dajogejr

Yeah, but unless it says USFS approved, screen don't mean jack...'round here. They have the hush kit...shitty. They also make those that acutally replace the factory end cap. remove the snap ring and put them in place... I had clamp ons last year for my Toomey's...and I"m gonna reuse them for my RDZ pipes...you gotta run what you gotta run!

If you plan on putting any power out of it, your stock crank needs to be welded. They weld the bearing journals so they don't spin. Any reputable builder on this site can do that for you...I don't know if I'd trust a local machine shop with no experience in this.... PM Jeff @ FASTOYS...he did my 4mil wiseco hot rod crank, his welding looks damn good!

Good luck winding out 6th gear with just those mods in sandy trails... I'd bet if you got on hard pack ground or asphalt it'd be fine....Sand robs power big time, especially since 6th is geared so tall... Try winding out 5th until you can't anymore...and grab 6th...but, I bet it's just the sand robbing you!

What is your budget, and what kind of riding do you do? I'd bet you could get a stock bore, stock stroke cub motor and get your stock crank reworked for the same or less than that alba kit and probably have more power....

List mods, as well as gearing and rear tire size....and were these hard pack or sandy trails...

If you want a set of used ones for backup...I think I still have mine in the garage... You come and pick 'em up (in MI) and they're yours if you want 'em or they fall through...

I can only speak from my experience.... I have 35PWKs. I HAD Toomeys, which...look similar in design to the FMF routing. I have angled K&Ns I bought from FAST Racing. No matter what I did, short of building long intake tracts like you see above, they would not clear the pipe. I even had a thing steel strap holding the pipe against the frame. Once I saw the pipe design of the RDZ/Shearer inframes, I was sold. Not only are they a great pipe for my application...they actually put some thought behind them. Now....I don't think you can run them with a stock airbox...but...that's the breaks I guess.... Ironic...if you look at the link for the heat wraps that I posted, they are actually shown on the RDZ/Shearer design...which, don't need the wraps since the go up and over the carbs and filters.... But, for display purposes and picture purposes...I undertand 100% why they took photos like that to show off their wraps...

99shee...I'm not trying to sound like a jerk, but...I'd bet my money that long of an intake tract is hurting a little performance on that bike... I think the heat shields are a better choice...

Do a search...this has been covered. In a nutshell, you have a few choices. Use a spacerplate and 795 series wiseco pistons for the easy way... The right way to do this is have the cylinders bored if needed, the porting needs to be matched for the longer crank stroke, and the head has to be cut so the crown of the piston doesn't smack it... If you buy a Wiseco (Hot Rod) crank, have any reputable builder reweld the crank. The factory welds have known to go... Call Jeff @ FAST Racing....he'll hook you up.

They're great pipes for drag/dune motors. Those prices on that site are nothing special, to be honest. I know Jeff at Fast and Jim at Passion will sell them at that price or less. You could probably go to Shearer pipes direct and get 'em for that... Good choice. I'm not a fan of the Rockets, I tried 'em, didn't like 'em...but, that was on a stock motor, even though on the site they claim "works great with a stock motor"...ha ha.. I would never get them for my cub, only because of the big problems by the previous owners of the company...there are a few guys that run 'em on this site and really like 'em. For the fit, finish and design...my RDZ/Shearer inframes are hard to beat....

Kinda what I was thinking....still, tin cans welded together are better than stock...

Just quoting him...I questioned it too? I can explain off and emergencies... If your daddy would've known how you'd turn out... He'd have gotten "Off" mama cause it would've been an emergency not to have had you....

Sparks coming out the exhaust is not a good thing....that CAN be part of the piston, head or cylinder starting to come apart. You need to get a quality compression tester and test both sides before you do anything else. If one side is ready to let loose, save the money now before it really lunches the motor... For the price of a head gasket and coolant, I'd even go so far as to remove the head and visually inspect the tops of the pistons, the head, and look through the intake and exhaust ports at the piston skirt....

If it's not leaking, and it's definately not a stress point...JB Weld it. I had an old LT250R quadracer that popped a chain, leaving a penny size hole in the case. Back when I was 15 and poor...I took some copper and JB Weld, cleaned the surface off all oil and greast and JB'd it. Held up fine for years after.... JB weld is great for stuff like this, but it's critical both surfaces are clean!!

If you're just replacing the top end, and the jetting was correct before the rebuild...you DO NOT need to rejet. It will be a 352...don't expect any major performance improvements by the 6cc's you just got Since you're taking the crank out anyways, get all new bearings and have it welded for strength/reliability.... Depending on your elevation...I'd probably say your a little lean on your mains. Those pipes wanna breathe, big time. You're running Shearer's on a stock, unported motor? How do they work for you?

Ditto...same here. Although...sometimes I'll use Kerosene instead for the Winter, it heats you better for those cold winter nights (which, I'm sure night is accustomed to.) To be honest, night...I didn't think it was possible to find anyone more ignorant than you. However, after seeing the advice given to you by your friends...I see ignorace has strength in numbers by your part of town.... ::

You can make some intakes...or, just get heat sheilds from Cascade to go over the stinger tubes: http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...ORE_DEPT_ID=168

wild... PM machwon on here. He sells a kit on ebay, but he'll also sell you one outright. You could probably drive all over, use your gas, and piece one together by going to home depot, lowes, etc., or...you could literally spend a couple extra bucks and just get the kit that works. His name is Bob of R&B racing...good guy, he'll hook you up. Daj..

