Gobbler

Just oftopic a bit , but has anyone tried or know if the YFZ450 front callipers can or will fit onto a banshee front spindle ? Dual piston callipers would have to be better than the stock single jobies..

Ranshee, they need shee's there to run away from all the croc's Buzurk, you've had a fairly good wet season this yeah with a few cyclones just missing you and plenty of rain. We done pretty well here in the Pilbara W.A with some great rain Makes for some fun riding in the wet

Yeah Blue, the left side is like a light grey and the right side light brown. Looks like the left sides lean but the rights fine. I cant just put a bigger main in one carb, must have issues inside the engine for it to do that ?

I did a compression test and I got ~ 125 psi in each cylinder. When I first got the bike new I did a test and it had ~133 psi. Not bad for a nearly three year old engine. What I did notice was it took more kicks for the left cylinder to get up to 125 psi than it did the right side. Proberly twice as much really. Not sure whats going on there ? Anyway, the air cleaner was pretty good, It uses an outerware and that keeps it pretty clean. I just took the bike for a quick ride around the block then and noticed that when it bogs at WOT in 5th, if I pull the choke out to the second click, the motor pulls again and I can get into 6th and still pulling. This would indicate the mains are lean. But then it goes back to the fact of the jetting changing during a race which it shouldn't off. The elevation at the track is the same as my house so I ruled that out.

Guys, I have a basically stock 2001 banshee except for a K&N pod filter running no air box and a Dynojet rejet kit in the carbs for the K&N filter. The bike has been running sweet for 2 years with the standard pilot, Dynojet needle's in the middle clip and 280 mains @ sea level. The problem I have is recently while at the end of a 3 hour race the bike started to bogg in 5th and 6th at WOT. The bog wasn't there for the first 2 1/2 hours for the race. I was leaning towards an electrical problem because from carting experience a motor wont go out of tune instantly due to jetting. I bought new plugs and also took the stator cover off and cleaned the top and bottom ignition pickup strips and also the magnetic sensor as they were both fairly rusted. This helped it a little by moving the bog a bit higher up the rev range now but theres still a bog at WOT in 5th and 6th. My question is do I chase the jetting now or should I still be looking electrically ? I've ordered some 290,300,310 mains just incase but wouldn't mains that high be getting a bit crazy for only small intake changes ? Cheers

I'm trying to decide aswell, whether or not to remove them... I'm personally leaning towards removing them if only just for the extra room it will make available above the carbs

Yeah they are hard to bleed but the best way I found to speed things up is to take the resi lid of on the handlebars to refill the level as required during the blead, grab yourself some clear rubber tubing that will pressfit over the blead nipple on the caliper and grab a siringe ( spelling ??). Insert the siringe in the other end of the clear rubber hose thats attached to the bleed nipple. Use the siringe to suck the brake fulid down the lines and just expel the fliud into a jug and keep doing this until you have one caliper full, then do the same to the other. Once there both done you can bleed the brakes normally. Also dont let the fluid level in the lever resi fall really low or there will be air in the lines again and you will need to get that out.