bdrracing

Add displacement on a stock stroke and the results will be disappointing for the dollar. Increase your port timing and you will gain HP at the expense of torque. Torque is what you want for your style of riding. The best way to acquire torque and HP on a shee is to add stroke. If your cylinders are stock or mildly ported now a stroker crank is your best option. For $800.00 to $1400.00 You can build a 4mm or 7mm long rod or a 10mm short rod motor with enough torque to pull your socks off. That includes port matching and custom cut domes for a cool head or custom cut your stock head. Triple ext porting would be extra but that would get you even more! Talk to Bill at Shortys Racing 503-463-6406. A little research can pay off BIG. BDR

I'm looking for a CR 500 parts motor. But all I raely need is a set of case halfs, If they are broken in the trans area, thats fine. BDR

Yes

Looking for a used EGT setup for a twin or triple cylinder motor. Thanks BDR

I need Two CR-500 motors for upcoming go cart project. complete motors or box of parts.. what ya got?

Thanks, I'll keep them in mind but right now I need some a little better then that.

Is Thats All? LOL

I need a good Banshee Case. What ya got and how much?

CPI inframes for sure.

Take a look for crank prices and engine packages www.shortysracing.com

If your pumpen out some power get the basket with strait cut gear assy. has spings like a car clutch plate... no rubber baby bumpers.. worth every penny. BDR

Call Bill at Shortys... He sells 4 mm cranks for under $500.00 503-463-6406

A dry system has one distinct advantage. Variable progressive injection. The amount of NOS ingestion and fuel enrichment is controlled by the CFM demands of the motor at any given point. Basically, the more throttle you give the motor the more NOS and enrichment fuel is delivered A wet system can be set in stages but a dry system is totally progressive Also auto compensates for temp, alt, and bottle psi. With a meth dry system it uses the existing carburetors and fuel system for enrichment. There is nothing else to purge other then that you are normally used too. But you will get better performance using race fuel if the temp is below 75 degrees or so. I run both systems. A wet system is a hassle with meth since you have to not only plumb but also flush it's fuel delivery system out in addition to the carb system. A meth system is temperamental be it wet or dry but on a wet system you must manually compensate for changes in altitude and temp. A dry system automatically compensates for these variables. A wet system involves more parts but is less expensive then a dry due to the manifold (two manifolds on a banshee) cost. I prefer dry systems with methanol. I prefer wet or dry systems with race fuel. I prefer dry systems for bracket racing (better consistency) I prefer wet systems for heads up auto racing (higher output potential) Here is a photo of Bill (Shortys) alky burning drag bike with a dry system installed. Only two builders have been successful building, tuning and drag racing this system. Shortys and KandT. BDR Here is Bill putting the hammer down. Why do these photos have to be so small? how do I make them bigger and stay within 50K? BDR

A dry system has one distinct advantage. Variable progressive injection. The amount of NOS ingestion and fuel enrichment is controlled by the CFM demands of the motor at any given point. Basically, the more throttle you give the motor the more NOS and enrichment fuel is delivered A wet system can be set in stages but a dry system is totally progressive Also auto compensates for temp, alt, and bottle psi. With a meth dry system it uses the existing carburetors and fuel system for enrichment. There is nothing else to purge other then that you are normally used too. But you will get better performance using race fuel if the temp is below 75 degrees or so. I run both systems. A wet system is a hassle with meth since you have to not only plumb but also flush it's fuel delivery system out in addition to the carb system. A meth system is temperamental be it wet or dry but on a wet system you must manually compensate for changes in altitude and temp. A dry system automatically compensates for these variables. A wet system involves more parts but is less expensive then a dry due to the manifold (two manifolds on a banshee) cost. I prefer dry systems with methanol. I prefer wet or dry systems with race fuel. I prefer dry systems for bracket racing (better consistency) I prefer wet systems for heads up auto racing (higher output potential) Here is a photo of Bill (Shortys) alky burning drag bike with a dry system installed. Only two builders have been successful building, tuning and drag racing this system. Shortys and KandT. BDR

Reeds that do not seat could disrupt the air flow in the intakes and cause havoc with your carb air fuel mix. There is some debate on if in fact the reeds even close at higher rpm’s but if new reeds solved your fouling problem, That must be it? Chronic spark plug fouling would have me thinking jeting and or a weak ignition. I will PM some info to you.

4mm, 5mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm with stock cylinders 12mm and 14mm with aftermarket cylinders a 20mm and a 1000 cc motor on the bench with hopes of making sand mountian this spring. Whats your question Banshee Krazy?

If your reeds do not close, hard starting is one of the first signs. What kind of problem do you have wheeleymaster99? I would not advise flipping them over... they can brake and end up in the motor.. munch, munch, yum, spit,

MX Racing? I would give Shortys racing a call. Bill raced MX for years before opening a shop and drag racing bug bit him. or maybe drag racing is just easier on his old bones..LOL.. 503-463-6406