dajogejr

True...but there are quotes in there about breaking it in. You will find it varies just as much. Some will say, mix more oil, keep the RPMs varying for the first tank of gas, and don't go wide open throttle for more than a few seconds. Others (myself included) will say heat cycle it a couple times, check the torque specs....and beat the living tar out of it.... And it varies between those ways. You will find there are lot of opinions on this and other boards. Obviously, they vary from one extreme to the next. There is no one clear cut way for anything anymore... I use what's worked for me from my years of experience....and I'll stick to that...just as anyone else should from their own experience. Sorry for the open ended response...but, with a little searching, you'll find I'm dead on about no one being dead on...

I gotta be honest, I got the UPP chain slider kit from Magic. Comes with both rollers, swingarm slider, front and rear. I don't remember either of the chain rollers being bigger than the other....and I do remember checking... This is interesting....

Boy....does this all sound familiar.... I've had to have the head surface and base surface decked on my cub. It was sucking air at the bottom, and leakind coolant at the top... Both surfaces were uneven out of the box...to my dismay. Got it sealed up....and my flywheel had bad (broken) magnets inside. Ran GREAT on the dyno...took it out in real world...(rainy, wet and muddy) and had some more problems. I'm in the middle of getting bigger carbs now, same as you....and getting everything in the ignition re-tested and Ohm'd out. Also...my squish out of the box was a little tight. You may want to have that checked and measured as well... I'm not trying to start a war of words, but...for a motor that was supposed to be bolt on and go...it's been more bolting on and not enough go... Sorry I can't be of much help...but I'm going to keep an eye on this one...and know you're not alone in this one brother! Best of luck!!

Just do a search...this is a recent thread...and as you can see, opinions vary. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=62208

Well said. You could theoretically gear it to do 120MPH....then first feels like 3rd...and it won't even think about pulling 4, 5th or 6th... Last time I was at the track with my bud's shee...it did 74 in bone stock form. We took the front fenders off...and it did 77. I thought that was funny....

Ell... What's the chance those intakes will fit some 35PWKs? Got a pic?

Ah....to each their own. I put a thin, thin coat of 2 stroke oil on the cylinders to ease the pistons into the cylinders. I also put a few more drops on all the bearings for the crank and rods as well. IMO...no need to overkill... The deal in the end is...if it works for you...why change?

See....all about opinions... 96drag...I'm not discrediting or putting you down. I'm merely stating my own opinion... I've been of the school of mix it how you're going to run it. Heat cycle it 3 times for about 10 minutes or so...and recheck the torque on the cylinders and head. Then...beat it like you stole it. I've seen pictures of pistons in two identical bikes, one broken in as the manual says...easy first tank of gas or so, varying RPMS, richer premix. The second based on what I've put above. After a season on each motor...the motor broken in by manual specs was starting to get a little bit of blowby past the rings. The other was picture perfect. Same track time, etc. I'll try and dig up the article....it's very interesting... Again, stating my opinion...

Very well put, and I couldn't agree more... Ok...I'd rather have the 450...but, a Raptor feels more top heavy, but it is a fine choice as well!!

The hot rods (wiseco) cranks are just fine. Just have a reputable builder re-weld 'em. Jeff from FAST racing sold me the crank and welded that baby good! He's my first call for just about every banshee need (he won't loan me parts or extend me credit...however.... ) There are plenty of other good builders here, as well. Hard to answer your question about trinity...as someone else posted here a bit back. They are a large company. If you got some slacker/part timer/rookie...welding your crank, it could be an issue. If one of their senior guys did it...you should be fine. I've read more bad about them than good here, and on Planet Sand. However....it's not fair for me to bad mouth them or give them a bad name because I personally have never dealt with any of their products or engines. So...sorry I'm no help, but...just trying to be honest.

You won't notice any performance difference from truing and welding. They are strictly reliability measures. Welding prevents the crank from seperating at the journals, and truing it makes sure it is straight...within a very small tolerance, like .002 or so. Not sure on that exact measurement. Stock banshee cranks have problems once you start pushing some ponies...I'd say you're already there! Some aftermarket cranks claim to be welded...but, as many have found out...it's a good idea to have a skilled builder re-weld them... My builder said he's seen a few come undone...and I've read the same here...as well as other forums.

Aside from the above mentioned gas and oil...(did you mean 87 octane...or 97 as you typed? 97 is more than fine)... You should have your crank checked....and make sure your machine shop is boring those cylinders to specified clearances... Always bring your pistons to your builder so they're correctly matched. Vitos used to make their own cranks....a while back. Now they pretty much repackage and distribute Wiseco cranks. Their factory welds are dung, and any reputable builder will tell you to have the crank re-welded out of the box for strength...with most of them recommending stronger bearings for them as well. TZ or RZ bearings are the ticket... How do your spark plugs look? I'd try some tried and true Wiseco SuperLites, too...just for the hey of it.

Hey...sorry I can't help with jetting on those carbs. Getting some PWKs next week...can't wait. However, in reading your mods again...you're missing out on some power, as you already know. When it's time for a top end...you might want to think about getting that crank welded...as well as a good port job. With all those mods, porting would be icing on the cake and really wake that bike up. Since you already have a great list of parts...I'd just tell your builder what you have...and they can port into that!

