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An adjustable stator plate gives you the ability to change your baseline ignition timing. I noticed that when I advanced mine about 5 degrees it really woke up my bottom end. Alot of people say it helps all the way across the powerband but noticed it mostly down low. It also gives you the ability to retard your timing for what ever reason like adding a turbo. Actually I might try retarding it just to see what changes. Also the 125$ Ricky stator unit kept my lights from going so dim at idle. Better than the stock unit anyways.

I have had mine for a few months now and love it. Mine is on an 89 and I also had some issues with installation however I just chose to drill a hole in the dust cover and mount the sensor with two nuts clamping it on. One bad thing is that it accumulates miles which allows you to compute the dollars per mile it costs to run a banshee. Don't do the math cuz it can be scary.

Sorry anyways the red wire to green wire should be 13.7 to 20.5 ohms. Just for GP you should know that when mine crapped out my red to green reading was at 20.6. That is a small amount but I guess that made the difference. So when you take your measurements you need to zero your leads first. Also The black wire is really a ground and it is attached to the stator with a clip at the end that punctures the insulation of the wire and is screwed to the staor frame. You may want to check that your engine is electrically connected to that black wire by ohming from the black wire to the spark plug base that is screwed in tight to the head. There are some other things to check also so if this gets you now where say so. Good luck

When mine crashed I bought the Ricky Stators unit. It came with an adjustable timing plate and it worked great. The price was 125$ which is a fabulous deal compared to what the manufacturer wants. The wattage is for the lighting only. Your CDI box controls what your coil does. The Ricky Stators unit works awesome. As for the specs you asked about. Yellow wire to black wire should be .26 to .38 ohms White/red to white/green should be 94 to 140 ohms

I used to start mine with starting fluid all the time. If I let it sit it would never start by kicking it alone and I couldn't push start it. Also one thing to remeber is that alot of two-stroke premix's fall out of suspension and will actually accumulate in the carb bowls. It might be a good idea to drain the bowls and shake the tank a bunch. Good luck

nuf sed really? What if we said it all then what would we do?

Aussie is right. I thought the same thing. Book is just wrong. I had a no spark problem with mine and basicaly replaced every single component and fabricated a new harness to fix it. It ended up being a bad stator that tested good. Let me know if I can help.

Ok so now I'm confused. First of all he asked about the difference between a 2 carb set up and a single carb set up. Secondly he asked about two 26 mm carbs versus one 33 or 35. True the stockers may be 28mm I dont remember but you could figure the math on that too.Thirdly I have no idea how these carb setups are referred to as "constant velocity". True constant velocity carbs use vacumn and pressure differentials to move the throttle valve via a diaphragm. In a CV carb there is no cable hooked up to the throttle valve. The idea is that the velocity of air travelling through the carb always remains close to the same. This design alleviates loading and leaning during large throttle changes. Take a look at a CV carb like an SU on an older Triumph or MG automobile. I personally think Trinity decided to use the the CV designation because they theorize that with one carb either one cylinder or the other is always on the intake stroke resulting in a constant intake nonfluctuating stream, not one that is stopping and accelerating in rhythm with a single cylinder. In this case they are correct but labeling it a CV carb is misleading. Lastly you are right to say that it doesen't work like that because in the stock set up the carbs really arn't doing crap during the power and exhaust portion of the engine cycle.

Just for kicks I ran some numbers on surface area of 26, 33, and 35 mm holes. It is pretty interesting. A stock shee with dual 26mm mixers has a combined surface area of 1061 square mm's A single 33 mm carb has surface area of 854.86 mm's . And a 35 mm carb bore has a surface area of 961.62 square mms With the 35 mm carb your give up 100 square mm's. So 2*26=1061 33=854.86 35=961.62 Not enough to worry about unless you run drags for a living.

