SHEEBANSAVAGE

Thanks!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great thanks. Does that sleeve that’s on that line go on the outside or inside of the clutch cover? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys. I’m in the process of installing a new water pump in the banshee and have a quick question The small breather hose that’s inside the clutch cover leaves the case and connects to the T under the carbs. Where that hose leaves the case, is there a supposed to be plug there or something to keep water/ dirt from entering the case? Looks to me something should be there. There is what looks like a sleeve over the tube inside the case? Is this supposed to go in that hole? Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. I’ll give it a test or replace. Appreciate the help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys!! Pretty sure it was trans oil. I am planning on doing WP etc anyway so that cover has to come off. I haven’t checked the vents yet but will and post back Temp wasn’t warm outside at all. I wasn’t pushing the shee but still was spitting coolant when on the throttle a bit in hill climbs etc. This happens when trail riding when hot out and not much air flow as well. My plan was to change WP impeller, bearing, and seal etc. drain coolant and do engine ice and try again. Since I will have that side cover off, put a new gasket on and oring. Anything else??? Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys, I was riding the Oregon dunes earlier this year In May on my banshee. After the first day or so I noticed oil leaking from where the clutch cover side meets the engine case on top. I’ll get a pic later if needed. I didn’t have to add any oil to the transmission the entire week. I first thought the gasket was bad and it could be coming up through the bad gasket but after thinking about that for a bit, there is probably something else it could be. So before I order and change that gasket, has anyone ran into this problem before and what was the fix I also had antifreeze spitting out the front overflow tube as well. It wasn’t even that hot so maybe these two problems are related. Any ideas? Thx. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks man. Carbs are clean!! Thx. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply. Since I already have the 280’s in already, I’ll give her a go and do a plug check on the first ride to see what it’s like. I have 300’s with me and ready to go. Cheers, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply. I live in the lower mainland but the banshee is used up north at the family cabin. Ill be in the dunes after your trip is done. I did some research and called a couple places about jetting. Since I’m running stock airbox with lid on and a uni filter, I was told to run 280’s. They told me if I was running a K&N and no lid, run a 320. Does that make sense ???? Thx Again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys, I have an 03 shee and it has FMF fatty’s with turbine core 2 silencers, uni filter, boyesene power reeds, stock air box, +4 timing plate. Stock motor. It’s been so long since I rejetted this thing cause most of my riding is at 3500ft. I can’t remember what I have in the carbs for jets. I believe I have 27.5 pilots, needle is middle position but can’t remember the mains. In a couple weeks I am making my first trip to the dunes in Oregon. What jetting should I set this banshee to? I will be running paddle tires as well. I’m planning on pulling the carbs tomorrow and rejetting Any help is appreciated. Thanks !! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys, I currently have my shee set up for riding at 3500ft. It runs well. It’s been like that for years now. So much so, I forgot what mains I have in it. Lol I have a trip planned for a lower elevation of 2200 ft and maybe a little higher. It’s not a boys trip or a trip where I will be pinned wide open. Will be riding with the kids/wife and family friends. Would I need to rejet the main for this elevation change? I am basically one day going to be riding at 3500 and the next 2200+!!! Mods are FMF fattys, turbine core 2 silencers, boyesene reeds, snorkel removed, uni filter, +4 timing. Stock Carbs are 27.5 pilot, middle clip position, air screw 2.25 turns out and can’t remember the main size. Lol. Stock carbs, tors carb tops still on but tors deleted otherwise. Thanks for your help!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys. Rode it for a couple days and no issues. One ride would have simulated the exact same scenario when it quit on me last week. Looks like it might be fixed. The true test will be when I ride with a buddy and put some serious miles on. Thanks again!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the new parts are installed and i think it started better than ever. Heading out on Monday so hopefully all works well Thanks for everyone’s help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All oem Yamaha parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Water doesn’t seem to be an issue and I was intentionally trying to hit water fast to try and duplicate the problem. As for heat on the coil, that maybe it. I tested it again this morning and it’s barely with in the limits of .28 to .38 ohms. (.4 ish). So I heated the coil up a little bit and the resistance kept dropping to next to nothing. .1 to 0 ohms. So I have ordered new plugs, coil and boots and will try it out next week. Tonight I will pull the stator cover and check everything in there out Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so I tested all of the above mentioned. The stator tests ok The coil secondary leads are ok The coil primary resistance is 0.8(terminal to terminal) The boots vary 1 is 9600 ohms 2 is unreadable??? So I have 2 questions... The internal resistance to my meter is .5 ohms. Do I subtract the meter resistance from the indicated resistance of 0.8? If so the coil is good. 0.3 ish. If not coil is shot. Second. One plug boot is unreadable. Could that cause the problem? I didn’t have spark when it died on either plug but maybe I didn’t get a good connection on that particular side For now I will change the boots and do you think change the coil or not? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys, My banshee died this past weekend after a trail ride. I pulled the plugs and no spark. Then a couple mins later it started and ran ok. Then about another 5 miles it ran great and as I was going around some water and it died again but started again after a few kicks. Then it died again in about 20 ft and would not start again. We towed it for a few miles and while under tow it would not jump start or kick start. Then a short while later it started fine with the kick starter. I then drove it down the road wide open throttle and it seemed like it could not get going as fast as it should but I was still moving pretty good. Next day, it started and ran good but at once I thought it was going to die but it never did. When I got home, I pulled the tank etc and looked at the wiring and nothing was chafed through that I could quickly see. The only thing I noticed was a broken ground wire at the voltage regulator. Not sure whats it for but the bike runs fine with it broken. Tonight I am planning on doing a stator test cold and warm and see what the readings are. Anyone have any other suggestions. 2003 FMF fatty's, B-reeds, Adjustable stator plate with ricky stator pick up coil, TORS removed.

I have changed them several times over the years but not too much lately. The banshee doesn't get the use it used too. The swing arm left side where the bearing sits is a little bigger than it should be due to a blown out bearing before. I think this is why I go through bearings faster than most. I am interested in the delrin bushings and will look into that as well. Seems like people like pivot works so far

Hey guys, I have to replace my swing arm bearings again and was curious what brand you guys prefer. I have used pivot works in the past as well as OEM Yamaha. Seems the Yamaha lasted longer. Whats your preference. Thanks in advance

Took it apart today and it was a plugged pilot jet. Weird cause I just cleaned both carbs in April and no rides since. Runs good now and the left has less smoke than the right. Lol

Hey all, My 03 shee has developed a lil problem. Today was the first day I rode it for quite some time. Cleaned the carbs in April. Haven't been riding since. Popped a little in the garage when ran . Riding today with kid on and popping and farting at low speeds. So I adjusted the air screws to 2 3/4 out, snorkel off and I'm at 3400 feet. It's still popping out the right side. Also it's putting less smoke out the right side. As I give it throttle it comes alive like normal. I have done nothing to troubleshoot it as I am away from home in vacay and have limited internet access. Any suggestions? I will put new plugs in later tonight I would like some help as I am have a ride coming up in 2 days and I need it to run ok Help please Thx in advance Sent from my i-thingy

Hey LCW, you have a PM

Na..looked into that..Not a huge fan of the kimpex brand.."Tard"--rather not end up like you!!!

Whats paint?? I have never heard of the stuff before..Nice one smart A$$...lol Just PREFER not to paint..Thats all