dirt-riceburner

Just got done installing all new rear axle: LSR axle, carrier, bearings, and hubs. Anyway, the problems is the wheels don't seem to turn as freely as before. I packed the carrier and bearings with lots of grease. The axles nuts are not too tight and the brakes were off just to test the spin. I even loosened the chain a bit to see it helps. Seems before I was able to spin the wheel with one hand w/ the wheels off the ground and it would rotate at least once around. Now it may get a quarter turn. Any suggestions?

I've been using Castrol 20-50 for 6 years now and no problems. So far, I'm only on my 2nd set of clutch and the basket and gears look absolutely look brand new. I usually change oil after 3 rides.

After you clean the pipes, dry it and spray it with wd40 and wipe it down.

I got some real nice, never used chrome ones I can sell you (4 bolts). I've used the same one on my IMS Roll Design footpegs and it works great. If you're interested, PM me.

I just got Cascade 2 into 1 carb setup couple of weeks ago. Before, I had stocks only. I did have to do some minor jetting; dropped one clip position and screwed in a half turn on the mix. So far after two rides, I feel like I lost a little at the bottom end but after that, it just pulls. And it pulls very hard all the way up the gears. The others things that I like is the intakes. It's polished and it looks sharp. The single carb is less crowed under the seat so it makes it nice and easy to work the carb. No more sync. If I was to rate the cost/value factor, I'd say 7 out of 10 (10 being great value). I hope this helps.

There's a six sided head on top of the carb cap that you adjust. You need to play with both of them to adjust so that they are sync. You can purchase a tool to help it to sync but save the money and listen very closely and you can hear it close. It'll tick. If they are not synced, you'll hear two clicks. Adjust until you hear one. Not hard to do.

Trail porting generally is the cheapest compared to other porting. I had mine done at RB racing. He is one of the most inexpensivest and does great job with fast turnaround. He can also tell you what would be recommended for your type of riding and all the post porting set up. His number is 517-388-3662. I don't know where you are but I sent it UPS and got it back all in one piece.

Dang, whatcha gonna do, climb trees? I wouldn't go lower than 13. The smaller the front, the harder it is on the chain. I'd go with 13's and keep the 41s in the back. You'll feel a big difference from stock. But then again, 14/44 would even be better.

I had the same problem. The spring and the ball was rusted closed. Take it off and get a new one. It's only a couple of bucks for a stainless one. You can buy them at the local boat supply store for stainless. Make sure to get the stainless otherwise it'll rust fast and you'll have the same problem.

Why not just put in a 13 tooth up front? It's cheap, easy and makes a helleva difference in the trails.

You know that one stinger is about an inch longer than the other , right?

I have a set of T-5 silencer with stinger for sale. They work great but too loud for my area (got a ticket). They have no dings or scratches. There is a very small rust mark where the stinger bolts to the silencer; nother major and it won't hinder performance or immediate damage. It can probably be buffed out. You can have it for $150 delivered (in the States). Want pic? E-mail me and I can send it to you until I figure out how to do it on BHQ. [email protected]

I have toomey t-5 stingers and silencers. The silencers were repacked 1 ride ago. There are no ding and very small spot of rust where the stinger bolts to the silencer. It's very minor and probably can be buffed out. You can have all of it for $150 shipped. I don't have pictures yet but will have it in a day. I'll send them to you if you are interested. Write me back if you want the pics.

Did you get 'em yet? If you still need a pair, I have it w/stinger. Let me know and I can also get you pics.

You still one? I got one off of 99. In good condition.

Actually, I had just pulled the hush kit off of my g/f's Shee and she says it semed to run much better. I don't know if it really did run better or she just likes the sound betterand thinks it runs better. When you say to re-tune, are you saying I gotta mess with the jetting?

I got a ticket today for having too loud of exhaust. I was riding over the weekend at Florence, OR and got pulled over by the local sheriff. He tested my T-5's and I blew 105 db; 12db over the limit. They normally give you 10db over and I still went over. My girlfriend also got tested and she hit the max level for a warning. She too has the same exhaust setup. Anyway, after a $140 ticket, I need to quiet it down without sacrificing performance of course. I did repack w/ FMF spaghetti looking material and I can't tell any difference. Any know how's?