider, the Banshee's rear end geometry is condusive to heavy sag, and the +1 forward a-arms stretch the front end out to a location that is difficult to put weight onto the front tires. I made numerous changes to the front end including running zero toe in, light first spring positioning, and a lower front end ride height all to no avail. It was improved but still not to my liking. The -1 swing arm will cure this in many ways. First off it will make the rear end act a little stiffer and reduce the amout of sag because of it's position. To say all this in an easier way would be to say that it will minimize the "squatting". It will also bring the axle in closer under my weight. You may say, this will agravate the problem, but actually it will help it, let me explain. A shock is able to handle a weight that is distributed straight down on it better than on the is applied when it is on an angle. It's not that the shock is better stright up and down, it is that the wheight of the quad and rider is distributed to it with less force. I sure am writing lots, I just love talking about suspension set-up. Back to the LT set up. Is it a true LT? Yes. Do you gain as much travel as a YFZ LT set-up? No way. Why? Because of the front end geometry. What I mean by this is that the mounts for the a-arms at the frame are set further apart than say a YFZ or 250R. My set up runs a full 19 inche shock like the YFZ LT but provides less travel becuse of the position of the frame mounts. People tend to confuse shock length with wheel travel. So in a way, and I think this is where there is lots of negatives written about the LT for the Banshee, you are not getting as much bang for your buck with a LT set-up for the Banshee. Now, this is of course "with respect to" other quads. If a guy was to spend 2 grand on a LT for a Banshee and the guy spent 2 grand for a LT on a YFZ, the guy with the YFZ bought himself an inch or two more that the guy with the Banshee. But, the Banshee was still increased to a full 10+ inches. Now, not to offend anyone here, remebering that I race a LT front end, for someone to say that an LT set-up on a Banshee is useless or a waste of money is highly mistaken. To me it is all about taking a machine and making it the best machine you are capable of. Whould I benifit from a Laeger chassis? You bet. Can I afford or want to go that route? No way. With this Janssen front end I beleive that I have made my quad handle to the upper limit of its capabilities, the only thing that needs work now is my physical conditioning and more practice. Any comments or questions are appreciated. I don't claim to know everything about this and I am always trying to learn more. The more I can learn, the more I know, and the better I will be!

You bet, would like -1 or -2 but just don't have the cash.

+3 +1 Here's the web site: GO HERE

Hey man, Here is a list, I'm sure I'll forget something... Elka quad rate fronts rebound and compression Elka dual rate rear Janssen long travel A-arms Hiper carbon fiber bead lock's ITP MXR4's 20x6X10 - 18X10X9 Denton steering stabilizer Galfer brake lines font and rear Moose racing brake lever Moose racing throtle (not pictured, new) Roll Design brake pedal (race) Roll Design shift lever (race) ASV clutch lever Acerbis hand guards Tag bars Motion Pro tether Tag metal risers RIS Design front bumper Aluminum grill Carbon fiber tank guard RIS gas cap Modquad breather Custom built key under seat Custom light switch uder seat Pro design air filter adapter UNI filter Air box lid on Jetted Trinity stainless steel pipes Trinity aluminum silencers Trinity cool head Stock cylinders Mild porting Carbon fiber dual stage reeds Duncan gripper seat cover Durablue +4 axle Renthal chain 15/41 gears AC Race Pro peg nerfs (1inch lower 2inches back) Pivot works bearing set for rear end UM performance skid plate Alba rear brake block of plate RIS pipe hangers Chozen oil dip stick case saver Modquad Stator cover Modquad case insert Modquad water pump cover Chozen brake resevoir cover Chozen master cover I think that's about it... I have two parts on order, a set of Fasst flex bars and a Roll anti-vibe stem This should really help cut down of the fatigue, I'm 6 foot so the hight will help too.

What do mean? explain...

FUNNY warriorman Here is my Elka / Janssen set up.