sredish

Maxxis I-Razr My std Razrs (I pulled them off just after this pic and haven't used them since)

Meat. I got a nice big fat DNF! It was a freaking mudfest. From sloppy goop to carb deep water crossings and everything in between, just really nasty. At the end of the second lap, I was going for a pass and hit some water too fast, and it was deeper than I remembered. Nonetheless, i got some water in the wrong places and she started misfing and fouled out. I couldn't get her to start back up good, she'd spit and pop, so I towed her back and DNF'ed it. After about an hour, she was starting back up and running like normal. There was mud and crap caked up in the plug boots and just everywhere. So, I got most of my "pre-race routine" stuff done, except for the electric grease in the plug boots and the other right places. Didn't realize it was going to be so muddy, and couldn't find any when I got there. Oh well. Thanks for asking. I put a couple pics in the Images section.

maybe try the i-Razr. They are actually just as good on hard pack, but even better than the others in softer stuff, like sand pits. I also have a slightly used set of the standard version Razrs I'd consider selling. PM me if your intersted. They're 20x11x9's 6-ply. I have a pic of them if you want to see em. Lemme know.

Yea, I'd lean your pilot one and see how it changes things. What's your clip in? Change the pilot and get back man.

What kind of carb is it? I don't imagine the carb will run as good as the 35mm. It will probably be a little short on the mid and have a little more top. That thing is so big, it'll be hard for it to draw enough vacuum at idle and low rpms. you should be able to get it to work tho, but you'll have to go through other means. Best thing to do is to sell it and buy a 33 or 35mm, honestly. Scott

That 50 pilot is probably a little rich. back it off to a 48 and see how shee does. Where are you having problems, at idle, at full throttle? We need to know that info.

chrome fatties for around the same price is a better deal, they'll last much longer than unpainted and look a whole lot better. That's what you need man, Fatties, or used Toomey T-5's. I have a near new set I'd probably be willing to get rid of. PM me for more info.

Mine actually does better on fuel I think, but it shouldn't really use more, it will just use it more efficiently. I have the single carb and flywheel mod and I have incredilble response.

Nice Tyler.

That Sno Pro in the "For Sale" section is a killer steal, IMO. If I was anywhere around snow, I'd already have that thing in my yard. Check it out.

Not a lot, but maybe a few hp.

Alright, you guys have your fun while I'm on the road for 5 hours. Don't worry, I'll hold my tongue and be the "bigger person". That's fine if you all think sarcasm is acceptable.

Who's birthday is it again...

Kilgore, Tx. Close to Tyler, Tx, a little more east on I-20. Just found out, like 2 minutes ago, my bros wedding reception is tomorrow in Houston at 7:30. So, I've got to go from 1 hour north of Dallas to Houston, Tx tomorrow. Spend the night, then Sat. morning get up early and drive 4 hours to Kilgore to beat the afternoon races for a few laps on the course. Then sleep my ass off that afternoon. It's all good. Got all my little piddley shit done today as well, except for the jetting. I jetted up a little and got too rich, so I need to back off a little. New chain is on and i'm set.

ok ok ok.... that got me laughin.... but now i've gotta clean my screen.

yea, f'in thumpers are loud as fook!!

IMO That gearing is way too low for trails, and way way too low for open fields and way way way freaking too low for hill climbs. You'll be shifting like friggin mad with that gearing. One thing you do not want to do hillclimbing is shifting if you can help it. While you can't help it, you can sure stretch them out. Shifting slows forward motion. You'll be shifting in the trails like mad too. It doesn't sound like you have tried it, so take it from me, gearing down will limit your top end and your acceleration, while making you spin tires like mad. With T5's and the riding your describing, I'd say 15/41 without question. I guarantee that if you tried both, the 15/41 would stay.

