racer

whats that, according to THIS GUY you dont even need that shitty hardware . youll have to read down on that thread until UPS starts talking.

thats how all of the fast guys from PS do it. it just so happens that the turbo bikes always have loudest pipes..........

i just love these types of threads. so filled with useful knowledge. also, hey sredish, you ever thought about puttin your stockers back on and seein what kind of diff it made?

yeah, mine moves too. the clutch plates ares still touching even when yo pull the lever in. just not enough to get the full power of the motor into the gearbox. but i dont understand you plug q. if your bike still moves a LOT maybe you need to adjust your clutch cable, or even better get a new one. also under the clutch side cover in the middle of the pressure plate there is a screw, it also controls clutch issues. you might fiddle with this a little and see if that helps. to tighten it up, like i suspect you may need, turn the screw in a turn or two and then set the locknut, put it all back together, and then test and see if youre issue still remains.

thats a hell of an idea, ive got the same prob but never even dreamed of doing such a thing.

well, shit, i guess i learn something everyday.

yep, they can go in wrong. the grooved side of the ring goes up.

umm, dude, vancouver is in canada. haha.

you all are wacky! ive got 600 bucks in my wakeboard setup, f*ck draggin it across the sand.

is that a 33 or the 35?

bwahaha, you can spell country that way because you cant use the word kunt.

r6 or an fzr600, same motor but in two seperate states of tune.

for my next round im gettin regular wisecos. i had trinity superlites and they were light but not a big noticeable difference. plus the wiseco pistons are cheaper.

well that sucks. about getting new stuff PM Holyman, he knows quite abit about those things. maybe try vitos and RockyMountainATV.com also.

a&s racing is the states but its a little closer to you than passion. not to mention they build some wicked fast shit. a & s racing

if they roll rough they are done anyways. pulled it out of the oven yet?

if you need to add ice put it in 1gal zip lock bags. stuff them full and add a lil water with some rock salt to keep it WAAAY cold. that way itll stay cold and cant get watered down.

yeah, that makes sense but coming off of a short stroke 2stroke anything will seem to rev a lil slow. i personally feel like im riding in a lifted diesel when i ride a raptor. they are just too tall for me.

thats just what ive heard . but yes if the rubber does end up melting you will have to replace them. shouldnt be too expensive though. why are you tearing your hubs down anyways?

geez cotton maybe you should clean up once in a while.

yeah, id like to see them bitch about runnin the shee late at night with that in the driveway.

yeah thats the diff between red and blue. blue is simple to remove, red is that shit you may never ever lay eyes on again. to remove the bearing put the hub in your oven at about 200 degrees. let it sit for a while hten pull it out and gently whack it on a board and they should fall right out.

id love to go up for thanksgiving. that is if i get my motor back together and in my bike in time. i think im gonna send off my crank some time in the near future.

they also rev real slow. to me they feel slow in general cause they dont pull like the shees do

when i did mine i wrapped a rag around the rotor itself and then set it in a vise. i used some hex's set into 3/8 sockets to remove the bolts. no heating just steadily applied pressure to prevent rounding.