LeChicharon

I dont get rid of my scratches, but i clean them out with ColorBak polish. Then follow it up with Formula 2001 Super Protectant and buff it in. Its the only stuff that would penetrate my BLACK plastic and make it shine. Unlike armorall wich sits on top. Trust me. But it will depend on how smooth your plastic currantly is.

I'll buy a bottle of Klotz and see how it mixes, if no change then ill go back to blendzall. Thanks for the info on fuels

Is there anyway you can borrow some other stock carbs. Mine was runnin like shit till i "BOrrowed" some carbs and it ran great. A better way to check the carb sync is to stick your fingers in each carb and push the throttle. And feel which slid goes up first. You can look all you want and they may be still out of sync. my 2 cents

Thx for the reply. Isnt that turbo blue fuel 100 octane and unleaded? Or is that fuel from a different manufacturer? I need at least 110 so im stuck

I have been a strong believer in castor. Never had any problems with it. Exept for one. Does the klotz BeNOL have a dark enough red color so that i can tell the difference if one gas can is mixed with oil or not? I am also running 76 race fuel wich is also slightly red. Other castors like Blendzall and Maxima have no color so i get confused wich of my cans are mixed. I do have marked cans. But with three people with banshees and lack of communication somtimes ive double oiled . Is there any other castors that i dont know about???

Im goin. Does any body know the details of the new hill climb event. Is it on that first tree shot that links the first sand finger and the second, or is it just a dune???

If you are talking aboutthe actual lever or the part that it pivots on? There is a deep hole that is on the piece that the lever pivots on. there should be a spring that is placed in there, then the ball on top of that. The spring eventually wears out. So it should be replaced along with the ball and the o-ring that goes on the pivoting piece. Once thats back together line up the splines so that the kicker is straight up then, tighten the pinch bolt. Done. DO NOT put a HEAVY grease on the spring and ball. It will eventually stay compressed and your kicker will flip out when making left turns

Here is my prob. Their are two vent lines that come from the top of the radiator and go on the right of the bike. Yamaha welded a D-piece on the right side of the frame and the tubes just end there. So when coolant comes out of the vents though rarely ever does, it goes all over my exhaust. Can I rout (spelling) these lines 2a splitter and to my overflow bottle on the back of the bike

I heard this from my neighbor across the street. ANd i didnt beleve it till i tried it.

Now for most duners and people that want their bike looking great. You may polish your aluminum. Every Weekend! Mabe? Heres something that might cut down on the time. I use Heavy Metal Polish (light Abrasive). I have not tried this with Mothers or Blue Magic (the big brands) Using the polish do as u usually do. Polish the wheel or "piece" until it turns black. Make sure you get every nook and crany on the first go around or u have to start all over!!! Really work it in. Now instead of buffing off the residue. Take HOT thats HOT water with a tiny bit of liquid soap ie Dial not a moisturizing soap. On a clean rag. And wipe off the residue with that. Then take another clean rag and dry of the peice. This is for already polished pieces that are only oxidized or heavily oxidized or cloudy. Thus giving you the same results as the dreaded buffing off the residue. Hope It helps!

Here it Is Fugly as hell

Just play with your air screws. And Idle screws. Once i get a cheap digital camera i can show you step by step. I got 28mm keihins. On the right side of each carb there is 1 black screw with a spring on them. These are your idle screws. To tell if they are "even" check your lifters, throttle plates, whatever you want to call them, make sure they are even. You turn them out (screws) lowers the plates(decreasing the idle), turning them in (screws) lifts the plates (increasing the idle). Turn each screw on each carb at equal intervals. It may be hard to get to the screw on the left side carb. I used a screwdriver like a mini socket wrench type thing. Then you may have to adjust your throttle response to get the "bog" out in your bottom end. Facing the left side of the Banshee on the left carb. On the bottom right you will see a screw that is below flush. Turn them all the way in. DO NOT TORUE!!!!! Start the bike and set your low throttle response. Turn them OUT a half turn. on each carb. Keep doing this until your response is right!!! I hope dis helps

First post all right. Ill get a pic of my bansh later. I would make sure you would have some sort of an air box. A buddy at florence tried to hydroplane a little pond with those clamp ons. Water got sucked in and WHAM!!! the front end came down so hard.