BansheeGuy_IV

Hey guys, An update. After literally swapping out everything... Every electrical component, 3 sets of reeds, 3 sets of carbs... 2 different heads... A completely new set of cases, all new crank seals... I completely replaced the left cylinder... Fresh bore... Guess what? IT STILL HAS THE SAME PROBLEM. Right now it's in a holding pattern... Literally... Because I don't know what else to try. So until I think of something... BG

I'm having the same problem with an engine I rebuilt. I can't figure it out either. I replaced the entire electrical system. I replaced the cylinder on the affected side. I replaced the head. I replaced 3 sets of reed cages. I tried 3 sets of carbs. I tried new boots. I tried new intakes. I completely replaced the bottom end cases. I replaced all the crank seals (TWiCE)... And it still does the same thing... The one thing I did not replace was the actual crankshaft itself. It is a brand new Wiseco hotrod crank though with the pins welded. I am however, going to try replacing that too. If any of you guys figure out what's wrong with yours let me know. I suspect the new piston kit isn't going to fix your problem Infamous. BG

I appreciate everyone's responses. I am actually swapping the head and replacing the left cylinder. I'm determined to make it run for him. BG

Hey, I wanted to share. I came across this line of products called Adam's Polish. I found it on a car forum. It wasn't too expensive so I ordered some of their aluminum polish to try it out. The classic car guys were raving over it. Well it came in. Two bottles... One BLue (gritty) and one pink (fine). Well, it was very watery... The looks of it didn't impress me at first. It had no smell really. So I took a small amount and I rubbed it on my polished aluminum cases. They're normally a bear to polish with all their little grooves... Well I rubbed on the polish and viola! It almost turns to a haze and wipes off with minimal effort producing a tremendous shine. I would describe it as having the polishing characteristics of Mother's Billet polish, only this stuff rubs off with no kind of effort. For you folks who have a ton of aluminum on your quad (like me) it's worth it! Here's the link to their site. http://www.adamspolishes.com/index.cfm BG

Hey guys, Appreciate the continued ideas. The porting on this particular engine is bone stock. The cylinders were pristine, the pistons pristine. Fresh bores. No foreign material in any of the exhausts. I pulled the head and cylinder for the 5th time probably... And from test riding it... Trying to figure it out... I cold seized the left cylinder. It didn't gouge above the exhaust port, but the bore is shot just the same. I've got a new cylinder coming... To completely take the other one out of the picture. The jugs on it were used from a salvage yard. I'd love to have it magnafluxed to see if there is a hidden crack somewhere.... Especially where the coolant jacket is right above the transfers. I'll be back at it next weekend putting on the replacement jug to see what happens. BG

Hey guys. It's b een 18 months since I had my engine done by Jim at Passion Racing. I had the 12 port, 4mm longrod, matched cases... He worked with me on the specs of the porting, and what I wanted out of the engine. It was a little tough to jet, but that really came down to my resistance to finally switch to 35mm PWK carbs. Once I switched, and experimented with the right needles, it really ran great, and has been running great. It has power available throughout the RPM range. His workmanship is impeccable. So after 18 months, I tore down the top end, to inspect it, and redo the rings. Boy was I surprised! The cylinders are in pristine condition. The pistons are in pristine condition. I ran a quick cylinder hone through them to recrosshatch them, and they look as if they were just bored. After 18 months of running his stroker setup it's still pristine and running like the day it was built. In all truthfulness, it didn't even really need the new rings, I just replaced them because I have it torn down. So not only did Jim keep his word by building me an engine that meets all of my performance goals, but he built me an engine that is bulletproof and is as reliable as the day is long. I would not hesitate to have another engine done by him. Actually, When I build a Cheetah setup, he's going to be my guy. ;-) BG

Hey Guys, I recently purchased a Stage IV Trinity head... It's their newest incarnation. The quality of the product is absolutely superb. They do away with all the little O-Rings around each stud, and they use the stock studs. Very nice product. A not so nice experience I had was with RK-Tek. I gave him a call, hoping to get one of his heads. He asked me who built my engine, and I told him Jim did from Passion Racing. He laughed at me on the phone, told me I should be running one of those NOSS heads. He was really rude and condescending. So I took my business elsewhere. BG

