Gobbler

Keep the bike man. I have both a shee and a 450 and theres days when the 450 is put aside and the shee is let loose. 2 bikes is better than one especially when you going to get ripped trying to sell a perfectly new banshee and will get pennies for it.

Thanks guys

Guys I've also got this problem with some replacement TRD reeds. Ive tried flipping them but they still wont seat fully. Will this cause any problems ? Sorry for the dig up of an old post but I did the right thing and searched before posting a new topic

P.M'ed J.J

Thanks boonman again. I'm going to check these reads and look right through the boots like you said. I suppose it won't be that bad just to replace the reads and boots now. They are 3 years old.

Thanks for the replt J.J. I did the soapy water trick and didnt find a thing. I've also removed the cluth cover and tried to get find a leak on the crank seal on that side but didnt. A few more tests later and Im still only dropping 1/2 to a 1/3 psi in 6 mins. It's pretty late herer now so tommorrow im goling to check the reads and carbs. Hopefull thats goin to be it.

Guys I tried a leak test but Im getting different results each time. Its beginning to really shit me. I blocked both exhaust exits, and made up plates with fittings to bolt over the read cages because that was going to be easier than finding pipes and fitting to use the carby boots. Anyway, whats happenning is with the first test ( im pressurising becasue I cant get hold of a vacum device here ) I pressurised to 6psi and in the 6 mins it dropped about 1 psi. In the second test, it dropped 1/3 of a psi and in ten mins and in the third test, it dropped 1/2 bar in 10 mins. With those results, is that acceptable or not ? I dont know waht the range is so to speek for leakage or is no leakage what we are after here ? Im starting to wonder if the reads are buggered ( They do look ok but im no pro on them ) or if I have blockages in the carbs, but ive cleaned them many times. Can anyone help me with this plz..

Thanks Boonman. I'm trying to get some gear together to conduct a leaktest but its bloody hard to find the stuff were I am. I was hoping to replace all the seals and gaskets to eliminate the problem without doing a test. I have gasket kit, and seals plus some tight joining surface gasket silicon which I persume is for the gear case. Also rebuilding the carbs with all new parts and gaskets will hopefully eliminate them. I'll just rebuild the engine tonight and see how it goes in the morning

Hi guys, My motor's got a air leak which is causing it to run lean up high in the rpm's ans splutter etc. I've just recieved a full gasket and seal kit from vito's performance ( top mob ) but was wanting to know if I can change all the motor seals out without having to tear the engine down to much. From experience, does anyone know if its more likely for the seals to go before the gaskets and let air in the motor ? Im hoping to do a quick fix ( like the seals only ) so I can get out and ride. Im not really to keen on splitting the gearbox apart if i dont need to. Any comments/suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated before I rip into this

Thanks for the replies guys. The verdicts still out though

Hi guys, I need some help trying to figure out if its still worth purchasing my ordered 05 YFZ450 SE, or cancel it and spend the cash instead on modifying my current banshee ? The reason I ordered the new 450 was to race at my local MX track against lightly modified Raptors, Shee's, 450's and Z400. I was going to spend additional money on the 450's suspension, motor wheels etc etc and it will/would cost me a small fortune. But I'm thinking the bike might be way over the top for the local scene. It would end up being like a Pro-production bike. My question is, do you think I should cancel the order for the 450 and spend ~3/4 of that money from the 450, on the banshee doing it up to race that instead ? That way I can save a bit of money and still have a bloody fast bike with a hot engine and the suspension to match...... All opinions are welcome Cheers guys

Thanks tats4life but I've just started replacing the bugerred crank seals and I have t-5's on the way to replace the stock exhaust. I went to my local motorbike shop here and put and order in for an 05 450F LE and was told before the end of the year I'll have it so I still got a fair bit of time left to roar the banshee around before my mate buys it.

Thanks again Banchetta, It looks like I have a crank seal leak as I cant find leaks on any other and with the startor cover off i can hear I small hissing sound around that area, so it looks like its the stator side seal so far. Im going to replace the seals, and gaskets on the bike, fix the leak and then put new pipes on it and sell it to my neighbour who absolutly loves the bike. I took him for a ride once and he's been waving cash in my face ever since to buy it off me. I might one day buy another banshee for its pure thrill two stroke ride, but for my local motorcrossing I need the 450F because I can lap my local track 5 secs faster on it that my banshee. On that, does anyone know if theres a forum thats as good as this for information on 450f's ?

Yeah imagine that cost $$$ !!! honestly, it will cost me ~ $600 AU to send it to and from the west coast. Thats a fair bit of dosh just for freight so thats why Im asking if DRacing are worth the effort. They look like it

OK, I did the test and I have a leak but not sure exactly were. I would of thoguth I could find it easily with it losing 6psi in 4 mins ( It suppossed to hold 6psi for 6 mins ). Ill need to futher investigate but the engines out of the bike and Im looking into sending it to Duncanracing to have the national kit work done and get them to rebuild the engine totally. Has anyone had any personal experiences with DR and their engines ? I would like to know as they look hell professional and I dont want to be sending my engine to the states to a crappy builder. P.S: Banchetta, thanks for the spot on diag's

