banshee_kid350

Good news I got the CDI put it in and have spark. Put it all back together and went on a long ride. Everything works good. Wish I had gone with my gut feeling earlier and ordered the CDI a lot earlier.

CDI ordered on monday....I hope it's gets here for the weekend. I want to ride so bad.

Okay well I do have readings coming from the stator on the digital voltmeter, as I kick the motor over voltage jumps up on the meter. I think I am going to go order a CDI today and see whats happens. I have tested everything that I can think of. Thanks for the help

I have ohmed all the wires several times hoping for a problems with a wire cause that would be the easy fix of course. I just thought since all the ohming tests check good on the stator, I could just make sure that voltage was coming out of the stator and then I would know it was the CDI. Anyone??? Someone has to have tried it before. Can you get the test light to light up coming from the stator as you kick the bike over?? It works for the lighting system but on nothing else. Anyone ever had a stator ohm out good and still have it be bad?? Just looking for some helpful advice.

So the only wire I am getting my test light to work on is the yellow wire from the stator that power the lights. Anyone ever checked voltage from the stator before? Sounded like a good way to norrow it down a little bit more than to just asume it's the cdi. Anyone??

already done that. It's right where it needs to be. I just hate to order a cdi and find out it's the stator. I want to get this thing fixed asap.

Quick question, I have no spark and I have ohmed out the stator wiring with everything checking in spec, checked all wiring in the harness,the key switch,kill switch, and coil. Everything checks good. Does anyone know which wire to test with the test light so I can see if voltage is coming out of the stator? Which wire sends voltage to the cdi? I have checked the yellow wire from the stator for the lights and my test lights works there.

Okay does anyone out their know what the yellow and black wires do for the stator? The manuel says lighting coil resistance. All of my wires test good for the stator other than this wire. Will this be enough for it not to start? Or does it run the lights or something stupid like that? I have checked everytrhing that I can thing of,key switch,kill swith,ohmed out the coil,checked pickup coil gap. I just hate to order a stator when it could be the cdi. Also I looked through the little holes on the flywheel to see if I could see any obvious damage to the stator And I can see the windings on some of the stator posts and on others it has the sealant around it still (Not sure what the correct name is). Do all of the post usually have that sealant around the windings or do some have it and some dont? Need to get this thing running again. Worst case I Just order the cdi and the stator. Any input will be very helpful thx.

I need to buy a flywheel puller so I can look at the stator I guess. Anyone know where I can buy a cheap puller from?

I have the same thing going on with my bike right now, let me know what you come up with. My coil is readings are almost exactly what you have everything checks good on the stator except the lighting coil side. Im getting .05 ohms (supposed to be 26-38) Been messing with this for a while hate to buy parts that I dont need. When you test your coil (secondary) plug wire to plug wire can you get a reading with the caps on? or do you have to take them off? Mine wont read with the caps on.

1996 banshee, went riding one day and it was fine and the next time I get on to ride shee wont run. Preformed a spark test and found no spark. I have tested everything folllowing the manual . kill switch tests it is working properly key switch test good coil test off the bike I got, primary .5 ohms manual shows should be .28-.38 secondary 5800 ohms should be 4700-7100 (testing plug wire to plug wire) I have been reading a lot of the posts about coil testing and according to everyone elses testings they have been getting around the .5 ohms on the primary side. The only thing I am not sure of is when testing the secondary wire to wire I have to take the caps off in order to get my reading of the 5800 ohms, ohter wise it shows nothing. I test the caps by themselfs and cant get a reading. Can you test the caps by ohming them out or does it sound like the caps have a problem? Now the stator tests, Yelllow to black .05 (should be .026-.038) (Lighting coil resistance) white red to white green 117.2 (should be 94-140) (pick up coil resistance) green to red 18.4 (Should be 13.7-20.5) (charging coil resistance) Everything test good other than the yellow/black wire. Not sure what the lighting coil resistance means or if this is enough to cause a no spark. Any help would appreciated, im kinda stuck on what may be the real issue here as I have a couple of things pointing that they may be the problem. Thanks for the help.

I have a 96 shee and resently I have noticed the clutch handle is getting hella hard to pull it and when down shifting the gears clash on like 3rd and 2nd and somtimes difficult shifting. When stopped it has started to lurch forward and want to die unless I pull the clutch handle all the way back to the hadle grip which is really hard to do because of the stiffness. I unhooked the cable from the lever on motor and it is really hard to push with my hand is that normal? Last summer my old cable broke so I replaced it with an aftermarket one and it has worked pretty good until now. Thanks for any help

I know this is banshee forum but I was thinking maybe someone could explane to me what the hell???? I have a 1980 suzuki GS850cc motorcycle and every spring when I change the oil in it and I will start it and and soon as I go to put it into gear it will just die like I have no clutch. so I will start it in gear with the clutch pulled back and the bike will surge forward like I have no clutch there. But when I let it start in gear and it surges forward I take off on it and than I try and shift and it wont shift up to 2nd gear but the further I ride it I will finally get it to shift up and than after about riding it for 10 minutes or so this shifts just fine . And it keeps doing this for usually about 4 to 5 days and than it never does it again until I change the oil again. I just thought I would ask to see if anyone could explane to me why it does this is my clutch on it's way out or what??? thanks for any help or input