Good thought, But I went through the entire wire harness, from Coil to CDI, to all the switches, back to the stator. None of my wires are taped. Everything is soldered and heat shrink wrapped. BG

Hiya, I have the shift pro, and a modified shift star, and a Yakkey shift drum that has the bearing. Together, just a light tap of the shifter and you get a very smooth "plink" into gear, almost like you're using a racheting tranny. It's ultra smooth. The drawback is that until I got used to it, I was missing shifts. I often shifted from first, right into neutral... Once I got a little practice... It was a big improvement over stock. Good Luck, BG

Hey guys, TORS is completely removed, all traces of it are gone... The TORS module is gone. The wires... etc... Swapped out to a new coil... Cleaned the heck out of the ground at the regulator. I can swap spark plugs al day and all night. No change. Here's a list of things I've done. Swapped plug wires Changed plugs several times Swapped out two sets of reeds/cages Swapped out 3 sets of carbs Swapped out Stator, CDI, Coil, Flywheel Leak Down Tested -- Passed Compression Tested 150lbs both cylinders Set gap on pickup coil .018 Checked crankshaft to be sure it was in phase (Passed) Checked Squish clearance (Passed) Ring End Gap (Passed) Completely re-rebuilt the engine with a fresh set of factory cases. (No change) and all new seals a second time. (No change) I'm really hurting for ideas. BG

No trouble with foreign materials. Good thought though Wall... I checked to be sure. I'm still not having any luck. I swapped the stator, the coil... The flywheel... Still same problem... It improved with swapping the stator, but didn't resolve. Hmmm... BG

Good Thoughts, But swapped out an entirely new set of cages, same result. Getting spark, both plugs. Replaced spark plugs, several times. ;-) BG

Nope not a carb problem. I swapped out 3 different pair of carbs. That's good thinking though. I exhausted that route already. BG

Yanno as I Was typing this... I am more suspect that it is electrical... Given the nature of it... Doesn't seem like coil. CDI? Stator? hmm... I just dunno... BG

Hey Guys, I want to run something by ya'll. I'm scratching my head on this one. I rebuilt a banshee engine for a friend of mine. I rebuilt it from the ground up. New crank, fresh cylinders with a fresh bore. New Reed petals (V-Force 2 cages). Everything assmembled as smooth as a baby's bottom. When we fire her up, she sputters out of the left cylinder. So I was thinking... Okay... No problem... It's something small. So... Compression tested... 150lbs both cylinders. Leak down tested... Passed. Spark... Both plugs spark nicely. Carbs... Calibrated, synched... In fact... Took them off, swapped out a pair of new carbs, recalibrated, resynched. Plugs... Fresh, new. Correctly gapped. Timing. Adjustable timing plate... Check! 0 degrees of advance. Stator pickup aligned with the flywheel? CHECK! So what do I do? I pulled the head. THe right side is running normal. The left side... Mostly wet... Appears to be misfiring more than it's running. Enough so that it fouls the plug pretty quickly. Where does it misfire? All RPM ranges... Including Idle. I'm scratching my head at this point. The liklihood of a CD unit going "bad is relatively low... And if it did... I don't think it would affect just one cylinder. Yes, all the obvious things are elimited. TORS removed. Choke tubes correct between the carbs. Carb slides in correctly... Heck I swapped out to a pair of 28mm flatslides that I had in my shop just to try it, with the same results. The intake boots are new, not leaking. Standard crossover tube... I just don't know what I'm missing. I've been building 2-stroke engines for 15 years, and banshee engines for over 10. I've never had this sort of thing happen, where I didn't find something as the root cause. So, guys... I ask ya'll... Start throwing stuff out there... Anything you can think of... I've gotta get to the bottom of this before I go crazy. BG

Hey stumpy... Where's Manchester? Manchester NJ? Hmmm... BG

Deuce, Yep it's a 12 port. Jim did an outstanding job. His workmanship really impressed me. He worked with me on the specs, and built me exactly the engine I was wanting. I am really happy with 15/40 gearing and 20 inch tires. It has more than enough top speed for the riding I do. I mostly ride trails. In fact I have a trail-tech speedo that is calibrated to the nearest mm of wheel circumference... And my average speed for a ride is usally under 30mph. I'm an old man :-) My only complaint about my engine... It sucks down fuel like a funny car dragster... I run VP C12... And I fill up... I average about 25-30mph on a full tank, and that's riding her easy. I actually have a grab bar 6-pack rack that holds a 2.5 gallon gas can and I put her on there if I'm going to ride more than 10 miles away from a source of fuel. ;-) BG