I run a Trinity 33 system on my bike. I have FMF pipes and silencers inginition advanced 2 degrees and 20 cc domes in a ADA head. The first thing I can tell you is that it is nice to have bottom end on a banshee. I won't say that it pulls like a dragster right off idle but it is so much stronger that I no longer find my self winging the clutch or shifting down all the time. If I had it to do over again the CV 33 system would be the first thing I ever did to my quad. Jetting is so easy it makes me giddy to see a cold front roll in. It takes less that 45 seconds to remove my carb and put it on a bench. All that clutter crap is gone. Also I notice an increase in gas mileage. I never really wanted bottom end but I am glad to have it. One other good thing is that if you want to just stick it in 2nd and roll through the woods the bike doesn't load up and stutter or foul plugs so whenI am giving my two year old a ride things are easier. I currently have stock clutch springs and my clutch slips just about the time the power comes on in sixth gear but my trail tech computer gives me a top speed of 75.6 mph. This would easily improve by 10 to 15 mph if the damn thing would pull sixth. Down side? I would say that I lost the last 10% of the very most extreme absolutely highest part of my top end. I never really held it open until it screamed for mercy anyways and the bike is so much easier to ride now that I couldn't give a crap less. Oh and by the way no more fighting carb boots!!!!

I had a problem similar to that and it ended up being screwed up needles and seats combined with a clogged overflow hose. Gas would trickle right up out of the main jet around the neeedle and leak into the reeds and fill up the crank case. Sometimes I would have to pull start the quad then when one side would fire it would blow an amazing amount of crap out the other pipe. Sounds like you might have the beginning of this problem. Hope this helps

Spoin thanks for that Idea. I have made simple mistakes like that inthe past and I will double check it this weekend. Boon while I am checking for piston ports I will examine the reeds and cages and even if I see nothing wrong with them I will switch them from one side to the other and see if the problem follows the left side cage. I will also take a compression reading from the right side prior to tearing it apart. Hell I'll even switch the plug wires. I run a ADA head with 20 cc domes and I am at sea level. I think they are 20 cc domes I forget now but it seems to me when I ordered them I bought whatever was 2 cc's smaller than stock. I also run my timing advanced two degrees. That is only for this break in period. I usally run about 5-6 degrees. Thanks so much for all the help!!!!

Ok here it goes. I have been battling this for months now so I really need some good technical help. I rebuilt the top end on my shee -had the cylinders bored 30 over with new pistons and rings installed. Everything was fine until the crank on the left side let go about two tanks of fuel later. I ended up with some scratches in the left cylinder wall also. Well I got a new crank and crank seals. Honed out the cylinder myself. Checked my ring end gap which was about .016 which was under the max allowable although far from perfect. Slapped it all back together and it seemed to run fine. Then I noticed that it smoked more out of the left side. I ran it for a while figuring something with the home hone job I did might need a little break in time. Well after a few tanks of gas all I got was more smoke and fouled plugs, I could not detect any loss of transmission oil ( I assumed that it was sucking oil through the case halves) but once again no loss of transmission oil. Still not convinced though I split the cases again to check things out. I found nothing wrong with the case halves. Put it all back together again. The cylinder that is smoking and fouling plugs has 145 pounds of compression. I run a Trinity 1 to 2 carb set up so rule out carb differences right away. The left side does not always fire when at idle. In fact I can put my hand over the right exhaust and feel every perfect hit but when I put my hand on the left it just blows cold air at idle. One other weird note on this is that I run FMF pipe and silencers so this enables a llittle more noise to come out of the engine area and one thing I notice is that when the left side fires especially right off idle the noise that comes from the pipe seems quite a bit sharper and louder than the right side. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I am having a hard time beleiving that a cylinder with 145 pounds of compression would smoke so bad. Also just so we're cllear I know the difference between smoke and steam from a head gasket leak. This is blue smoke that stays in the air and does not evaporate like steam. Sorry for the long post but it takes a while to get the facts out.

I went through some dirt bikes some hodge podge some decent the best was an 87 kx 125 then onto quadsports. They never had enough power. Bought my first shee in 89. It was an 87 model red and white. My bank said I had to have insurance so I went and got it. 3 days later I let my future bro-in-law ride it and 10 secs later him and the quad were flipping through the air every which way. The insurance company put 1400 bucks in repairs on it and cancelled me within the next week. Then I had to beg my dad to pay off the loan so I could keep my shee cause the bank was gonna impound it for lack of insurance. Got married and ended trading it for a car. Now here I am 12 years later and I bought an 89 in a basket .Been tearing it up ever since. OOhh my aching wallet.