Wallrat

LT's use a 19" shock.

And the sucker punch goes to Meat. Feel better now that you got the last word in?

Check w/ the guys that did your porting. They'd know better than we would.

Same problem still here, and no response via email. DD you sure they're still in business?

Lighting problems are pretty common. Bad stators...not so much. I mean it happens but its somewhat rare.

Yeah Nyuk is very trustworthy around here. He's done tons of business through the HQ and I've never heard a single complaint.

Yeah I hear ya. As the observing 3rd party I think you both need to realize that no matter what each of you says/does, you're just not gonna get along. Pretty much the only thing left to decide is who has to throw that last cheap sucker punch just so that they can feel that they've "won". Doesn't matter anyway, only result is gonna be a bunch of wasted time on the comp and maybe a sandy vagina. Whatcha say, quits? Duece - ya man I agree those things are tits! That's definately a mod in my semi-near future. Their rep had to wrestle their demo display away from me at the LA motorcycle show.

Your sister sounds hot! Got a number?

Agreed. People part out banshees simply because all the parts sold individually are worth more than the whole bike. The only way its worth doing piece by piece is if almost every part is going to be aftermarket.

Engine was running when you checked for voltage right? Also you unplugged the wires before testing?

Will do DD!

Not true meat. You tried to hijack my Axis thread this past Friday to call Walt out on all the shit he and you swapped prior to his leaving. I'm glad to see that you deleted the post before anyone else saw it, but the gauntlet was thrown. So don't try playing the innocent victim. Ok so back on topic. If you guys are having a hard time understanding this then think of a car w/ bad alignment. It pulls left or right when you aren't touching the steering wheel. This is caused by the wheels either being toed-out (left points to the left, right points right) or toed-in (like crossed-eyes). Now back to the banshee. In case you've never pulled apart your front end, I'll explain. The only thing keeping your tires pointing forward are those wimpy little tie rods (that's those things that connect from the rear of the spindles to the steering stem). If you removed those you wouldn't just not be able to steer, but your front wheels would flop around almost 180 degrees from front to back at will. Since the tie rods connect at a different location than either of the arms that the wheel pivots on, the distance the arms travel vs. the tie rods can vary. Its further from the center of the tie rod arc than it is from the center of the A-arm arc. The smaller the difference is between these two radii, the less adverse effect there will be on steering during full travel. Alot of math is involved in setting up the correct geometry needed to have zero bumpsteer. Sredish went really in depth into where the critical angles are. Well...more than I would have bothered anyway. Will bump steer adversly affect your banshee? I suppose it depends on your riding style. If you take it pretty easy and don't really use your suspension to its full extent, than no it probably won't bother you. But if that's your type of use, why fork out the $$$ for LT? If on the otherhand you're really on it, well then you decide how you'd feel landing that double with your front wheels pointing away from each other and the bike suddenly wanting to veer to the left or right (and yes it can be either direction). A steering stabilizer will minimize the effects to the extent that it will remove any jerking of the bars as well as correct for rider error in trying to over-correct, but the bike is still gonna turn when you hit a bump. Stabilizers correct for forces acting on the steering stem, which is a secondary motion when it comes to bump steer. The primary force is the tie rod traveling beyond its critical angle.

B'days peak at 21. After that its just another year older. Actually I take that back. 25 is a milestone too since you can rent cars and get cheaper insurance.

Seems like most people that buy 6's end up regretting that they didn't get the t5's. Somewhere down the road everybody decides that they want some porting.

Barnett's are only good up to about 60HP. Once you get into strokers, big bores, or drag ports you need a better clutch. Yes the new springs are heavier. Yes you can alternate springs.

Did the place that bored your cylinders use the actual pistons that you were installing? Just cuz the piston has 65.00 stamped on em doesn't mean they're exactly 65.00. That's one idea. Other idea is you didn't check your ring gap.

I've got the same impact as you (cept I got mine on sale for $35) and I had to sit it on there for a few seconds the first time I pulled my flywheel. I made my own brace out of some scrap metal. Basically it was a banana shaped piece of flat bar w/ a straight piece welded to the end to rest on the ground. Then I welded a couple nubs onto the banana to drop into the flywheel holes. Had to leave the impact on there for a good 10 seconds before it finally gave way. When I put it all back together I put some grease on the threads and used a torque wrench to make everything the proper torque. Now I can get by w/out my goofy banana tool. Here's the sockets I use: China Sockets

I agree. $10 your carbs are gummed up. Just take em off one at a time so you don't mix up the pieces.

Might be the stator, but could also be the switch or the wiring. I'd check those first to save some cash. If you look at the wire harness coming out of the stator you'll see 2 free wires - one black, one yellow. Test the voltage on those (they're AC btw). If you've got voltage then it isn't your stator.

Clicky clicky Just in case any of you are looking for one of these. Bid away! (I need the money) Haha.

...and you little missy, can suck on my fuzzy nutsack.

Don't worry folks. I don't mind a hijack that is full of useful information. Now if somebody comes in here and wants to start some shit then that'll get under my skin... Justin did you talk to Todd directly yet like I suggested? I agree that it sounds like a nitrogen leak. I'm far from an expert on shocks but noticeable fade from one trip to the next sounds like more of an issue than just oil getting gummed up by normal use. Maybe DUNEDEMON knows, can you just stick a pressure gauge on the ressy to measure if you've still got nitrogen? I think a drive out to Lake Elsinore and a meeting w/ Todd directly will get alot more accomplished than just talking on the phone to one of his flunkies. He could probably test the shock while you wait and get you a definative answer to your problem. Just ask when you talk to him. Another question - I've got nitrogen here at my work so I'm thinking that it might be worth it for me to snag some regulators so I can service the shock myself. What kinda PSI are we talking about here?

Race gas is just the term given to any higher than normal octane fuel. Some areas premium is 93, others its 91. I've seen "race gas" as low as 94 octane. Octane is just a measurement of how resistant the fuel is to lighting off. Higher the number, the higher the ignition point. The point of running higher octane is so that you can run more aggressive timing and higher compression without detonation (that's where the fuel explodes just from the compression and not the spark).

Ya ya...that figures. I'm around all week - just don't call me in the mornings since I'm working occassional night shifts. Anytime after noon is fine.

Hmm...number on their website is bad. I sent em an email.