r6rider04

all set now just went from 300 mains to 380 mains and it is perfect now i'm taking it out to the lake to break it in for while thanks again brian

yep the choke tube is in place and air screws are at 1 1/2 turns out

just got the shee back together, bored 30 over mild trail porting +4mm stroker crank, toomey t5's reed spacers proflow/k&n and 300 main jets... it will start and only stay running while i mess with the choke evan when it's warmed up, keeps acting like it's running on one cylinder it also reved quite high on it's own when i turned down the idle on the TORS, running lean????? bigger jets???? air leak some where??? i'm at a loss here guys please help ASAP thanks Brian

why you getting rid of it???

do you guys mix the engine ice or run it straight??

well when i get it back together it will have +4mm stroke, bored 30 over, toomey T5's, mild trail port and shaved head, reed spacers, jetted, pro-flo/k&n filter i think thats about it for anyway....

what do you think would be the next step up in mods after i get this all done, carbs, v-force reeds? just curious for now

thanks ducman very informative, i'll give the builder a call and look into this porting for the stroker crank, also would like to know what pipes are rcommended for the setup i have ie. stroker, porting etc, i have a set of T-5s right now

thanks for the replies won't have all my parts back til middle of the week, it's great to have a place like this to come to when you need to ask a question, i'll post when it's all back together to let you all know how it went, thanks again

when i lost the connecting rod bearing, the guy said it could probably be rebuilt, but rcommended the hot rod crank for reliabilty purposes and said if wanted to spend a lttle more i could go wth the +4mm crank with the +5mm long rods which would also be more reliable than the stock crank and give me some more performance... he's done alot of banshees so he knows what he's doing. but didn't mention any thing as far as porting for the stroker... just said i should also get the spacer plate to correct the port timing?? again over my head

i am totally new to this and porting is way over my i think, what has to be ported to work with the stoker crank? all i've had in the past is 4 strokes so all you port is intake and exhaust.. again i appologize for the newbie post..

this is the first time i have torn down a motor. took my time taking it apart and doesn't seam too difficult.. But what is the standard practice of putting these back together, from a new crankshaft up... i have a manual to go by but just looking for some pointers, assembly lube etc. thanks again .....Brian

yes it was H129, was listed exactly as fallows +5mm long rod,4mm stroker, in the parts unlimited book... hopefully i will notice some kind of difference, thanks again for the replies and i appologize if my first post was unclear, Brian

this is how it was list in the book (5mm long rods,4mm stroker) sorry if my previous post was worded wrong ... but anyway is there anything i should know before i get to far into this, well i already ordered the crank, and the head and cylinders are already headed for the machine shop thanks ,Brian

i just ordered the weisco hotrod crank with the +5mm long rods which turns out to a 4mm stroker and it will be bored 30 over with prolite pistons (high compression?), also having head done and a trail port, have toomey t5's any rough ideas what the HP might be after this is done? thanks....... brian

just wondering where to buy parts for my banshee..(i.e. crank, pistons, head, and wheres a good place to have my cylinders bored, or should i look around locally for a machine shop... just after christmas so i don't have alot of extra money. who has the best prices.. (I'm a little skeptical about ebay shopping) any ideas would be appreciated thanks......... Brian

it's the lower bearing.. is there anything too difficult about spliting the cases? i need to get in there to clean out all the metal fragments and look at the crank... do you think i can salvage anything, or do i need to bore both cylinders, new top end, new head, crank and rods?

i know you guys don't really know with out seeing first hand but based on what i've described what do you think i will need for parts and a ROUGH estimate on cost, i'm not expecting exact parts list or exact dollar amount just looking for a ball park figure, thanks again guys..... Brian

well i just got in from the shop after 3 hours and yes it was one of the connecting rod bearings.. one piston is toast with rings siezed and that side that the bearing went, the head is all scarred up , the other piston,head ,cylinder etc. looks all set, evan the side that went the cylinder looks good, what do you guys think???

went down to the pond today to do some ice racing with my buddy... when i came out of the corner engine started rapping still idling but something is deffinately boken or loose any idea, it will still start and everything (no i'm not still running it) any ideas???? thanks, Brian

not sure where to look, any ideas would be appreciated

thanks smurf.. should be all set then

i just moved my needles up one notch and i'm running 300 mains and it goes great fires right up every time, but i know if two stokes are "too good" they are to lean how can i tell if it's too lean, what sould the plugs look like? right now they are kind of a light coffee color, i just got it studded up for the ice i just don't want to burn it up

he was a little tender for a few days but he ended up alright, still appologizing 6 months later....

wow i wish my sur traks still looked like that they worked good for me and you can run them in either direction