BRIAN BANSHEE

meesa got a 16 40 goin 146 kmph (blah blah) in mph!!!

I'm at 0 to 200 ft. max. read my sig for my mods. Hauls like a fu*kin' train.

i got one and it is f*ckin awesome 146 Kph baby!!! i lined it up with my buddies turbo integra which has a terra trip rally metere and it's super accurate!!

i'm at about 150 ft, and i went from full airboxto uni filter pods with dynojet 340 mains and dynojet needle on second clip from top, GOD DAMN DID THAT EVER MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!! HOLY SHIT

i was out in the piss pour rain yesterday and i guess some water got into the connection and the shee wouldn't start, so i took it home dried it out and blocked the connection with silicone i guess that will work.

i have a friend how is looking at a set of boyesen reeds, just the reeds not the cages or anything else. i have vf 2's he wants to know if they'l make a big difference or should he just spend the money and get the vf's. Thanx.

Are they any good look at my sig, and what would be there closest comparison. thanx!!

are they any good? They look sweet!!

i was told by a bunch of people that the tors removal kit was a bitch to put o. Guess i should have checked with the guru's on the HQ first.

HA HA!!!!!!!!! SUCCESS i unpluged it and now the bike runs like a savage thanks. I didn't want to have to do it but whatever makes it work i guess. does anyone have any suggestions on what i could use to keep water and dirt out of the connection?

as you know i have had a problem with my tors since my rebuild. So last tuesday i put in back in the dealer shop (first mistake) i tell him the problem and he says its the right tors switch. So i say i don't care how much it costs just fix the damn thing. Friday i go in and the bike is done, so i happy right... WRONG!! the mechanic says to me that for two tors switches it would be $350 CAN, and that he didn't want to make me pay for that cause it was two expensive. So what he did was cut the wires of the stockers, and put on two from some type of yamaha skidoo. it was the biggest hack job that i have ever senn but it said it would work and that i would never have trouble with it again. SO i standin there madder then a deaf mute playin bingo with bingo tryin to yell bingo, cause i can't believe what he's tellin me. But me being stupid i say well whatever will make th FUC*IN thing run i don't care. SO i pay for it which cost me $180, then he has the balls to tel mel that IF by some chance it doesn't work it's not his problem. So i say fuck it he said that it would be alright and i wouldn't have a problem. Then it happened. Saturday morning i'm going in the road up to my cabin and the fuckin thing starts to act up. I get off the bike and i look at the wires and all fuckin four have come apart. The stupid fuc* at yamaha never twisted the wires, he just soldered the two ends together and put about 5inches of heat shrink on it. Then i get back on start it up and it runs fine...................for about forty five seconds and all the gas it would take was about 1/8 throttle just enough to move it. so tomorrow i'm going in and i'm going go fuckin retarded at somebody!!! MAN I HATE DEALERS!!!!!!!

i've recently completed a complete rebuild of my shee motor and when i got it back from the dealer it would idol but until it warmed up it wouldn't take it's gas. The dealer told me that this was because it was mixed 20:1 to break in the motor. i ran the 20:1 for about 2 tanks and it got better, and i ran about 2 tanks of 32:1 after that and i never had a hitch, but this past weekend it started to do it again but really bad this time. So i call the dealer today and start flippin out, cause i just spent $2500 to rebuild this bastard and i'm no better off then i was. He told me that it was probaly the TORS. So i go to my huge yamaha bill and i see that the 2 tors were replaced, and i tell him this and he says that there nothing that he can do even though this was only done 3 weeks ago and i have the proof to show it on the bill. if any of you have had these symptoms on your shee would you care to help me out please!!!!!!!!! I'm about ready to blow this fucker up!!

ALL BULLSHIT ASIDE FROM MY OTHER THREAD i have just had my shee's bottom end completly rebuilt except for the rods and crank, i mean everything, and i paid about 500$ CDN for it all. I was wondering is that a good price, i got it all from the dealer too. Also i got a set of wiesco .50 over pistons rings bearing circlips top end gaskets and bored for 492$ tax in, i think that was a pretty good price.

i need to find a good sticker kit for this paint scheme any help is welcome.

what the smallest size bore i can do?

there probally was some play because the sleeve is not perfectly round anymore, it will definatly need to be bored probally .20 over or more , but i dont' want to do n e more then that.

the bad piston was with the good dome. Thats what i don't understand, how did that dome get fuc*ed up?

the piston on the right side apperaed to be fine, but the piston on the left had a big piece missing out of it, and a piece of the ring was missing too, so why does my head look like THIS!!!

no i checked that like 4 times to see if i was wrong, later on i'll post the pics cause i don't have my camera right now. SOOOOOOOOOO WIERD!!!!!!!!

i dont undeerstand why the head on one side would have all these pits in it but that pistons and rings seem fine but the other piston is missing a chunk and the sleeve is all warped but the head is fine on that side?

the motor is completly stock and yes i do have a shop that can do it for me but i dont want to have to bore to much. I'm hoping for only .20 over, but theres no way to tell yet

I took off my exhaust yesterday so i could paint it, and i looked up throuigh the hole and heres what i seen. So i pooped the head off and it's a wonder that the damn thing was running at all. The sleeves are warped scorned notched, and the ring is missing a peice and the piston has a big chip missing out of it, and on the other side where the sleeves were preety good, the head looked like somebody fired a shotgun at it. It was all full of pits and craters, and therre was alot of little bits of metal hanging off of it. Is it possible for the piece of the piston and the piece of the ring to get over to the other piston? i was also wondering what type of bore that im probally going to need? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/bri...ee/000_0380.jpg

i run stock rotors with the dealer pads (Sunstar i believe) and i find they work great. really cheap to!!

yesterday i stated to tear down my shee, these pics are only of the front left a arm assembly and one of the tie rod. I want to know if i should replace these a arms right now or can they wait for a while? I also noticed that on the blue a arm, the end cap that holds in all the greasew doesn't snap on like the other one, it only stays there because of the bolt, but there was still a lot of grease on the bolt when i tookl it out. is this a mojor problem?

and whats the benefit of replacing it?