J-Madd

PVL I gotta box full of pvl parts. If I wasn't still running a pvl on one, I'd sell all of the crap. Oh yeah, and a NEW oem stator is ridiculous$$$; and used oem stators seem to be scarce.

14 mil is a Cheetah (593 cc) 4 mil is Cub. Tire is extreme. BTW I run 14 extremes, 84r/o on my 16Mil Cheetah. Haven't gotten a good pass down the track yet due to several issues, but it has run a 1.38 60 ft. The 16 mil Cheetah is roughly the same displacement as your DM at 610 or 611 cc. Not to say that the power output is identical.

I, too have seen little motors pull ridiculous tires, but those are an anomaly (sp?). ...and gearing and swingarm length have a lot to do with it. I have seen 10 mil DMs on ridgid chassis' with a bar run 14 staggereds, and run 3.6-3.7s. I ran 14 staggereds on both my 14 mil and on my 4mil, and loved them on both. I tried to run some 16 pdl staggered rippers 82 r/o on the stretched ridgid stock chassis in sig, and it twisted the swingarm/chassis/something and wouldn't go straight down the track. I hooked HARD with a 1.35 60 ft, but I'd have to let out of the gas a couple times in the middle of the track to keep from hitting the guard rail. I still have the staggered rippers if anyone wants to make an offer.

CLosing the gap keeps the fuel from blowing out the spark, if that makes sense. Maybe your running way too rich? Maybe your stator is weak and cannot produce a spark strong enough to jump the normal 0.018'' or 0.020'' gap???

Hope your putting that on a chassis. Go with the DM; unless your just needing something to fit in the 0-550 class.

No jetting change needed.

What kind of costumes does he sell?? :biggrin: j/k, I couldn't resist We need to know if this is for drag racing, dune racing, or riding. IF racing, how far? I can tell you what works for me in 300 ft on the track but that won't help ya at the dunes, with no wheelie bar.

What have you ridden before? Your gonna have to rev a Banshee a little more than a 4 stroke, or let out real slow on the clutch to get it moving. I doubt there is anything wrong with it.

It'll rev up but not pull. It shouldn't hit 10,000 rpms in every gear instantly. If it does that, your clutch is fried.

I've copied and pasted some info I've given in the past: If you choose to convert your carbs, sending them to someone else is not necessary. Drill that main and dump tube out to 0.120'' but not bigger than 0.125''. You'll have to run a bigger pilot jet also. I run 0.125 on my 4 mil and 0.120 on the stock stroke Cub. Make sure you have egn needles. You just have to tune with the powerjet. Start with it all the way out, and turn them in at about 1/8th at a time until it clears out, and I'd just leave it there. It'll still be rich, but safe. Use either b9es, br9es, or br9egv plugs. (basicly any "9" plug). Make sure you have a pingel and your gas cap drilled out...and increase your timing to 7 or 9..some run more timing than that.Don't forget to purge..and check your plugs often. With alky, black porcelain is bad, indicating too much heat.

I used tape like suggested in the directions, but I can't see where its possible to adjust the spacing. 2 of the bolt holes are not slotted, leaving not room for adjustment. When you tighten it up, it will have the same spacing regardless of how much tape is wrapped around the flywheel, or how thick of a business card is used. When I'm out of spare parts and my PVLS have all grenaded, I'll be done with them. I'll keep using them for now.

Difficult to tell on gravel unless its slipping very badly. Get on some pavement or other better hooking surface and it's easy to tell. Even on gravel sometimes you can let out of the gas and get back into it and a mildly slipping clutch will engage and stop slipping. You can hear the difference in rpms if this happens.

That's a good price. I think the pjs themselves cost almost $50 - $75, but I really don't remember.

The pipes are probably hurting the top end. GO up on the mains and see if it runs better. If it runs worse, then go the other way. Do a WOT plug check also.

You can unplug the TORS without changing the carb tops. It sounds like its your parking brake rev limiter. Make sure the parking brake is not on, or unplug the sensor. That'll fix your problem.

No.

I agrree with wes. If anything, you may be a tad rich with the lid on. Take the lid off and you'll need a 170+ main jet. I'd get the ncvq needle (stock YZ needle) (2nd or 3rd clip from top) as well and do the cam mod. That's all you need on the yfzs.

What's up with the big tank on the front of it in that first pic? Is that to keep the front end down??? j/k Looks great man.

I hate PVLS, even tough I still run a couple. BTW, how do you adjust the spacing of the stators around the flywheel? There is no adjustment, as 2 of the bolt holes for each stator are not slotted. I never did figure that out.

How does it run? Does it start easily (with choke)? Sounds small, but if it ain't broke.......

I have only a cleanup port, and no case porting on my 421, and it runs 4.0s - 4.1s all day long in 300 ft with 185 lb rider (plan on getting into the 3s next time out if the track is good). I don't know that it would pick up my e.t.s with porting. I'd just bolt it on and go for what your doing. Btw, I've had some bad luck riding Cubs WOT on long roads. I couldn't really cruise because it leans out at half throttle (this could probably be fixed with a different needle, I guess). If you go WOT for a few seconds, then eventually have to let out, again it will lean out. I locked a 392 and 421 up like that before I decided to only drag race them.

That gear is never engaged to anything except when kicking it. What do the other gears look like (on the basket and primary gear on the crank [behind water pump drive gear])? If the shaft was bent, I'd think you would have bad wear on those gears. Are installing both thrust washers, and bushing correctly?

Yeah, I'd replace it...or at least get a new bushing for it. I wouldn't let it stop me from riding this weekend, though. I've had those clips come off several times, and only once did it actually damage anything. The one time was a nightmare, though....idler gear came off and bound between the clutch basket and case, then shot the lockup throught the lexan side cover onto the track at the staging lane, then I coasted past the 60 foot mark.

I don't have pics right now, but you can check out pics of the other kit that is currently for sale. It is identical to that. $250 shipped. Paypal only. Will get pics if necessary.

I used to have one. I actually loved the design. Only a couple o-rings or so. Much easier than a Noss head to install. BUT when I called them to order domes for a 68 mm Cub, they didn't know what a Cub was. They tried to machine some domes for me, but they were for Banshee pistons, not Blaster pistons that the Cub runs. I still have some bb 20 cc domes and I think some 22 cc domes for that head i'd sell very cheap. If your just gonna run stock cylinders, I'd say it's fine.