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Posts posted by dajogejr
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If I didn't just buy a new house, I'd pick this up in a heart beat. Smoking deal...but I can get dealer on repair. That's a big difference...
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Good guy and great seller here folks. AJ is a class act, no junk and straight up.
Good luck on the sales bro!
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Years ago, we'd do 35 to 50 mile loops with friends. It was an absolute blast.
But I gotta tell you... now a days, I'd pipe, air filter and jet a new 450 rather than beat myself up with 25 year old technology and suspension.
I'm well aware you can spend big coin on suspension after the motor on a banshee to help it handle better, but the newer 450s for trail and dune riding are better suited in my opinion....
Much less work, much more fun.
When it comes to trails and such, I'll take the Cadillac over the the Porsche.
Obviously...when it comes to drag racing...there's no question.
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As Tyler like to say when he posts something Discuss lol.
I should clarify what I said. I am not a track guy that is probably a better way to say it. Not really use to dealing with the alky motor and the big stroker stuff more just the small dune bikes. My riding is 85% dunes tree shots hill climbs and riding with the family and 12% racing at the hill. The other 3% involves me laying in the sand stuck under my banshee becasue I have crashed.
Yep...you're clearly not a drag racer. We spend 50% of the time working/tuning the bikes. 40% Jaw Jacking and BSing with buddies, talking smack, etc., and 10% actually riding.
You'd have to make a huge adjustment to join our crowd....
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Just to be clear dajogejr I am not starting a fight with you and I respect your knowledge I think I have told you that many times in the past but when it comes to duners I do know a fair amount about that side of this hobby.
No worries..it's all good. I know for a fact the guy tearing up the dunes on a small, OEM motor outweigh the alky burners at the strip probably 50 to 1.
But here's my point...to you.
You mention you're not a drag racer...more so a duner. But then in the very next few sentence you mention lining up against others.
Unless you're running a baja circuit in the dunes, you're still drag racing. Just not on flat ground with a fixed distance, lights and timers (in other words, a non-controlled enviornment).
I get what you're saying, we're not arguing, just discussing which is a good thing. No worries....
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Ya but then there are some like yourself who have had a motor built by 2 of the mentioned
Riddle me this.
How many have had the same purpose built and type/size built by more than one builder?
i.e.. Build a 10 mil cub to drag race only, one by HJR, one by Wildcard....
Apples to apples. How many people build the same motor twice, by different builders? .0001%?
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I always thought this same way. Sure your bike "rips" when you have nothing else to compare it to other than itself with FMFs and some pod filters
And a boost bottle....don't forget that.
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Hot damn that's some cranking compression.
Stroking, is this a known, good working and accurate gauge?
In my experience, a cheap or bad gauge reads low, but it could easily go the other way as well.
Just think how hard that thing would leave the line...then implode....
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I think these builder vs. threads are getting about as old as pipe and dyno threads...to be honest.
You're not getting any information other than popularity contest winners.
That's not a knock on HJR, Wildcard, Redline or any of the others. All do great work, reputable, etc.
Out of all the people recommending one or the other, ask them how many motors they've had build by ALL of them.
Not many, if any...can say all. Several even stated they haven't dealt with so and so....
Personally, I've had HJR do my old motor and it ripped. I can't tell you if it would've ran better, worse or indifferent in the others hands.
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No trucks guys, ATVs only ...... please pm me for address . Please do not post address on the forums. Also you must let me know your coming so that i have your name on the list.
Sorry dawg...lol. I edited my post and removed the addy.
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Please everything i own has n20 on it.lol
That's why it's all leaned out, deto'ing and ready to grenade. Now I get it. It is all your fault....
LOL
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Don't be hatin' MattSCSS, aka Matt Sucking Cock Since Saturday....
(Sorry best I could do with just a few minutes from quitting time...lol)
I'll be the first to tell you I'd get wiped up and down a coal hill, regardless if I brought the fastest rocket or slowest, non-tuned, leaned out and deto'd turd....it is their backyard and turf.
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Is that the day when you eill be done eith your period?
Sorry Brian...but that's the funniest damn thing I read all day....
Score
Joe 1
Stimbert Goose egg
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PM Joe2002 for the address please.
