wodeman

http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/ Banshee accessories & performance - Exhaust heat wraps 2- 17 inch Exhaust Pipe Wraps~Universal Fit For All Big Bore Inframe Banshee Pipes Part: PW-20 PROTECT YOUR OUTERWEARS,WIRING HARNESS OR PLASTIC FROM EXCESSIVE HEAT WITH A PIPE WRAP MADE OF ALUMINUM SILICA FABRIC-FIBERGLASS & SEWN WITH KEVLAR COATED STAINLESS WIRE! RATED AT 1800 DEGREES! $ 39.95 PAIR WORKS GREAT!

Rockymountainatv.com....they "were" $60 for the pair - outerwears another $15

My son and I have a 92 banshee with FMFs, we just got used carbs off a 99 with 310 mains and 27.5 pilots with a toomey 2into1 intake and a single K&N. Our banshee had stock carbs, NO tors, with an airbox (stock mains, stock pilots 3 turns out, needle on 2nd clip from the top). We put on the newer carbs because the old ones had a bad float, and newer is always better, these were jetted with the K&N etc right? (HA). After I cleaned them out, put them on. Pilots 1.5 turns out, needle on 3 clip from top. Tried running it and it had a BAD bog right off bottom. Runs fine on top. We thought too much needle since it was 1/4 to 3/4 on throttle so we put the needle on 2nd clip. Still had a bog, but it seemed to run better with the choke on, so now I think an air leak somewhere. BUT now is where it gets WEIRD...as my son was pulling it into the garage, it was late evening, the right headlight went out, then we noticed the low beam from the switch were not working, THEN the headlights went out totally. We then thought we would try putting in the stock 25 pilots at 2 turns out for one last run, still had the bog as my son went down the street, good on top end. But when he came back, now the taillight is out WTF!!(?). Any ideas, all I could think first was wiring for the headlights, but why? Can the CDI or the stator be giving me problems causing the carbs not to work i.e ignition timing ? Gonna check the wiring today, I'm TOTALLY lost on where to start! Maybe put on the stock carbs again....HELP (3 weeks til Oregon dunes......Thanks

Here's the deal, I've narrowed it down to 3 sets. The shearers, t-5s, and paul turner high-revs. Rockets are way out of the question now, don't even want to take a chance, sound like they're great pipes, it's just overall. I know Toomey and Paul Turners have been proven over time, but all I hear about Shearers are how great they are. Ride sand all the time, I could care less about bottom end. Right now the motor is stock (except for a pair of OLD FMFs ). Which pipes are going to show the most improvement now and then once the mods start to go on? What is the durability and quality of the Shearers? Also, where do the Paul Turners fit into the whole mix of things? Mods that will be coming sooner are K&N clamp-ons, jet kit, and probably bump up the timing a bit. Later (quite a bit later) will be most of the more expensive kinda things, like porting, etc.

Are the pipes still available? If so, can you send some pics of them to dunatik@gmail.com

Ditto about location, I just about freak when I see the prices from the midwest to the east. My son and I bought a used Banshee, that needed LOTS of work and the lowest one we found that ran good was $2500! I live in WA state and it must be the west coast thing with the dunes (Oregon to California) because when we were shopping, 87 and 88s were going for $3500! I wouldnt ask for under $4000 for our now if I had to sell it!

Wonders never cease...can anyone be more stupid? We just go back from some duning in Florence Oregon, the tail end of spring break for my son. On Saturday we decide to go on one last run before we packed up. The weather was nice and we decided to go to Comp Hill to see what was going on. As we left the campground, my son was on the Banshee when this helmetless dude on a YFZ 450 was jumping a ridge of sand, you could tell he hadn't been riding a while since he almost augered the 450 as he crested and landed nose down in the sand (this 450 had fullbores and a dual exhaust, some $$$ into it) then he decides like he wants to "race" a little, well rule No. 1 is never follow a Banshee too close at the top of a hill, guy got plastered with sand as my son ripped the throttle at the top. Well "dorkweed" goes barreling past. As we get to comp hill, guess whos there? Dorkweed again. Helmetless goes down to the start area, wheels the bike around, hits his front brake and the bike flips OVER him and lands on his back (in front of LOTS of people), then after a few seconds he gets up, turns around, gives the the gas and this time flips the 450 BACKWARDS and it lands on him again. To make matters worse, my 15 yr old son goes down and blows his behind away up comp hill with the Banshee. We really wanted to follow him to see what he would do next...Just because you have the $$$ to buy a quad, doesn't mean you can RIDE a quad. My son has been riding since age 4! Saturdays are always good entertainment at comp hill!

The first number is the DIAMETER of the tire, the bigger the number the taller the tire. The second number is the WIDTH of the tire. The third number is the DIAMETER of the RIM. The .125, .160 and .190 are the thickness of the material (in inches) of the wheel. So .125 is the thinnest/weakest (for casual riding) the .190 are the thickest/strongest (jumping). Tire diameter can definately affect acceleration and/or top speed. Shorter diameter (say a 20) will give you quicker acceleration, less top speed in the LONG run. Taller diameter will overall give you a little less acceleration and higher top speed. Shorter diameter will generate more wheel speed, especially with paddles in the sand. Since I mostly ride in sand, I recommend going with the SKAT TRAK haulers 20X10X10 9 paddle.