Hamuel, to answer your questions, my mix is 32:1, I'm at sea level, only mod is a K&N filter with a dynojet rejet Kit installed, temps around 30 degree's C ( not sure on the F ? ) and finally humidity is around 50%. SSD your gf had large mains in her bike for the mods like mine. I can understand going up around 4 mains for a K&N filter but not 9 like your gf and 11 so far for me. Rescuejeff, looking at the plugs, it does look like Im lean and today we ran more test by starting with 350 mains and it works sweet with 350 mains. Pulls hard all the way to top revs in 6th at WOT. BUT !!! 350 mains in a near standard bike is bullshit. I'm thinking down the path that Banchetta was going. I must have a seal or gasket leak in the engine somewhere. I managed to get all the parts to do a leakdown test except for a rubber plug to do the exhaust side, so when I have that part tommorrow I'll do the leakdown test and see if its leaking. I really hope it is. Also thanks for all the replies guys, much appreciated

Thanks Banchetta, The speckles didnt really look like aluminium because they were so small and black in color. The last time I did a compression test was a few weeks ago and I had around 125/127 psi in the L/R cylinders. When I bough the bike in 2001 it had 135 psi in each cylinder new @ sea level. I get into this leak test today and if the seals gone, It looks like a great reason to finally rebuild the motor

Rescuejeff, The pilots are stock 25's but I have no hesitation from idle to 1/4th throttle. The needle is out of a Stage 2 Dynojet rejet kit I bought with the K&N filter and its in the default postion of clip 3 or middle as per dynojet instructions. The needle seems to be fine aswell, it pulls hard until it bogs up top. The mains at the moment are 310's. I just took the bike for some WOT tests 10 mins ago and with the choke fully in as you would normally the colour of the plugs was a darkish tan brown on one side of the electrode and a medium grey on the other. I also noticed slight dark speckels if you get my drift near the electrode tip. When I did a second test with the choke fully out this time the bike pulls all the way to the top rpm's and the plugs looked slightly darker brown and grey but the speckels were gone. Also to answer you questions about the airbox. I have cut the airfilter suroundings off from at the filter adapter point. The front of the box is still mounted onto the carbs via the rubber boot things and using the two frame mounts on the filter side. The filter just bolts onto its normal adapter point which I've secured to the original airbox front part using some self tappers and silicone to seal it. Its a cheap way of opening the airbox but it works

sredish, I have stock pipes on the bike, the only differnec is the K&N filter and the rests stock. Do I bother a WOT test in 6th with the choke fully out ? Thats the only way I can do it.

I will re-oil the filter but I dont have a fuel supply issue i think because when I ran the bike with the choke fully out at WOT in 6th, I did it for like 1km at least and if I did have a fuel restriction it would have shown up then I would of thought. This has become a

I cant do a WOT test on the plugs because I cant run in 5th or 6th without pulling he choke. If I do the test with the choke pulled wouldn't that defeat the purpose of doing it ?

Hi guys, I've been trying to get this jetting right for over 2 months now and I've got no were near it. My problem is the usual bogging down in 5th and 6th gear. When you shift into 5th open the throttle you get the same sound as you would kicking the engine over with full throttle open. If I pull the choke out fully in 5th, the bike pulls like it should to the top of 6th. Now this would tell me the bike has a lean condition on the mains circuit. Now before I go any futher the bikes stock except for a K&N pod filter with no airbox surounding. I cut the box off and dont use the radiator ressie. Now I originally had the bike running well with stock pilots, a dynojet needle in the middle clip and 270 mains. One day riding 2 months ago the bike all of a sudden developed a bog at WOT in 4th that made it impossible to get into 5th. I'm now at the point of same pilots and needle and 310 mains and still no real difference. I've done the following aswell: - checked the float height ( 21-22mm) OK - checked the float needle and seat for wear OK - cleaned the slides, adjusted the carb sync and its fine - checked the reeds for noticable wear or breaks OK - Placed new gaskets on the intake manifold to rule out engine side intake air leaks - replaced sparkplugs and checked the coil for correct output OK - cleaned the flywheel ignition points and the magnetic pickup ( rusted a bit ) - cleaned out the fuel petcock filter, replaced the fuel line to the carbs and removed the inline filter I had. - obviously cleaned the K&N filter and I dont oil it either as I have a new outerware on it I don't know what next to do. I personally think 310 mains are way to rich but when the chokes pulled the bike runs sweet up top. Thats why Im confused. As a comparison, my friend has T-6's on his with V-force reeds and dual filters on each carbs and he runs 300 mains and thats fine. BTW I'm also at sea level. I'm thinking of rebuilding the carbs with all new parts really only because I haven't done that yet I think its purely a carby problem because of the choke pull test I did in 5th and not an engine or electrical problem, but after all the checks Ive done on the carbs Im totally confused ?!?!!?!? What do I do next....... Plz help me someone

I have a few pairs that range in size from 170-240 and thought of reaming them out to largers sizes that I dont already have instead of ditching them. I dont use them now and proberly never will so istead of wasting them, I was going to try make them larger so I can use them one day

Guys does anyone know the actual measured sizes of the more common mains. LIke 200-350 ? I'm interested to find out what the diameter sizes are for each one if someone can help me.. Cheers

Thanks for that mate, in australia my local bike shop wants $350 AU for each calliper !! Thats steep