RNBRAD

Trinity's going to have a little less low end but make more power up top. Mid range will probably be pretty close between the two.

Anti- Christians are the one's that have caused the deaths. Christians have been persecuted since Christ's atonement. Good thing we are in a free country where we have freedom of religion and we can choose what we feel is right. They even try to reach out and kill us over here and it really boils down to Christianity. We are the infidels and we must die is how they believe. Is it that hard for people to understand that this belief system is somehow flawed? Of course most of these people don't have a choice of whether to be a muslim or not. They can't be a Christian and live in their own country because of their doctrines they live by. Sounds like the kind of religion I would want to follow. Not!!

I did the Eibach spring and revalve.

They are a snug fit but if they are too tight you can sand the billet ends a little. They will stay in place once centered and set, even without the bolt.

I have the same arms. The bend goes in the back, the straight angled bar goes in the front. That left arm looks like it would fit perfect if the straight front bar was moved out. I can't see that unit fitting on any quad cause of the extreme angle the heims would be at. Well there may be a quad that has pivot points on the frame that are not in line, one off-set from the other. Though I'm not faimiliar with any.

I would give the knod to the T6's on a stock motor since that is exactly what they were designed for. The Trinity's were designed for modded and ported motors. The Toomeys are a well made pipe but they still won't compare to Trinity's quality, even if the Toomey's were stainless.

It is or someone had a really bad day at work. If it was for long travel or whatever it would still fit, that arm won't fit.

I don't call it anything, my wife calls it a mantel piece. lol

The pic on the left is the correct arm for your quad, problem is it has been damaged. It has been bent inwards which is throwing your heims out of wack. Was the package damaged when you received it?

I thinik of he was going to build it he would of already done it. This thread is over 3yrs old.

I learned my lesson on the banshee calipers. Those things took forever and they don't have near the nooks and crannies as the cbr calipers. There's just some things you would rather pay someone else to do and it would be polishing those. lol

You guys are forgetting one important thing. Yes forged pistons will last longer, BUT, they wear your bore out faster too. Stick to cast unless your doing a cub or some exotic porting work.

You need to adjust the idle screws, the ones that are on top of the box sitting on your carbs. Adjust them equally turning them clockwise untill you get a nice idle. Do this after your motor has been warmed up for about 3 minutes.

This will make it easier for me to PM a link. I use the 3M rol-loc pads for most of my sanding. They came in 3 basic coarses, Coarse (brown) medium (maroon), fine (green). I use the 1.5'' and 2.5" discs mostly, though they have larger. The Scotch-Brite pad I cut circles out of for use with a dremmel accessory shaft. This is for those small crevices. Then use the small cotton wheel to polish those small area's (rouge applied). The 8" cotton wheels can be used on a benchgrinder type motor. Just remove the protective shields. Any questions, feel free to ask. Project I just finished. Fork tube holders on my bike.

:yelrotflmao:

I agree and it will give people an incentive to continue this. Clymers are great and all for stock banshee's but most of us deal with aftermarket equipment the Clymers don't cover. I think we can cover things in a much better and more personal/practical manner. It also helps the new members who are not aware of the previous walk-throughs on certain topics.

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Yea Paypal has worked good for me in the past on a similiar situation. I just can't believe people operate in such an (expletive here) unprofessional manner. What struck me wrong is he was like I already spent half the money. Soooooooooooooo what!!!!! That's making it your fault Tyler. If a person can't come up with half the price of a product if not the entire price for an unhappy customer, they shouldn't be selling anything in the 1st place, PERIOD!!! That guy is a flippin moron and it affects all of us who sell in these forums.

Who me? naaaw I can't concentrate when it comes to sheep. :shrug:

Man I hit one lamb at 0.0000. I musta flinched and got lucky. 0.1448 best I could muster. I'm just glad no sheep were harmed in the making of that game. :yelrotflmao:

:thumbsup: No, that is the Cheetah, not the Cheetah Cub. There is a 421cc in both models. Check dajogejr's previous post as to where to get it. I don't really recommend anyone other than jeff at FASTOYS.

The last link is the Cheetah cub we are talking about. Though that one is for a stock stroke crank. I would definitly go with a +4 crank and do the 68mm 421cc cub. I would say the reliablility factor is close to a stock motor but will require a little more frequent piston and ring change. Notice the big difference in price as well. That's what makes the cub so popular, same power without the price. The price of the kit is good but I would PM Jeff (FASTOYS) on here and get your stuff from him. He can easily answer any question and handle any problems you have as where these ebay guys won't. The most popular modified motor is easily the 421 cub motor! BTW dajogjr, that's not Trinity making that claim that you don't have to split the cases for the 421.

Chuck I'd defintly say it's more throttle responsive and hits the pipe quicker. The main reason I say it has more low-end than my stock cylinders, is I frequenlty ride dune trails and such with my kids on their quads so I can keep an eye on them. It use to be a clutching nightmare. This was the 1st and most apparent difference between my cub and my stock stroke motor (ported and/or stock port). It is a lot easier to ride under the powerband and lug the motor through the trails with minimal clutching as compared to before. I couldn't believe the difference!!! Now this is mainly due to the +4mm stroke, someone may get more bottom end from a +4 stroke on stock cylinders. I'm not sure cause I haven't compared the 421 cub with stroked stock cylinders. But in my case it was immediatly apparent I had more low end.

Yea I'd actually say the Trinity's produce more top-end power than the T5's but similiar none-the-less. I run +6 timing, exactly 185psi. My bottom sucks too, but better than my stock motor ever thought about being at any stage of modification.

I have more bottom end now then my banshee has ever had, even when I had my stock set-up and fmf fatties. No doubt there's a lightswitch hit cause there is soo much top end. Thing is before I could never putt around in the dune trails and hills under the powerband as easy as I can now.