J-Madd

Squish clearance 0.045'', compression 180 psi, ring gap is ok, +5 timing, crankcase pressure test is ok. I've ran a couple heat cycles, just making sure I've covered everything before I ride. This is my first time installing a crank. BTW I installed new crank seals and a max load bearing, and running 108 octane Klotz gas. Thanks.

Here was my last jetting set up w/T5s, k&n, no lid, +4 timing, stock porting, 300 ft elev, 50 degrees temp. 350 mains needle in the middle stock pilots It was a little rich, but it couldn't be touched by any other piped Banshee I ever ran. Long story short; I disagree with Toomeys recommendations also.

The stock inner and outer hub must be pretty good. That's what Jeff sent me for my 421 Cub in progress.

You can search and find the answer. I just searched last week for the length chain for a +4 swingarm, and ran across the +6 but don't remember the length. I don't know if two master links are the best idea if you're high hp at all. The master link is the weakest link in the chain anyway; but then again it maybe ok.

I bought a billett one from magic racing a couple years ago (SRP Metals, I'm pretty sure) and it has held up great. To this day, there are no grooves of any kind on it. And yeah you have to use your stock gear. Just cut the rivets out of the stock basket to remove the gear, then bolt it to the new basket WITH LOCKTITE, and you're good to go.

You can use Noss domes with Pro Design heads, so I would assume you could use PD domes with your Noss head.

Is the cover off? The white plastic thing butts up against the inside of the clutch cover. If the cover is off, it will ALWAYS come out too far the the kicker gear will pass the idler gear.

Did you soak the clutch fibers in oil?

Yeah I just ordered a head and domes from him. BTW I didn't mention that Noss and PD domes do not fit the Phathead. That is why I had to get them to cut the domes. It's a sweet setup for stock bore, though. The head is one piece that slides over the domes. From what I remember about my other Noss head is that it has 2 pieces that more take patience to install.

Not sure about your shifting problems, but from first hand experience with both the hydraulic clutch lever, and an easy pull lever on the same motor with all HD springs, I would go with the easy pull lever over a hydraulic. My slave cylinder failed after about a year so I went with the easy pull and it feels the same as the hydraulic for a fraction of the cost.

Is the TORS black box actually unplugged? I've seen one of the TORS wires cut (not sure which one) and twisted together to bypass the TORS, rather than unplugging it. If those wires weren't twisted together, there was no spark.

I've got a "Phathead" coolhead and I asked them to make some big bore domes for a 421 Cub. I checked the squish clearance and got 0.030. I measured at the thinnest part of the solder which was all the way at the end. I had them cut some more, supposedly 0.007 and still got 0.030. I think they have sent big bore Banshee domes (for Banshee pistons), but, as I now know, you use Blaster pistons with a 421 Cub. and the dome shape is different. Can these domes that I have be used with this motor? The squish goes from 0.030 to 0.060 on the solder (outside to inside.) The local machine shop guy said he could take some more off, but thought the angle/curvature of the dome is supposed to match that of the piston. Without taking any measurements, I'm pretty sure these domes have a steeper angle/curvature than the dome of the piston. He said he could cut the dome to the angle of the piston and probably get the minimum squish clearance to be around 0.040 (which about where it needs to be), but I'm not sure I want that. I have no idea how all of this will affect performance. To be safe, I think I'll order a NOSS head and domes, but I just wanted to know opinions about these domes, if for no other reason to educate the machine shop guy and others who may have run into this problem.

Update: I'm talking about the bolts that hold the clutch springs on. I found out the problem.....the thrust washer that goes behind the inner hub was lying on my workbench. :shoothead: . Without that washer in there, the hub was so far on the shaft that the spring bolts would never get tight. It's all good now. :thumbsup:

So I can just tighten them enough so the lockout arms can still move, then let it be, even though some of them are barely (if at all) finger tight? If so, that's what I'll do. Thanks.

First I would like to mention that I have not yet used a torque wrench to see how tight I'm getting these..I don't have an allen bit for it (will do that today, hopefully). But the bolts are still very easy to turn even to the point when the weighted levers (or whatever they're called) bind to the pressure plate and don't move easily. I'm pretty sure they aren't to 7.2 ft*lbs yet when this happens. I've had to tighten many things w/my torque wrench to those specs (i.e. YFZ cam journals) and they were much tighter than what these bolts seem to be. Thanks for any help.

Thanks for all the info. I'm still trying to decide what to do.

Since I'll have my motor apart to build a 421 Cub, I've been reading about the infamous Duneable override. Does anyone sell this with a core charge where I can install it and then send them my stock transmission? Or is this something that has to actually be installed by the pros? I've got a lockup and modded shift star going in. I actually had no trouble shifting my 392 Cub at all with a stock transmission, shift star, F.A.S.T. clutch w/out lockup, so if the duneable override has to be machined from my stock parts I'll probably pass. I don't want to wait a couple months or whatever if it's not a necessity.

I've ridden my Cub in trails, it's just not fun :: , and your riding on a bunch of money you don't get to enjoy; but it's worth it to go on a few trips to wide open areas or dirt drags occasionally. I ride my YFZ in the trails mostly and leave the Cub parked until I go somewhere else. 4-stroke + Cub= best of both worlds to me!! :biggrin:

I second that. I'd also take off the air filter(s) and look at the slides. If by chance the cable's in a bind or something, the slides could be open too much or maybe out of sync. If the slides are too far open it will never start kick starting. What do the plugs look like after you try to kick start it? Wet or dry. Dry=clogged pilot, too small pilot, etc. Wet=slides open too far,etc. But....................on second thought it would try to idle to the moon after you pull started it if the slides were open.................Yeah clean the pilot jets.

Yep, me too. I like the easy pull lever better than the Magura Hydraulic clutch. My slave cylinder went out on it after only a year. $200 + down the drain IMO. Better off with the easy pull lever.

I had that problem and tried all jetting combinations, different carbs, checked everything, and finally replaced the stator just to rule that out, and it fixed it. I think your problem is electrical, since it ran fine when you got it. High rpm miss exactly described my problem, and it was worse when it got hot.

I'd change the plugs. Cleaning them really won't help if they're fouled. Check the obvious stuff: make sure the fuel line is not clogged, tors and parking brake crap unplugged, choke tube in place, air filter cleaned (as mentioned), carbs sync'd and cleaned. If it's none of those problems, check the compression; it could be time for a re-build; even fresh engines can go down quick if a ring breaks or wrist pin clip comes loose, etc.

He's disagreeing with my claim. I'd punch this mf'er in the face if I saw him. F' e-bay forever on anything. He's Chad Baker or super b(lowjob).

Thanks, that's what I thought. This guy hasn't responded to the pay pal claim yet, but I should have a great chance of a refund, I'd think.

How would these cylinders work, if at all, with a new set of regular wiseco prolites, instead of 795 series? Just getting opinions, I 've filed a claim w/Pay pal for no mention whatsoever of this being for a +4mm long rod stroker.