RNBRAD

I don't use the Novus, cause all it is is car wax in a small bottle with a different name and a high price. Honestly though I use meguiar's step 2 polish and a 4" cotton wheel on the die grinder and go slowly from inside to outside with the wheel. Just basicly polishing the surface. If it's heavy scratches then I'll use a fine cut cleaner first then the polish. Works almost every time and when you have kids playing these 50 dollar ps2 games, you gotta find a way to repair them.

20/21cc depending on altitude for 93 octane. No the Noss head won't make more power, but he is a site sponsor and we support them and if you have problems he is easy to contact.

Can't answer the jet ? but for 100 octane gas I'd run around 165/170 compression. Try the sidewinder tool steel or Timoly sprockets. They should last years. Stock gearing should be a good start with those size tires.

Why not take that money and get a port job. I think Eric Gore's woods port is like 250. If I didn't have a port job I think I'd rather spend it there first than reeds. Thats just me though.

Whenever you get it done!!

Max load or TZ bearing for your crank. Shift star mod. Hinson basket and pressure plate. New steels and fibers, heavier springs etc.. Some things to think about. Max load or TZ would be a must in my book.

Wouldn't matter, I'd still change it.

Those are the Janssen boots, they run about 35-40 for the set. I wouldn't say they are completely water proof if they get totally submerged. They have stayed clean for me riding the dunes. My heims use to grind with grit from sand, now they remain clean and smooth operating.

I'll take the front calipers.

The heim boots work excellent so far. I've had them for about a year with no problems.

Give Jeff at FAST Racing a call or PM. He can fix you up.

Yea I think Stephen emptied mine too. I'm bringing a foley with a leg bag this next time, got tired of trips to the bathroom.

You have to be careful when comparing dyno numbers with other dyno's across the U.S. You may be chasing ghosts you can never catch and be left with an empty pocket in the pursuit. Just know there are a lot of tricks to the trade to getting people the numbers they want. Lightweight slicks shaved and used for dyno's (only) can weight just a couple lbs and can increase a quads hp output by 10-15%. Some Dynographers will weigh your tires and use a set of slicks that are a close weight to more accuratly reflect your hp and performance you can expect off the dyno. Others just shoot for the highest number possible.

If you have a dremmel you can port the cases yourself with a little instruction. I think for pump gas you will be around 22cc domes, 21 use a 50/50 mix and anything lower you will need 100% race fuel. I would defintly check your compression when it's built just to double check your compression and go with the octane accordingly. I use the FAST clutch as well and have not had a problem with it on the 421 cub.

That would be the job of the original author!

Yea, Shane does excellent work!!! Also I thought the check valve system is better than shim stack but it's a patent issue that keeps the other companies from using it at this time.

You can get some pretty cool shirts from my link in my sig, www.gotchrome.com. They have a pretty sweet T with a banshee sitting in the dunes on the back.

That was hilarious!!

Try a 10" rim if your slipping an 8. I can understand maybe a slight wobble off the line with misaligned paddles but can't see the quad not tracting straight and continuously turning in one direction. You will have equal forces on both sides at different times, they will off-set each other at some point. It would be the delay that would or could cause a left to right shutter. I would think the tires during launch are spinning so fast you shouldn't be able to tell anything but extra vibration.

Or do a search on the Duncan Banshee in the Pont De Veu. It raced against the new 4 smokes. They said there was just no way they could match the top speed of the banshee in the straights.

Customer service and a complimetary clean up port is worth something. I think the builders on this site could match that pretty close and get you the stuff you need. It sucks when you find out there's something you forgot when your in the middle of your build. That package is missing a lot of items to complete the project.

I've always wondered what makes roll so much better than other top manufactured brands? Do they increase handling, better stability? Fit and finish? They fit better than other arms and have a better appearance? Do they hold up better under certain forces where other arms are breaking? Superior materials or manufacturing process that shows an increase in performance, track times, tractibility, ease in steering, better geometry, lighter weight? Just need some elaboration as to what makes them better. Where are they different or what really sets them apart from the rest of the pack, trademark, etc...?

Water Wetter has excellent corrosion properties. Where do you get your misinformation?

I think the fiber material is more important than any width you may gain with the clutch plates. My personal opinion is the barnett kevlar clutch plates I had previously are crap. They muddied up my tranny oil and when I did my rebuild I was quite surprised to find that the square pads were worn smooth. They had about 4 hours of riding on them and they were almost gone. My clutch was never slipping that I could tell, so I will be able to tell how much better these fibers are for longevity v/s the kevlar and oem. My oem plates had less wear than the barnett's with about 40 hrs of run time.