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I'd love to ride some coal hills one day...for sure. Even if it is with some "PA Fucks"...lol.
Being a holiday weekend, you'll probably see the bro crew at the dunes.
But we should set something up...maybe next year?
Gotta make a trip over here too, to the dunes as well. Turn about is fair play...
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As long as I'm not doing a cook that weekend, I'm in...
I will non-tune, lean out and detonate your motor so it's worthless.
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Good chance you're getting porting and will need to get bored/honed after.
Good porters will port anything, but if they have a preference, it's port than bore/hone, JUST IN CASE you have an uh oh moment and hit the cylinder, etc.
That being said...both are a good choice. Can anyone that used the SS pistons tell me they replaced good pistons with SS?
Afterall, if you had a worn set of pistons and rings and replaced them, it's going to run stronger regardless of the piston design...
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While I completely understand weight and rotating mass, that's one gear I don't think I'd mess with to be honest.
Rear sprocket, sure...but front, I'd leave it as is.
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Like i said I'm looking for the dumbass of the year award
Too late, somebody else beat you to it and you'd play the rest of the year catching up.
Take the domes off and leave everything else the same. While changing fuel from pump to 110 shouldn't require a jetting change, upping the compression and/or the timing will.
More timing and more compression cause more heat...fuel, raw unburnt fuel, actually cools the motor when the intake charge comes in.
So...more fuel could be needed, depending on how close to the fine edge you were before.
Two more things to double check. Make sure your flywheel is good. Remove it..shake it, make sure you don't hear anything. Normally a bad flywheel will cause you to break up, especially at higher RPMs.
Check your wires around the pickup coil...and check the air gap on both nubs on the flywheel for the pickup coil.
If you don't change anything else, other than just the domes and you're right back to running good like you were...you found the issue.
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picture all these guys doing the old circle with one another ...thats whats with the rainbow
You want the middle spot...we get it...
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Thanks for all of the great info Guys! I will check everything on the clutch side of things and then if its still no good I will look into splitting the cases, although I really hope I dont have to! I know the adjustment is lined up exactly with the mark on the case so I will adjust it a tad to the left and inspect everything while im in there. I did do the top end recently and had the crank seals and bearings replaced at a nearby yamaha dealer, I hope they diddnt fuck something up in the bottom end IF that was the case, do you guys know if dealers do a parts warranty or repar warranty? i did not bring the whole bike, just the bottom end.
Good luck getting the stealership to warranty anything that is not covered by manufacturer's warranty. You never know.. it's worth a try.
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I think I would actually wear one of these shirts in a 2X
You order one, I'll order one...and we can fuck with Tyler for shipping it to the wrong Dave G. LOL
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If it feels like it's trying to go while running in neutral that has nothing to do with the clutch. I recently went through what was probably the same situation with a friends bike. We were going to put a new chain on and the front sprocket wouldn't turn. I made sure it was in neutral and it took a lot of force to turn the sprocket and when it did turn, the flywheel sorta turned. We split the cases and found that the bushing inside 2nd gear had shifted sideways and caused that freewheeling gear to be in a bind and not spin freely on the shaft. We got a new bushing from a company back east that deals with RZ350 stuff and we glued it in the gear with some thermoneuclear bearing/bushing glue.
Before I'd split cases, I'd check everything on the clutch and cable side of things first.
But you absolutely could be right!
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I liked the Vito's pistons I had in my cub. I know that's not the motor you're asking about...but they were thicker on the intake side than the Wiseco.
See if they make one for your size motor.
10mil SUPER WAMPUS
in For Sale - Parts & Accessories
Posted
Maybe you're getting a frequent/return customer discount? LOL.
When I broke off a nice large chunk of my exhaust port on my cub, Millenium charged me $225 or $250 to fix the broken off piece AND replate it.
Then again, as mentioned, I get dealer pricing.
stroking, it might help to call them, get a name and details so the person buying it knows who to talk to and what price to expect.
That being said.
If you pay 275 for it shipped and it cost you 500 to get it fixed, you're still saving on it new, it will be better than a used cylinder since the plating will be new...and you're still ahead.
Good luck stroking.