Got my pre-printed number plates in. They look freakin good. I'll post pics of them and my seat cover and a couple other little things later. But I wanted to post a link to the mfg. of the plates. They cost me $40 and one had a very very small error on the border color but you can hardly even tell, but he printed me another and gave me both anyway. They also shipped the same day as I ordered. I ordered on Monday and got them on Thurs. You can see samples on the website. Mine are blue, with two-silver stripes around for a border. In between the silver, the blue is a little darker for accent. They look freakin good. The front plate has my last name at the top. The "freebie" was also for the front, so it has my name on the top as well and I'll probably put it on the rear if I use it. Later. Pro Graph-X

Are you still needing +2 a-arms? I don't want to get rid of mine, I love them, but I'm getting sick of worrying if I'm too wide or not. I think it affects my speed and lap times. I've got a race this weekend, I'm gonna see how it goes and make a decision next week. Remember, I have the +2 / +1 chrome LSR a-arms. Got any pics of those shocks? Scott EDIT: I also might buy some 1+4 offset wheels. They'll put the centerline of my wheel inside a tad bit more than the beadlocks I have now and then I can go wide or narrow depending on the course. Dunno. Post the pics, or email me. I've seen the arms before, but not the shocks.

I don't even try heel clickers or supermans, why the hell would I go for a f'in backflip? Yea, I jump for a little fun and maybe during the race if it's part of the course, but that's not why I ride.... to prove how tuff or how good I am. I ride for the speed and the thrill of flying through the trees at 40 mph just and see the opening and click up to the next gear and punch that baby... i see daylight! I ride for the thrill of that first place trophy, or the feeling I get when I'm pushing my hardest and I can hear that thumper on my tail just begging to pass, then I click another gear. Or giving every thing I have to finish the last mile out of the 30+ mile race just to be able to say I finished. To me, that's riding. Sure, I respect those air acrobats, they have more balls than I do but that does nothing for me, and actually, I get really bored with it after just a few minutes of watching it on Huevos. If you think that's cool or fun and it's your desire to try it, then you should. Screw what all these other people say, if you want to go for it, then do it. But are you asking for our approval, or what? It's winter, surely you can find some snow, so just go ahead and do it and then report back. Be sure to have vid or pics..... real pics.

buy an inexpensive db meter at radio shack. usually like 18 bucks or something. May not be as high tech, but hopefully will get you the info you need.

So... what's this all about.... tryin to copy me??? j/k I love my 2-1 carb setup and works awesome with the PT's. I'm also running 20 cc domes and that puts me right around the 158 mark. Stclark's cylinders would've been perfect. He sold them maybe a month ago on here They were on the 2nd set of pistons I think, with a fresh bore and a Gorr woods port. Would've been perfect. Same port I have. I was at a 210 main jet on my keihen. That's just what I put in after the rebuild, using my guesstimation as to where I thought would be good. Being concerned that I may still be a little lean, tonight I jetted up to a 215 main and whaddyaknow... nice little wet bog action at 3/4 to full. Absolutely perfect to 1/2 and push her a little more and bwaaappapapwahhhh. So, it seems my "guesstimation" was dang near dead on at 210. Now, if they just made a 212 or something. I have my timing set at +7 degrees and it kicks ass there, but I just got my Dyna in the mail so I'll be setting her back to 0 and installing that. As far as sprockets, I buy the cheap ones and I keep 13, 14, 15 fronts and 38, 39, 40, 41, 42 and 43 rears in my toolbox at all times. I hate the 13 front, and really don't like a 14 either. Once the 15 went on, it's never came off. I'll run the course, see how she feels and may come back to gear up or down if the conditions warrant it. Tonight, I put the 39 back on because I couldn't get enough slack out of the chain for the 38. Later.

Well, generally it's time to rebuild when your compression drops considerably from where it should be. Stock is around 120 or so, and when it drops to 100 to 95 OR each cylinder varies from each other quite a bit, a rebuild is recommended. When this occurs, starting trouble may be noticed or some other unreliability issues. The same occurs with high compression. If you start with 155 and after awhile you notice it's dropped to 125, then you've obviously lost compression and it may be time for a rebuild but if it's still even and running good you can keep running it if your happy with the performance. A rebuild may also be necessary if you find one has dropped considerably more than the other. They need to be even because of the crank. If one drops to 150 and the other drops to 135, then one puts considerably more pressure than the other and that can cause your crank to twist. But then, I might not have a clue on what I'm talking about.