sandman4free

I eneded up running a 155 main and a 50 pilot needle in the middle clip. the response is fantastic, it actually pulls harder than what I remember from stock. thank you for everyone who contributed.

I eneded up running a 155 main and a 50 pilot needle in the middle clip. the response is fantastic, it actually pulls harder than what I remember from stock. thank you for everyone who contributed.

Lepew I like the clean look. I figure I have about 300$ into my arms and thats Needle bearings,heims,uni-balls, steel and tie rods. plus the custom made parts I made myself or had made for free. I figure the set I made is about the same as the roll design arms, so guessing I saved about 1k. I'd love to go into production but the liability is what is holding me back. I will get some pics today and try to get them sent or loaded.

funny thing, you mentioned the machienining and forgot I had some hi miss alignment spacers made for the uniball and upper heim. I also machiened a set of cone washers myself to go into the stock spindle, real slick and supports a 3/8" bolt upper and lower. have a cad drawing for that but it's in autocad 2000. my pc won't support 2007 it's old. I guess all in all it isn't going to be easy unless you have a lathe handy or know someone who does.

cool it would help me alot also while you were at it did you happen to notice what needle and clip position you are running?.....maybe I am just asking too much

cool, thanx for the starting point now just need to get them in and start the process.

158's on a ported bike so maybe 150's on a stocker, happen to remember the pilots?.

that would require me to remember how to upload pics to my web site. not to mention the fact that my service is no longer compatable with my web page program. I'll work on it though.

I built my own A- arms with uniballs on the bottom and heims on top. the hardest part will be getting some 1" chromolly tube with a .120 wall and having it machiened to fit the bearings or rubber grommits. that material is only used on the frame mounts upper amd lower so maybe 5-6 feet should cover it. my jig table is just basic I made a tab mount for the stock arms, then marked the center of the stock ball joints then just go from ther +2 +1 or whatever you want and weld a stud onto the jig. I can Email some pics if you want?.

I have a set of 28mm oko's that I decided to install in the wifes bike, I just don't know where to start and I can't seem to get anyone who already has them to chime in. her bike has t-5's aftermarket reeds and manifold, and a k&n filter, so pretty much stock. we are right at sea level also. any help would be greatly appreciated

trying to find out what jet sizes you guys are running on these carbs. just a base line to start from would be great.

those that have the 28mm carbs and a stock bike minus pipes and filters, what jetting are you running?. I have been looking at these but just want a ballpark on the jetting sizes. thanx in advance

pro-x is the same as OEM just under a diffrent name. I only use pro-x pistons and never had a problem.

I have the IMS tank, the fit with the bars is bad. I went to tag T2 bars and it did not help had to go to a roll stem to get it to work right. on the wifes shee it fits pretty good with stock bars and clamps with the IMS tank, I do have to move it around some to get all the holes lined up. reserve on this tank is around 1 gallon of fuel.

yes you can do it yourself, the stock gear is rivited to the the basket so you have to drill out the rivet head and knock them out. you will need some red locktite though, duncan bumped up the torque spec on my bolts to 8 ft/lbs. oh almost forgot put the gear into the hub then install the rubber disks....I fought wioth this for at least 15 min before I got smart. hope this helped.

I have the garmin gps 5 and it has a bar mount, paid for it's self on the first trip out.....friend crashed bad and was able to give quardinates to the rangers to go get him. btw he is paralised from the waist down now. paid 400$ a few years ago but have seen the price @ 250 recently.

thanks for the honest reply fastoys, duncan is 10 min from the house so that just makes sense to me, but I will keep an eye on them. for what it's worth they also recomend top end service at 50 hrs I went 6 years......

my understanding was that it helps with throttle response, by storing a small fuel/air charge, not to gain any more power. and that won't show on any dyno thait I know of.

what didn't you like about the pyramid reed valves I just put them in both quads?

I just noticed that my builder does recomend the BR9EIX, I am guessing it reduces the heat in the combustion area helping to reduce some detonation.

I run the IMS 5.5 gallon tank stock bars and stem seem to clear ok, my tag T2 bars hit at the clamp....but that is going away this week. roll stem going in$$$$. I ride all desert and can pretty much go all day without filling up. it is big and bulky but I don't race so that does not matter to me.

sounds more like a tors problem, try dis connecting the tors unit under the tank on the left side and see if it still has a bog. if that does not fix it I would look at the coil.

you could do it in a day if you had all the parts ready to go, I am almost finished with the wifes shee rebuild, went way faster than I would have thought. I also made my own leak down test rig over buying the motion pro unit. if I would have had all my ducks in a row a one day build would be no problem. mine ran around 500$ for a bore, 2 pistons,bearings,and top end gasket kit.

I am doing a top end right now ring gap should be .018-.028" per the climer manual. her copression was 90 psi in each cylinder. it was definately time.

call duncan they should be able to give you a baseline for jetting at that altitude.