Hrrmmm... IF you look at Pro Design studs... The smooth "shaft" is a little bit larger than the threaded area so that the O-rings make a tight seal. They're alot harder to match up than one would think. I had the same issue recently and Pro-Design told me they didn't make extra studs because theirs were "lifetime" and if i wanted to wait some unknown length of time they might be able to get me some. So I told them to bite me and I bought a new head that uses stock studs ;-) BG

Hrmmm... You really have alot more to do to be road worthy. I don't think I have convinced you that the 18 tooth sprocket is not helping you. Let me give you a scenario. Did you ever ride a 10 speed bicycle? Did you ever ride an 18 speed bicycle? When you put the bicycle in first gear... It's almost effortless to peddle. You can peddle your brains out without struggling, but you don't go very fast. As you change gears... It gets progressively more difficult to peddle but you can go faster. Now when you shift into the top gear and you peddle, it's difficult. You can't peddle nearly as fast, but the bicycle goes much faster. Now imagine taking the top gear of your bicycle and making its gearing SO tall that it takes all of your effort, all of your force, and you can just barely turn the peddles. Not only will you not be able to go fast, but you'll exhaust yourself in the process. This, my good man, is what you're doing to your banshee. Bone stock it only has 36-38 rear wheel horsepower. It's just not "Strong" enough to "peddle" the gears you've put on her. So what are your options? Either train your banshee like Lance Armstrong (Cheetah cylinders), or change the gearing. ;-) Just think about it. I can't say anymore on the subject really. BG

LS7Colorado, I think my last post may have seemed a little abrasive now that I went back and reread it. I apologize. I didn't mean to sound like a jerk. In all truthfulness, alot of people have made the mistake of trying to overgear their quads. Heck, I knew a guy who had a blaster geared much the same way, and he thought he was doing 90mph, and to him it felt like it. I run a 4mm longrod stroker... Porting done by Jim Smart (Awesome Guy), 17cc heads with VP C12 race fuel, V-Force reeds, 35mm PWK carbs and Rocket Pipes, lightened flywheel, and +5 timing advance. My tranny has a Yakkey shift drum, a modified shift star, a Pro Shift linkage for the star... I run 15/40 gearing, and while I suspect I could pull off 16/40, I'd be giving up that "power in any gear" setup and for my purposes it would be less trail friendly. I think it is pretty cool that you can ride your shee to work. Are you in a place where it is legal to roll down the asphalt? --Don't answer that. Hehe I would rethink your gearing... Something like 15/41 would be alot closer to what I think you're after, and I think alot of the more knowledgable folks on here will agree that the 18 tooth is only hurting, not helping, your performance. BG BG

18tooth front sprocket... A stock banshee will "never" pull that kind of gearing. In fact, I'd be willing to wager you'd need in excess of 100 horsepower to even think about gearing that high. For all I know you could be running a Cheetah setup with 130 horsepower and in that case, I say... Whew... You've got one fast banshee. -- But I get the impression you're running a stocker, or near stock. If your beast is as tame as I think it is, drop down to a 15 tooth sprocket and save yourself some embarrassment. BG

Hey guys. I bought these hubs on Ebay... They're freakin' awesome quality. They even exceeded my very picky expectations. I even think the price was good. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...605039347QQrdZ1 Front and rears for $425.00. The seller was very accessible... BG

Quite simply... No... It's normal for slides to show some wear. I doubt they have anything to do with an "airleak" problem. You need to be more specific as to what the problem is. Are the RPM's not returning to idle quickly (Revving), Is the idle not smooth? Is the idle too high? It is most likely a jetting issue. Once you are a bit more specific on the problems... We can better direct the best way to approach it. BG

Hey Everyone, Last day on the Ignition. It's still available on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=4584449651 If you let me know you're a BHQ member, and you win the auction... You get half price shipping. Thanks, BG

Hey guys, Just one hour left... Going for a good price. So if interested... Have at it. BG