Shit...I just gave mine away. A kid was adamant about trying it....cause his buddy had one. I just told him to pay for the ride...which I think I made .78 off of. So, Technically....I did sell it. That paid for 2 or 3 cigarrettes...or, about 2/3 of one 12 ounce beer, so...I guess I can't complain! :yelrotflmao:

JUST gotta ride it now, be careful. Those stock carbs can be a pain once they get a little dirt in 'em, but..they're actually very efficient. They rev pretty quick in nuetral. Don't forget, you have two small pistons working together...not one big one...

Dlow... You can also check out Magic Racing or Vito's performance. You'll need: new carb caps New cable Brass idle screws Drill and tap. Some advice for ya: COMPLETELY dissasemble each carb, one at a time. Place a piece of wood in the carb when you're drilling it...so when you bust through you don't knick the other side of the throat. Use a lot of WD40, PB Blaster or other light oil when running the tap, 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn out. Aluminium cuts pretty easy. When done, clean the piss out of the carbs, make sure you get all the metal shavings. One little bit can cause the carb to stick wide open...'nuff said. This kit has everything you need. http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...11&cat=0&page=1 As does this, same price: http://www.magicracing.com/TORS-Eliminatio...ee_p_0-731.html

There is dirt in the needle in seat, or...you bent the float to all hell and it's WAY up in the carb. My guess by your description is the latter... Remove the carb, remove the bowl, and flip the carb upside down. IF the bottom (pointing towards the sky flipped upside down) of the bowl is pretty level, it should be fine. The exact measurement is 21mm from the gasket surface of the bowl (minus gasket) to the top of the float...but, you can eyeball 'em pretty good. I'd almost bet when you turn it upside down...the float tab is smashed as such the float is way off...

What are your mods? Ported, bored, stock head, shaved head, aftermarket head?? 130PSI is about right for a fresh motor, stock...at or near sea level. My original motor in my 96 had 110 in each cylinder before I tore it down this year, and it didn't start great (normally took 8 or 10 kicks) but once warmed up, it still ripped. There's two rules of thumb on compression differences. 1 is 5 PSI of eachother, the other is 10% of each other. You're close to that....so, if this is a stock motor, head, porting...you're probably about due for a rebuild, but you might have a problem elsewhere as well... I personally don't think (given it's a stock motor) that the compression difference is such it'll run terrible or not idle...

TWILES...that's three posts in a row I've looked at where you've given inaccurate advice. If you can't get a banshee to idle with aftermarket pipes, you did something wrong, that's not just the way it is.... :: Dan, The best thing you can do is this. Either you do have an air leak, or your carbs are sticking... remove both carbs, and clean the bejesus out of them. The stock carb slide configuration sucks. Any tiny bit of sand or dirt passed through the filter can cause one or the other to stick. Remove the float, needle and seat, pilot and main jet. Clean all jets and passages real good. Clean the inside of the carbs where the slides go very carefully... Unscrew the choke, clean that as well. I normally use brake cleaner because it cleans great and dries very quickly. Remove each of the needles from the slides, and roll 'em. Make sure they're not bent at all, a bent needle can cause a stuck throttle, too... If you clean the crap out of both carbs, and this still happens, you may have an air leak. Have you sync'd your carbs properly too? That can cause erratic idle, but normally won't cause it to sky rocket RPMs. Start out with 300 mains, but...as TWILES said, you'll probably end up with 280 (ish) on the mains. This is if you're at or around sea level, 65 to 90 degree temps or so. You're gonna have the carbs apart, might as well change the jets now instead of later. Do NOT buy the DYNOJet kit...it's a waste. You can get better needles from Toomey (made by dynojet) or Vitos. These aftermarket needles will eliminate the lean spot in the middle of the RPMs. However, these wont' solve your problem at hand. Do you still have the TORS adjusters on there, by the way? Lastly, since you have the lid off, you do have a pro flow kit or other means that seals the carb to the box, right? Good luck!!

Say WHAT??? This guy has 35PWK carbs...his TORS are long gone. Read his sig. That would be the only thing that would cause bad spark at different throttle position... He's replaced everything in the ignition but the stator...and that alone wouldn't cause a misfire in only one of the cylinders, it would effect both. You have an airleak...period. Get the tester and save yourself money and trouble.... He never said he was losing spark, he said a cylinder was cutting out. If there is a leak in that cylinder, it will act up with a little bit of throttle, it won't burn the mixture properly, and the plug will be wet. Is it the left side cylinder, by any chance? If so, remove the flywheel cover and start the bike up. Warm it up...get some carb cleaner and spray the shit out of the boots, around the head, around the base of the cylinders, and behind the flywheel. I bet once you hit one of those areas, while idling, it starts to die down and will either stall or almost stall... Or you could just get a leak down tester, remove the carbs and pipes, and see for yourself. Either way..it's an air leak. that...or you have a rodent or something plugging up your exhaust pipe. You went to CPIs from FMFs...probably a 2 or 3 jump size in mains. You've tried different mains and it didn't make a lick of difference, right? I bet it probably starts right up, idles fine...free revs ok in nuetral, but you take it for a ride and it falls on it's face...right?