rx7500hpt2

I don't have the shocks yet this started as a small inexpensive project, now I need probably 3x as much money allocated towards it. Eighty percent of the bike is chromoly, I ran out so I used a little thicker walled mild steel. Just lots of finishing work left (gussets and supports). I also made my own spindles. Got the idea at the sandsports supershow.

thanks for the info, I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.

I'm building my new banshee as a dune quad because thats basically the only place I use it. I fabricated a frame that is 4 in narrower and 1in longer up front, the arms are +5-+1 over stock or 50in wide. I'm going to run elka 19in longtravel coilovers. Now to the question. What would be a good swingarm/shock combo in the rear? I can't find any comparisons between a link and no-link setup. I've heard a no-link shock may be longer thats all I know. I'm not building a dragster, bumps, whoops and jumps are what I'm concerned with.

I have a 98. Its a honda you can't go wrong. Dam good motor in my opinion I've put v force reeds and a phathead on it. Torquey and smooth.

I'm in the process of building a complete frame, a-arms, spindles,steering stem, and maybe a swingarm. I'm building an mx/duning style frame like a gas gas/ 250r. I'm making spindles like what they use on sandcars. If you have the spare time, access to the equipment and a little know how it is doable. I have welding equipment, bender, notcher and prep equipment but access to a mill and a lathe is almost essential. I work at a machine shop so I can make all those threaded collars, spacers and bushings. Buy chassis engineering by herb adams this book goes over the basics of suspension design.

trinity is a rip off. I would never bring anything in for them to work on. go somewhere else you'll be better off.

The 465 vibrates more than a cr500. The cr500 is a more modern better balanced motor but it still vibrates alot, a 465 vibrates like crazy. Ive put a 465 in a quad frame. The frame started to crack in numerous spots, your hands and feet would go numb quick, it was worse the higher you reved it. A 465 is not that bad as a bike, but from experience I would not try to put the motor in anything else.

Stay away from the yz465. It will vibrate way to much and probably blow head gaskets left and right.

In stead of getting all the separate parts you could try to find a whole rz bike. I picked one up for $600. I just rebuild the motor and dropped it in.

I live in CM. Not sure on the mileage but it takes about 3.5 to 4 hours going through the desert, or 3 to 4 going a different mountain way. It all depends on the traffic.

I used whatever grease I had on the shelf, moly something. My head gasket was three pieces of metal too, it was made by vesrah. Its one gasket don't break it apart.

Try a hair dryer to heat the sticker up. It will peal easier. Laquer thinner will work to remove glue.

Mine are worn and probably need to be replaced. Another bad ebay buy. Sudco wants $61 a piece for chromes. The stock carbs don't look so bad after all.

I think I figured it out. I need stiffer springs on the slides. The high idle is the slides feathering slightly open. When I twist the throttle sometimes they will feather and sometimes they'll fully close. I took the slides off and slide them into the carb and they move freely, no sticky spot. My throttle cable is brand new and moves freely. So I've got to find some stiffer springs. Who sells spings?

Thats what I mean man the the slides are all the way closed. I put a little slack in the cable and the idle screws are backed off, the slides are diffinitely all the way down. The only air the motor is getting when it idles is from the air screws. If I close the air screws it will die.

I went up to the 45p 1 turn out on the air screw and it still idles high. I thought their would be a big difference going from a 38 to 45. I guess I'll throw 50's in.

You should use 1 inch tube .90 wall. Thats what I used. You're going to need some basic fab tools too. A notcher is a must.

Oh ya even with the idle screws closed it will idle high with the air screws opened. I don't have any air leaks.

I put these on with 145 mains and 38 pilots. The problem is the air screw. If the air screw is completely closed it runs perfect and I can get it to idle with the idle screws. but if I ever so slightly open up the air screws it starts to idle high and idles down weird. The more I turn them out the worse it gets, 1 to 2 turns is usually the best for any other bike I have but with these carbs its horrible.

Do you have to go up or down with the main jet size? With power reeds I had to go down 1 size. But these are carbon fiber and completely different.

You can rev gears 1-3 out further. I like it, I'm running a 12-42 gear ratio now and its still fast.

Boyeson power reeds work good, I noticed a difference. For the price try them out.

I'm using the stock regulator and its before the battery. Laserstars directions said to use 12 gauge wire. All my lighting wire is 12g but the regulator has 16 gauge coming out of it on the battery end and the 3 16 gauge wires coming out of the stator end. I was thinking this could be a problem, too much load on the smaller wire and fuse. Are aftermarket regulators expensive?

The motor, wiring harness, stator is off an 85 rz350. The stator puts out 225watts ive been told. I used a relay and hooked direct power up to the battery and secondary power to the switch coming from the original lighting wires on the harness. I basically wired it like you would wire some hellas on your truck. The fuse that popes after about 1/2 hour to and hour of the lights being on is the 20amp main fuse coming off the power regulator/rectifyer to the battery.

Does anyone have wiring diagrams or information or know any links. Having trouble with 100w lazerstars, they are wired in and work but they blow fuses. rz350 with battery.