Wallrat

Do they have spark arrestors?

GPS Coordinates: Dirt road turnoff to Dumont: N 35* 41.537' W 116* 18.165' Comp hill: N35* 40.746' W 116* 13.525' Point just southeast of bathroom #4: N35* 41.371' W 116* 13.713' The last coordinate was the general area that I had scoped for a prospective camp. Since we won't actually be camping at that area, you can use it for a general reference point of which direction to head to find the bathrooms once you hit the camping area.

Go to 'My Controls' and change your signature.

Stock ones and the cheaper aftermarket variety are made out of mild steel. The nice aftermarket ones are Cro Moly or (lemme see if I can spell this right) Chrome Molybendum. Cro Moly is a far superior material.

Hmm...maybe boonman or somebody else might be able to help more with this. If I remember correctly the choke is actually like a fuel bypass on the stock carbs. Maybe they're plugged up. I'd ask one of the other guys but that's all I can think of that would give you those symptoms.

Honda fronts are the same if I remember correctly. You can modify any rim easily to fit a yamaha, but honda's are the easiest.

Dammit! I only work 2 weekends a month, couldn't you have picked the next weekend??? Oh well, have fun and throw a roost for me.

You can make them fit very easily - I got the tip from my local ATV tire guru. Just take a 3/8" rat tail file to the bolt holes. File DIRECTLY towards the center 1/10th of an inch on each hole. As long as you keep the filing straight they'll fit great. I did that with my old paddles to put them on my wife's 300ex - same bolt pattern as the 250. She's been riding for awhile now on those rims with no problems.

If you just piped it then its probably a jetting issue. Also if the gas has been sitting in there awhile it could be that too. Check the plugs to see how the jetting looks. Replace them while you're at it. If the gas is old its probably varnished. Drain the tank, clean the carbs, and add some new gas. Have you tried bump starting it by having a buddy tow ya? Just wondering if you've gotten it running at all. If you've had it running, how did it run? Also you should probably post your elevation and temperature.

Oh yeah?

PC2 instructions (pdf)

Thats alot of t&a! You're such a perv blue! Yes they are on ebay for like $10 each I think. Damn, I must be a perv too. No objections from me if you wanna donate some to the prize bin.

Uh...need some more info. Hard starting is usually due to one or more of the following: Old gas, no gas, clogged fuel line, low compression, weak spark, wrong jetting, choke problems, kill switch, mice living in your pipes... Start with the easy stuff. Remember that factory jetting only covers a stock banshee down to 60 degrees. Below that you'll have to rejet. Also if you did any mods and didn't rejet you'll be having problems. Is this a new thing or did it just start? If it just started then what did you do beforehand? Did the temperature drop? How do the plugs look? How's the compression? You'll have to do some homework before we can give you a better answer.

Pretty nice banshee for an extra one! Wish I could talk the wife into letting me get a backup shee.

I'm 99% sure that the silencers are the same for all FMF 2 stroke pipes except for the SST's (SST pipes require SST silencers). All the catalogs show the same part numbers.

Just stick em on. If your bike feels like a pogo stick then they need to be worked on.

Same here . Proper jetting is a much easier and cheaper way of prolonging your plugs. I always have 2 spares on the bike and try to keep 4 more in camp in case I have a really bad trip. I've never had a plug foul so bad that it HAD to be replaced since I got the shee. Just change it out every couple of trips to keep em fresh.

Spend $2 on some wire.

Boiling gasoline sounds scary! I've used a wire brush to clean 'em when I was a kid. Now I just keep plenty of spares handy.

Hey Holyman, given the volume of kickers that you'll probably be recieving in the next few days, what kind of turnaround are you planning on? I'm not sure exactly what you need to do your mod so how much of the assembly do we need to send? Just the kicker itself? Thanks!

Its not close. Probably 190 miles or so. You could always mapquest it. As far as driving time, it depends on how fast you drive, whether you're towing a trailer, traffic...It's all freeway travel to get there except for the last 30 minutes or so.

I hate ebayers that won't leave feedback until they've recieved yours - especially when they're the sellers! The way I look at it, as soon as I've paid, my end of the deal is done, leave me my f'n feedback! There's alot of people that do that crap. Even though they screwed up, once they see that you left them a negative, they'll turn around and give you a negative just out of spite. Dickheads.

Hey evil, remind me to hook you up next time you're here. I've got some stainless T piping at work that will probably work even with your setup. I agree on the temp gauge being the first mod you should do. Its great for preventing major damages, telling you when the bike is warmed up, and a nice indication of how mods affect your cooling system.

I asked the same thing awhile back. Here's the link to that thread: Paging MrMatt

I think that it would help, but not noticeably. Pretty much all you're looking at is that the air filter will make it an extra 10 minutes before it starts allowing dirt into the engine. If you clean your filter after every ride, or even every other ride, you'll never get it so dirty as to allow dirt into the engine - so what's the point?