shannonpurdy

I installed a set for clearence on a set of Keihin PWK 35s and had no n oticable performance gains. Worked perfect for clearing the clutch arm but it shoved my K&N filter into the silencer pipe and had to buy a different filter with an angled inlet. Now everything fits but like I said didn't notice anything on the performance end.

I just got new pistons and they did not come with bearings either. (Wiseco P.L. from Rocky Mtn ATV) I agree with fixitrd, don't take a chance bearings are cheap compared to a crank!

Check out Rocky Mountain ATV. Wiseco pistons are $65 ea for any size (Ijust bought 0.050" over last week. Local shops get upward of $75 to $95 depending on size. If you need a gasket kit I think they go for about $15. If you ned to get them bored and or honed shops usually charge $40 to $50 a hole (around here anyway) or you could do it yourself and save a little cash.

Actually, Yamalube is a very good oil Really? I have always been told it was the lower end of a middle of the road oil. Kind of like buying a computer from a company that specializes in camaras.

Depends on the ratio you are after! Why use Yamalube???? There are much better 2 stroke oils out there to make your shee happy!

Does anybody have a picture of the kit Meat sells. I have an '87 with J arms. I have bent them twice and have several for spares and have staightened a couple. It sure is a pain! I have seen some retro fit kits that look like shit. I would be interested in converting to a arms with a solid kit. Let me know.

I hear ya. When I go to the dunes I go to ride. Don't get me wrong, I love working on my bike but not when it is time to ride. Controling the air flow sounds like it would be alot easier thandealing with the pre-mix mess. Any suggestion on how to do this without an airbox? I run K&Ns and O/Ws with no box.

I was reading in the FAQs section about jetting. I can see how temperature would have an effect on fuel air mixture, but who wants to rejet for a 20-40 degree tempertaure difference? I also know that your pre-mis can effect the fuel air mixture. Lets say at 60 degrees you jet with a 32:1 mixture and as temperature rises during the summer months to 85-95 degrees you switch to a 40:1 pre-mix with the same jets. It makes sense to me, you guys see any holes in my theory?

I used the 1000 degree paint for an old set of Toomey pipes I had. I know the temp doesn't run that high but I didn't know how good the paint was either. I ran the pipes for quite sometime before I built my trinity motor and the paint never came off. I was impressed.

I have a set of reed valve spacers to put on my banshee. I need them to move my carbs back farther because of contact between the bowl and the clutch arm actuator. I have heard they are a gimmick much like the boost bottle. Is this true? What difference does it make if it is put between the reed cage and the jug vs. between the reed cage and the intake manifold? I have heard different storines from different people. What do you guys think.

I painted mine with high temp ceramic paint. I also painted an old set of Toomey's with the same stuff. Worked well for me. This psint can be found at just about any auto parts store. Temps vary from about 300 degrees up to 1000 degrees. Good luck

Would be cool to meet some of you guys. I have been following several of your forums. Not commenting to often. Still trying to get a feel for the site. We have about 15 guys going snake hunt weekend from KC. We are all leaving Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday for the weekend festivities. We usually camp at the north end and just take it real easy on the paved road. Like I said would be cool to meet some of you guys. Let me know how to get in touch.

Missed last year due to failed crank. Went later in September. Had awesome time. We have about 15 people going this year. Leaving Tuesday night or Wednesday morning to get some riding in before the partying starts. We always camp out, it is definately the only way to go. MN is an awful long way. We have a 6 hour drive from KC. Do you stay at the north entrance or on the south side?

When I was looking for a crank I found several Hot Rod Cranks on ebay with the option to have them keyed or trued and welded. I was going to get one until I found a local guy offering them a bit cheaper and he wanted my old crank as a core. He was sending them to someone in Des Moines IA and having them rebuilt. When I got the crank it was true to less than .0005". Not to bad, most are trued to at least .001". Just make sure when you find one you know what you are getting before you buy it. Not a bad idea to check it yourself when you get it or have someone check it out for you before you install it.

Have used boost bottle. Shows normal scatches from being removed. Willing to sell cheap. Free shipping anywhere within throwing distance. Any takers, lol.

I have been told by a high performance accessory and porting company that the boost bottle used between the carbs is a gimmick. Is this true? I have removed mine since I have installed the 35 mm Keihin carbs because of space constraints. I do have an equalization tube between them.

I have recently rebuilt my motor with Trinity Stage 3 porting, 0.040 over Weisco Pro Lites, cool head and 21cc domes. Trinity Stage 4 exhaust. K&N filters with outer wears covers and no airbox. 35mm Keihin carbs. Stock rebuilt crank is trued and welded. I had Trinity modify my reed cages and am now wanting to replace them with after market all together. I have heard nothing but exceptional things about V Force. Recently I have heard of another valve called G3 Power Curve Reed Valve. There are some pretty impressive testimonials accompanying this product. I am after more low end power and better throttle response. I think my reeds are weak and may be attributing to my problem. Looking for advise since I am new to this 2 stroke business. Any help?