Hey that boost bottle goes in between your 2 intakes (in front of your carbs behind the engine.) You will see a tube that is there already just remove the clamps pull it out and your bottle goes in the exact same spot

well I just put a new top end in it this spring and have only gotten a chance to take it out once I tried a plug test and they looked tan so I thought I would drop the clip one notch to raise the needle up to see how it acted and I couldnt even keep it ideling it just wanted to die. So I put it back the way it was and it ran just fine so i figured that it must be pretty close to being jetted right. And the same thing happens If I pull the choke out when it's running it just wants to die. im assuming that those are signs that it would be to rich. Or am I wrong and it will act different if I put a bigger man in???

I got a 96 shee and I have not rode it since the cold weather has came in and im wondering if anyone had an idea what mains I should slip in to make up for the cold air. I have fmf fatties,dual k&n clamp on's with boyessen pro series reeds with spacers and a noss head with 19cc domes. I live in salt lake city,utah at about 4500 feet above sea level the temp I will be riding in is going to be around 35 to 45 degrees I am currently running 330 mains and stock pilots with needle clip in middle. Another question I had was I heard that raising your needle (dropping the clip one notch) is like going up a half on the main is that true? Or is it going to run completly different by changing either? Thanks for the help

I installed a noss head with 19cc domes and a bunch of other goodies and when I took it out for the first time it ran good until top of 5th and 6th gear it wouldnt get up to where it use to, It would kinda miss so I took apart my carbs and found sand in them cleaned them out and it ran like a son of a bitch!

well im going riding right now for saturday night and sunday we"ll see if it makes a difference or not maybe it will run like ass! and maybe not

I got the boyessen pro series reeds with spacers it seems like there should be 6 gaskets with it but it only came with 4 so I put the first 2 in between the intake port (engine side) and the reed spacer and the other 2 between the intake boot and the reed cage should there be one in between the spacer and the other side of the reed any help would be appreciated thanks!

man I would say that you need a new top end rebuild. I live at about 4500 feet above sea level and i just put a new top end on my banshee along with a noss head and 19cc domes and my compression is at around 100psi

hey I live in west valley a couple miles from you I just added a noss head to my bike and I have not had to mess with the jetting at all . And if you were wondering to elevation here it is about 4500feet above sea level. I got 19cc domes with my noss head also just an idea for you id you were wondering

I just put a bunch of stuff on my banshee new top end a noss head and reeds along with fmf fatties and k&n clamp on's. I finally got it broke in so I decided to take it out today and see how she would preform. It ran strong until I got it at just passed 3/4 throttle no matter what gear the left cylinder would cut out until I let of the throttle a bit and it would be fine. I live in salt lake city at 4200feet above sea level I am running 320 mains with stock needle settings and stock pilot. I did a plug check and they are a light brown I think it's running right on with the jetting because when I pull the choke out a little bit when I ride it wants to die and I tried lowering the needle clip to raise the neddle and it wouldnt want to run like that either? does any one have any opinions on what it could be? any help would be appreciated thanks.

im trying to get the jetting down on my banshee. And the other day I thought that I would lower the needle clips one position from stock and see how it would run. When I started it ran for a few seconds and than acted like it flooded out and died than I went to start it again and it wouldnt start so I figured it was to rich. Will it die like that and not start if it's to rich? so I went in and un did what I did and put the clips back to stock and it started and ran fine. And when I pull out the choke while it's running it acts like it's going to die than I hurry and push it in and it keeps running fine. I heard thats a good way of finding out if your running lean is if you pull your choke out and ride it and it runs fine your to lean and if you pull it out and run it and it runs bad your maybe to rich? is that true? thanks

I just put my new top end together .030 over wisecos and added a noss head and boyesen pro 86 reeds and spacers along with my fmf fatties and k&n clamp ons that were already on it. But anyway when I started it up for the first time I pulled the choke and it started after a bunch of kicks and I pushed the choke back in because it was wanting to die than I pull it back out and it just wants to die at half choke or full choke does that mean that im running to rich? I never use to die before this new top end. I heard that adding reeds make it run a little richer is that true?

I did a compression test right before I tore it down. it was around 98lbs in each cylinder I went ahead I decided to do a new top end .030 over and wisecos than I ordered a noss head with 19cc domes and some boyesen pro86 reeds with spacers along with my fmf fatties and k&n clamp ons that were already there I get it all together and the compression is like 101 lbs in each cylinder my altitude is about 4300 above sea level at salt lake city why did it only give me that much more compression?? shouldnt it be a little more or not? I just hope that it is going to be more power