dajogejr

Yep...happy b-day... Hopefully you're out riding!!!

If you were going to put it back into a street bike, I'd probably keep the oil injection so you could just pull up to the pump... But, I agree with red. They make an oil injection block off kit for a blaster which MIGHT be able to be used on a RZ motor. If not, you can probably make your own. I would just premix as well!!

For 500 bucks I'll send you a personalized and signed picture of me holding my junk.... Thanks for the free bump....

Yep...it is...and my cub LOVES it...as long as you stay below 30 degrees or so of total advance, you're ok... However, once I switch to the booze for my motor, it's gonna have to be backed off a bit!!

One of the coils---SOLD (Penny's Banshee) Ignition Key Switch w/ Key---SOLD. (bansheerage) Headlight sold (banshee0044) Stock Head Sold (herbanshee)

Have fun!!! Make sure you get a chance to do a plug chop...at 370, I think you're way rich on the main... 330 to 350 is probably more like it!

Front and rear? I'll box 'em up and tell you on Monday. I'm guessing 10 to 15 bucks or so.

You've got PM.

Yep, very nice once $$. I always cut my vent hoses at a 45 degree angle, and then put an inch long slice on them as well. Makes it a LOT tougher to get them clogged up....

I borrowed by two spare coils to Sam and David... I only asked for shipping to them so they could test them... They each ended up having other issues...but, if they wanted to be jerks or screw me they had the perfect chance to. Neither did, and each of these guys promptly sent the parts back to me. It's this kind of trust that keeps this brotherhood alive....thanks guys. Hoping to do business with you again...

Count me in... I really like the new design of the site and your ambition on trying to turn this boat around for yourselves.... Whether you like or dislike a product, the one thing that is most important is accountability and trust... You guys sure are starting off on the right foot....keep up the good work. Have you guys thought about the "Loaner" set idea yet?

Just trying to clean out the garage AND help a fellow rider out for next to nothing. All this stuff is sold as is...and came off my 96 shee in working condition, regardless of the bumps, bruises or dirt it may have on it. I have 100% perfect feedback on ebay (redrider_1997) and here as well.... I'm up to offers, etc., and I ship out everything with Fed Ex Express saver, unless you want to pay a few extra bucks to get it quicker... I will email you any pics if you want some, and I always email OR PM you with a tracking number once it goes out. I prefer paypal, but will take cashiers check/money order. I've shipped the coils out to two guys before I even had the payment in hand...just trying to help out fellow riders (they ended up needing other repairs....coils are good.) Stock swinger with skidplate, straight... (No extra charge for the dirt... ) Make offer LOT of parts. Head lights, tail light, Ignition Key Switch w/ Key, Thumb Throttle Extender and stock fuel valve... Make offer on any of these. Stock Coils. 20 bucks shipped per coil. Front and Rear Shocks. These shocks do NOT leak, and are straight as an arrow. The rear is dirty due to a little chain lube a flying.... Off a 96 that sat unridden from 99 to 2005. I rode on them one year. The front springs have paint worn off due to outer wears being on them since about day 1. Open to offers....

Drain your oil and put in 1 3/4 quarts... You've got a TON of oil in that thing if it's coming out of the Actuator arm hole.

Welcome to the real dune quad site... I'm not going to comment on the jetting...it's hard to beat sred's advice on that. however...I'll throw my hat into the carb question ring. If you just plan on duning around and drag racing occasionally....yep, 1 into 2 carbs is great. Less maintenance, easier to work on, etc. But, if you're going to be doing more drag racing than duning, you will be missing out by going to a single carb setup. My man, you have got it made. With two shees, I'd have one for both. One for drag, one for dunes.... it doesn't get much better than that!!

A rule of thumb is one main jet smaller for every 1000 ft above sea level you go up... Just a rough guesstimate.... Depending on what your current compression is...and if you run race gas or not, you might be able to bump up your compression (1 cc dome size down to 19cc) to make up for some of the compression you're going to loose by getting "high"....

Turn the air screws out to 2.0 to 2.5 turns. IF this alone makes it all better, than go back to 25s. You need to check a few basic things, first... Choke tube in place? Bowls get switched? Carb slides in correctly? Do you still have the TORS on? With Pod filters, you're in the ball park... Timing plate and K&N Pods alone will have still been close with your old jetting.... Lastly...what did you set the timing to? And...what did you set the air gap at on the pickup/flywheel? I normally go .015 or so on that...

I think you're way rich on your pilots, especially with an airbox...and they don't make a 56 pilot that I know of. 50, 52, 55, 58 and 60.... Drop down to a 50, adjust your air screw and see if it helps.

I agree...best bang for the buck is the 4 mil. But a 7 mil is a waste when a 10's the same cost. Once you get a lockup and override tranny...any decent aftermarket basket will be just fine. Hinson makes a great basket, no doubt...but you can save money and spend it elsewhere...

That's 180 backwards... More timing is more bottom, less top. Less timing is less bottom, more top. I use Curve 3 on mine all day long...plus I have a timing plate set at 8 degrees as well. Wes...Curve 4 is stock. Curve 3 offers the most overall timing. Curve 1 starts the advance earlier in the RPM...but it tapers off as well. Curve 2 is just a slight bump... I say play with curve 1 and 3, see which you like the best. in 300ft sand drags, I ran my best times (not by much at all) with it on 3.

Sounds good... I hated to ask...but...your whole post seemed pointed towards getting it to idle, but nowhere do you mention the air screw or pilot jet. Just wanted to make sure you were headed in the right direction!!

Nothing is impossible... How much access/knowledge do you have when it comes to fabricating and welding is the key... Sure it'll fit...if you can fit a "busa motor into a shee frame, you can get a shee motor into a blaster frame...but is it worth it in the end is the question... I personally would buy a used shee frame, shave it...re'weld it and powder coat it, but it's your time and money. Of course it can be done... Considering how much shorter of a wheelbase a blaster is than a shee, a big old swingarm is gonna be a must right off the bat. And if you think Banshee suspension is terrible....I think it's night and day better than a blaster's.... Just a few things to consider... I'd like to see some pics if you do go through with it...should be a cool project!

Launch limiter...got it... I didn't read where this had that.... Best of luck! I'm pretty sure a Dyna CDI can be setup to do that, not sure of this...though.

You should never adjust the needles to make up for idle...they won't do a thing. Your pilot jet, air screw and idle screws handle idle tasks. I know you have the TORS removal kit, but...did you drill and tap the carbs, and use the threaded brass bullet screws. These screws set idle... Tell me you're not using the cable adjusters on the top of the carb caps for idle adjustment?? Sorry...I have to ask if these sound like dumb questions... 27.5 pilot jets are normal for aftermarket pipes and no air box. They will richen the slow speed/idle circuit, not lean it out. 25 is the stock pilot, 27.5 is the next step up. Which is what I think the doctor ordered as well. Make sure you get the long pilot jets for banshee sotck carbs, they are different than others. Do yourself a favor too, and put the needle back in the middle clip...

It's a trade off... With the snorkel and lid, you're getting your best protection against mud and water...but you're also the most restrictive. Do you ride in mud and water is the first question....

one step up (which...is what you have) on the pilots is fine. You may or may not have to lean the needle one clip (clip towards the blunt end)...with those VForce Reeds. Sometimes you do, sometimes you don't. Ride it...if it feels boggy or rich in the middle, lean out the needle once clip...