Oh...I'm sorry. He's at 2300 feet, even less compression with 22cc domes. But...don't take my word for it, take Dave Noss' word for it. http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm But...even then, you probably know more than him, too. He's only been doing it for years...so what does he know. No way he can match your wit and knowledge...this being your first banshee, and first serious dealings with a two stroke. Hell...if that user is at 118 to 115PSI, he can probably advance the timing +4 AND run 89 octane gas... Unless his jetting is seriously off....he'll be just fine with pump 91 octane gas and +4 or +5 timing. Again, go back to your car fourms...leave the toys to the big boys...

You're such a joker... If you knew anything, which...we already knew you don't....you'd realize: 22cc is the stock dome size for a banshee. At or near sea level, that provides anywhere from 120 to 135PSI. Safe for 91 octane pump gas. Since he is futher above...like 1300 ft or so...that lowers compression even further. Since compression has more to do with the need for race gas than small advances in timing (yes...read that slow so it sinks in, SMALL advances in timing) this user is safe. You do know these bikes can run on 87 or 89 octane if jetted properly and left bone stock, right? Oh...nevermind, you're the expert...you already know that. An air fuel meter is another good way to tune. However...the majority of those are found in a dyno...in a room...right, smart guy? So...that dyno doesn't account for other elevation changes, which...clearly you're the expert on...or temperature changes. Actually...you can use an air fuel meter on a two stroke...jackass. Again, showing what you don't know. Wait...let's backup. First, you're telling me that the best way to tune is to use an A/F meter, then...you're telling me "to your knowledge" you don't know if you can use them on a two stroke. Well...smart guy, which is it? A/F is good, but...I stand by my statement, plugs don't lie. Plugs don't compensate...they tell the truth. Oh...and to answer your other question, here you go...the air fuel ratio changes as the engine idles, accelerates and decelerates. Do I know the exact ratios it should be at? No... Do I know the approxamate number? Yep. Do I own a dyno or A/F meter? Nope...do you? Guess it doesn't matter...since to your extensive knowledge, they don't work on a two stroke. Obviously, you've never been in a dyno room or watch one run. Again, due to the controlled circumstances of a dyno room vs. real world conditions....plugs are the true answer...smart guy. Yep...I've got a job. However...I was thinking of switching careers...it seems correcting you and laughing at your ignorace seems more promising at this point. Again, I'm here all day...every day. C'mon back some more...so you're clear, the others are laughing at you...not with you.

There are several people that will agree... However, I've talked to a lot of reputable engine builders...the majority will tell you stay away from more than 50:1... Keep in mind, a lot of people who race redo top ends every few races, or every season. This is considered normal maintenance...and they do it primarily to keep that "performance edge"... Of course, if your name is Carmichael, Reed, Stewart...etc., you don't pay for your top ends, oil, etc., and your mechanic does all your maintenance...between heats, motos...etc., with an endless budget... If you do a search here, you will find the majority run 32:1 or 40:1. Those on alcohol run 24:1 to 32:1...on average. I'm not saying anyone is right or wrong...but I personally like to stay in the flow of "average"...

With stock cc domes and that elevation, you should be able to run +4 to +5 no issues. If I had to guess...you're probably around 120 PSI or so...way below the need for high octane gas. Just make sure your jetting is correct...

I've been thinking about that myself. I have a +6 over swingarm...and a stock rear shock that's seen it's better days. Snowmobiles traditionally are heavier sprung and more tightly valved...cause, let's face it...they're heavy... It would pretty much revolve around: Length of shock from eye to eye Position of rezzie (clearance) Spring weight Valving Not to mention, you'd have to figure in any machining work, etc as well. As I'm sure you've read, YFZ modded front shocks for a banshee is a hot item now. While some are against it, most seem to like it just fine. This year, I'm working on the motor and drivetrain... End of this year and the off season, I'm going through the suspension, plastic, etc. Most will argue (rightfully so) that suspension should be first...I just chose to build a motor first.

I'm going to generalize this statement. Today's oils protect better and burn cleaner, period. Unless you're running crisco in a can...or alcohol, 20:1 is pretty much un-needed. 32:1 is just fine for most oils. I try to stay away from 50:1 and 100:1... I personally run Super M @ 40:1 with 110 Leaded Race Gas... I don't know what details you're looking for exactly...again, this is pretty much a general statement.

Hesitate or bog? Try this...get the bike right in the midrange of the RPMs. Pull the choke halfway...goose it. Gets better, richen the needle (towards the pointy end) gets worse...lean the needle (towards the blunt end)... Since it's an 87...if it hasn't been done in a while, probably a good idea to give the carbs a good ol tear down and cleaning, top to bottom... Did this just start...have you had the bike, etc? Do any other work lately?

If you mean K&N Pod filters (no airbox) start at 330 main. If you have a single K&N in the airbox, 300 and work your way down. FMF's like fat pilots from everything I've read...27.5 would be a good start...

Other than the drag strip...it was muddy...muddy...muddy... I rode my buddies shee there, though....so I was happy to bring it back to him caked up a little...:0

Mixing more oil in your gas is old school... Some people still live by it...most don't though... Mix the oil correctly, and do a plug check. Less oil in the gas will actually richen you jetting a tad. Unless you're going from 16:1 to 100:1....you probably won't notice MUCH difference. Mix it, ride it, chop the plug.

We went yesterday, 4 of us...the normal crowd. Probably 10 to 15 people or so. However...they had about 200 or so on Saturday...wish I could've made that one!!

Got it... Just got done riding an R and YFZ today. still working the bugs out of my cub motor... MY budy was nice enough to let me ride his banshee (stock, milled head and 2 into 1 pipe)..just to put around. He blew a crank bearing...he thinks...on his R. Just about everyone I ride with has an R, YFZ...and there's even a few 400EXs...