AMSOIL 0W40 4 stroke synthetic, no friction modifiers for the clutches, flows easy - great stuff. Use it in the Banshee, Blaster and 2 Warriors with no problems at all. For quantity, if you just change the oil (drain plug), 1.6 quarts, if you remove the side cover and change clutches 1.8 quarts.

Depending on how old the cable is, replace it with a new one (I prefer the MotionPro Terminator). I thought the problem with my clutch was the heavy duty springs so I went and ordered a EZ pull clutch perch. Still was a hard pull. Put on the new clutch cable and what a difference! Now with the EZ pull perch, the pull on it is easier than my Warrior....

So what really causes this, I've got a 92 and happened once last year so I popped it back in place (after going home) then put a washer between the shifter and the stator cover (per Banshee HQ:)). It happened a couple of weeks ago at the dunes and fixed it in my trailer. But what CAUSES the problem. My thought was to replace all the parts, if thats the reason.... thanks

Amsoil Dominator 40:1! No joke, no smoke....smells minty!

Can anyone explain why the shift star disengages? It happened once last year, we rehooked it up and we put a washer between the shifter and the stator cover to keep the shaft from moving. No problems until this past weekend when it happened again. Fixed it at the dunes, but why does it happen? Do I need a new shift shaft and/or springs and parts? What about the new aftermarket Shift Pro for the Banshee, does it work/help this problem out. THANKS!

Rocky Mountain ATV (rockymountainatv.com) out of Utah K&N clamp ons with outerwears $59.99 Armadillo water bottle relocator $14.99 Shipping ?? I live in WA state and get parts delivered in 2 days.....great customer service!

Yes, works great, used it almost a year now. Never overheated in all the riding thru summer in the dunes in Oregon. Not very hot most of the time in Oregon, even in the summer, but lots of wide open running without any problems. I don't think though its better than engine ice though. Amsoil is mixed 50/50, made with propylene glycol, not ethylene glycol so it has lower toxidity. Its purple too!

My son and I use Amsoil Dominator (was called 2000 Racing before I think) in our Banshee and Blaster between 40 and 50 to 1 (the instructions call for 50:1). Runs SUPER, hardly any smoke and smells minty! We did run a tank full of Yamalube for break in though. None better!

Takes some getting used to, I know, always had 4 strokes and it was pretty eye opening that my son whos been riding a blaster rode my banshee better than I did (and still does). Definately stay away from the short shifting, once you get on the pipe and keep her wound up, the beast will give you the biggest freakin rush on 4 wheels you can imagine. First ride I had on the banshee, even short shifting, scared the crap out of me (but what a rush) cuz the pull never ends. You can tell by the sound of the exhaust and the feel of the motor when its about to hit. Just keep it a gear lower than what you think it should be in on the trails and you'll be okay.

Did you remove the "shim" piece that is mounted on the swingarm for the stock roller? If not the slider wont come close in fitting together because the diameter is not correct. You shouldnt have to sand the hole to "make it fit". The piece is part number 42 on the rear swingarm parts breakdown sheet linked below. http://216.37.204.206/alba/Yamaha_OEM/Yama...e=13&A=219&B=22

Honestly, if you are coming from Montana, don't waste you time driving to Moses Lake, it aint worth it, go to St Anthony in Idaho, closer to you, and ALOT more sand! http://www.dunereview.com/saintanthony.htm

If you live in western Washington, spend the time to go down the coast to Oregon and go to Florence (6-7 hours south from Puyallup via motorhome). Moses lake is good for putting but there really isnt anything there challenging for very big. It seems in some areas there is still ash from Mount St. Helens in the sand. Ffor some serious sand riding, head to Florence, Winchester Bay or Coos Bay (not Sand Lake!) for some REAL fun in the REAL sand.

Cascade-Innovations.com / Cascade in Oregon had/has them for $30....

The Cascade slider goes on the swingarm, the upper roller is not where the slider goes. If you want to replace the roller on the swingarm: Remove the nut on the swingarm bolt, then the washer and bearing cover, remove the old chain roller, then you have to remove a sleeve that is actually on the swingarm tube that the upper roller butts up against. Then the Cascade slider goes on over the swingarm tube (make sure that the sleeve gets removed or the Cascade slider wont go on far enough!). Bolt back up an go. Works great.

http://cascade-innovations.com/links/vinylacc.htm See seat cover chart for colors - AWESOME work

I think as long as you have the frame sandblasted for the primer to really adhere and paint with a good auto paint followed with clear you should be okay. I had my frame sandblasted, then powdercoated Mysty Lava (met gray) and clear along with the carrier and swingarm for $210. All I had to do was remove all the oil and grease beforehand. My stock a-arms are painted with commercial grade met gray that was close to the powder paint. I had the powderpainter sandblast them $25, then I applied a self etching automotive primer, the paint, and 2 - 3 coats of clear (u-pol #1 brand). Not cheap, the primer and clear must have been $30. I tried to paint the swingarm first with Hammerite, but if you don't sand the metal for the paint to adhere, believe me it comes off way to easy! Luckily I ride in the sand, and so far the paint is holding up great.

But I still need to hold the clutch boss inside the basket to get the nut off. I need an idea of how to hold the boss so I can get the nut off.