racer

reaming is a machining process. not something you want to undertake with a step-bit. so i would absolutely order the right sized one. i wish i could tell you what size to use, but im unclear on how the how order of operations goes down to begin with. im just positive im not going to take a series of hole saws to my spindle like was mentioned above. i just googled tapered reamers and found a shit-ton. so once you get the right size there is a start.

i dont care.

thats a difficult issue to assess, but not really. have it welded as soon as you can. dont destroy your fresh topend, but next time its down for some good sized maintenance have it done. with a true'd/welded crank one can get very very decent HP number before the need for a high perf crank is there.

hey dude, welcome back. when you gonna start photo shoppin pics of the retard basketball hero i keep seein on sports center? j/w..........

uh huh. me too. ive been never been too drunk before. the way i see it thats like riding too fast, or jumping too high. never too much. and whats with the pot pictures? pretty sure when i logged on it said banshees. not fuckin losers who like to brag about how much grass they can smoke, or how dank of shit they grow/sell/buy. have some respect for yourself, or at least the others on there by not posting such worthless crap.

wider a-arms CAN make you faster. not the bike faster in a sense of velocity, but rather how well it can be controlled in a high speed scenario. ie slippin it out sideways rather than braking and turning. if i had the chance for arms id take them before some performance work anyday. because then you have power you cant use as a rider. and if you have it, but cant use, you have wasted your cash. and chase narrow you sig, having to adjust the page to read a sentence is shitty. have some courtesy for the other readers.

well they are packed and sealed bearings so they never will turn as easily as a lightly oiled unsealed one. try taking the caliper off and see if it is just brake drag that your feeling. if the caliper isnt on there maybe take it apart make sure everything is in there straight. if one of the bearings is in the carrier cock-eyed and you ride it it may trun south real quick.

good plan. now heres make some guys make some mistakes. have the jugs measured accurately by a machinist then order your pistons in a suitable size, but order them BEFORE you cut the jugs. once the pistons come in the crowns will have a measurement of the pistons exact size, down to the .0001. or at least wiseco's do. that way your cylinders are closer to the actual size of the piston. not just the +.030 that you ordered. just a tip for a tighter motor.

hmm, take the motor out and take it to a machine shop. or.....since the remover is reverse threaded put a socket on the larger hex and impact that bitch out in the forward direction on the gun. that bolt will come out relatively easy with all of the pressure off of it. and once its out clean up your threads and replace the bolt with a grade 8 of an F-911. if yu snap one of them fuckers off, hooo weee.

ive got black powdercoat, so a good black sharpie im ready to run. mail some paint if im really bored.

i wouldnt stress about the warped head. to check you just need a check plate, any bike shop with boring facilities should have one, and will probably check it for free. if it is fucked, just mail it to someone to have ground into a high comp head. 2 birds one stone.

Blue Deuce i more than correct. horsepower is fun to brag about but torque wins races. once upon a time one builder was getting right around 100 HP out of stock cylinders, stock stroke, and a very well prepped motor in general. that would be the fun bike to run. like a church girl, mild on the outside only..........

they are tall, heavy, and electric start. but ya efi is nice, and another complicated device to break. K.I.S.S.

well where did it break? as long as the loss of material isnt going to cause one of your rings to hang up.

thats a also a sweet way to polish your alum rear wheels. just move the polish in and out, but watch for the valve stem, that fucker hurts.

for the non believers in the crowd, read this thread. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...t=0#entry485239

the impeller looked very loose in its housing in the very first picture of it, but to have it not spinning at all is fatal, obviously. and somebody thought i was stupid for recommending a billet pump as cheap insurance. might have to link up these two threads. Erik do you mind if i borrow your pics?

34's are too big for most stock cylindered bikes. he said 2-1 so he was probably going to get either a 33 or 35, so dual 34's is a bit much. the larger carbs flow more air and fuel and make more power, but with out the need ( ie the vacuum drawn from the engine) the intake charge wont have the needed velocity to make them run any better. id go with a single 35mm personally. many people on here have sun them for quite a while and done really well.

you can get one and they are cheap. but heres my opinion on them. wallrat already noted the ease of stripping al so why put yourself in that position in the first place? it just seems like a bad idea to keep your steel axle in place with an aluminum nut. they are easier to install, but on the flip side: if those bolt that put the nut in a bind on the axle come loose nothingis holding it in place. two jam nuts, properly torqued, will never ever come loose. another benefit to that is you can apply grease or antisieze to the threads, i wouldnt trust that with my alum nut. just some thoughts on mixing materials.....

whoops, i was drunk when i wrote that. he he

10 days, first drink? whew i wish i had a stress relieved life like that.

RAMOS!! thats it. my dad has all kins of stupid shit plated by them from the seventies. been around forever, just couldnt get the name....

youre right, not all of those stupid little trinkets have any merit, a perfect example is the boost bottle. but a water pump that wont degrade ove time is a good deal. youre c-clip thing was a factory defect. prep youre bikes a little better and it wont happen.

try brad's chromer. i cant remember the name off hand, but they have ben here in OKC for like ever, and they do a hell of a job.

youre probably gonna melt a topend when youre trying to jet it, so factor in that price as well.