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Thanks for that info about the coil zilla. I would have never thought of that. I diidn't get instructions because I bought these used. Thanks again

I put on a set of pt mids today with the fat boy silencers and the left pipe is smashed up against the coil and melting the bottom side of it and I have to put zipties pulling the radiator lines every which way to keep the pipes from melting them too. Has anybody else had this problem and if so what did you do about it especially the coil.javascript:emoticon('') javascript:emoticon('')

I have gone through the break in procedure and now am on about my 4th tank of gas. I been running Bel ray HR 1 at about 40 to 1. I have looked for leaks . Done the carb and choke cleaner trick and found nothing. Maybe next week I'll replace the reeds and then just drive the piss out of it for a while. Thanks gents.

Hey Gents been battlin this problem for a while now. I did a total rebuild a while back with two new sleeves, wiseco pistons, new hot rods crank. My trouble is the damn thing just smokes more from the left side than the right. I have an ADA head and Trinity stage 4 33 mm carb set up with FMF fattys . I originally thought the thing was sucking tranny oil between the cases and I have split it 3 (count em ) 3 times looking for a potential leak . The o-rings on the head are in great shape and I just can't figure what the hell is going on. The crosshaches on the cylinder walls are still there and I hold about 140 lbs of compression on both sides with 20 cc domes at sea level. I have switched around my jetting some and chaged premix oils in hopes of finding some type of change but nothing yet. What the the hell is going on here. I'm not losing coolant or oil, could it be the reeds? They are a little old but still look really healthy. Anybody else with the 2-1 carb setup had this problem? Thanks for any help Chad

Hey gents I had the same problem when I first got mine. If your impeller is not working the banshee cooling system will revert back to a siphon type cooling system due to the fact it has no thermostat. Anyways I rode mine for 6 months with a broke impeller drive pin. When I took the cover off the impeller looked fine and when I turned it over the impeller would even move a little. Then I put a little twisting motion on the thing and realized it was not connected to anything and I'm sure when it was trying to pump water it wasn't moving any at all. What happens is that as you run the motor the cylinders and head heat the water to the boiling point and then the hot water and vapor go up to the radiator where it gets cooled and condenses back to coolant. The problem with this comes from the fact that your coolant temp while pressurized is probably running something like the 230's and when you stop and let it idle your cooling system loses the air flow and cooling capacity and the pressure reaches the limit on the cap and blammo your overflow tank is over filled. Hope this helps . I would hate to see someone else deal with what I did for so long.

sorry I should have clarified that. I paid a machine shop to do that part. Foolish me.

Just a note to say that this week I installed a new hot rods crank, new set of wiseco pistons, new cylinder sleeves, did the J-arm to A-arm conversion and installed a new set of +2+1 Quicksand A-arms all my self and I just rode it for the first time. Woohoo!! Thanks Demsy I'm so proud

I have the cv 33 setup and I run a 48 pilot , clip in the 3rd position, 185 main and my airscrew 2 1/2 turns out hope this helps you. With FMF pipes, ada head 20cc domes, k&n filter, no air box at all.

Thanks for the info gents. I'm to cheap to pay for stuff I can build though. I just looked at the pictures and got the general idea. A couple of afternoons in the garge and now my new a-arms are all bolted up. Now if Icould just get my cylinders back from the shop I could bolt it all together and ride.

does the lowering block change the rear suspension travel or the shock rates or anything else.?

I bought mine used and they came without that rubber vibration damper so I just went down to advance auto parts and bought some generic rubber grommets that were supposed to be in valve covers of engines. I had to trim them a little and squash them between to large washers but they work great.

I have a similar set up and I can tell you that your main is not big enough. I am at sea level also. You should be running a 185 at least with your needle some where in the middle grooves. I ran mine with that jetting and it wore out really fast. Theres a good chance you need to go up on the pilot to.

Same thing happened to me. I knew it weren't right but rode it anyways. Damn thing blew up when I was just coasting now I got two cylinders being sleeved and new set of pistons and a new crank . all to the tune of a thousand dollar bill. If I would have fixed it right away It would have cost me about 250 for a whole fresh top end. I'm an idiot.

I did a search for this and came up with crap. I know somebody must have this documented somewhere. I need to do it and would like to see some one elses work first. Thanks

yeah I know thats alot of parts. I have just had a run of bad luck. Every time one thing goes it eats the other. I have had skirts break and and cranks just wear slam the hell out. Gouged cylinder walls and once I know for sure it ran lean because of a leaking carb boot. I now have a trinity single carb set up and all new parts running at the right clearances. I should not see these pistons again untill my oldest kid is asking to borrow the car.. knock on wood

because the one that need resleeved in the beginning was damaged beyond repair due to debris from a broken skirt . The other beleive it or not was originally bored with a slight offset which made the sleeve extremely thin on one side. It wasn't much maybe 60-80 thousandths but definately enough to effect cooling on larger bores. How much can you take a stock cylinder out to anyways. Every thing has it's limits.

thanks for the input guys. I'll just eat the bill and get em both resleeved. Found a deal on some Wiseco 64.25 mm pistons on the bay today anyways. After these things are bored and honed to match the pistons will the ports have to be chamfered so as not to catch a ring or anything? Seems to me the last time I had one done the edges were so sharp. If so whats the best method? I just dropped in a new Wiseco welded hot rods crank from TDR yesterday and I swear if this thing blows up again I'll burn it to the ground in my front yard while signing a loan on my new yfz. Between the crank and the parts and labor for the top end I got 900+ bucks sunk into the damn thing. This is the third crank this year and the 4th set of pistons. Oh my aching wallet!!!!!! Oh and on the boobs thing if you get real real close you can't tell if they're diffferent sizes and they look really big too.

Unsure of what you meant by reaching the limit on the other cylinder anyway. I wonder what the difference is in weight between two different sized pistons. My machinest said that using different sized pistons was common practice when he built two stroke snow mobile engines. I really did not want to bore a brand new sleeve .040 over . Surely did not want to pay to have the other cylinder sleeved. I'm just bleeding out cash like crazy here. Any other opinions anyone.?

I have one cylinder that has a .040 over bore but the other I have to have sleeved now my question is . Do I have to have the new cylinder bored out to .040 over to match the other or can I leave it at stock bore. I would like to leave it there if I could just because it would have more rebuilds left on it. i don't think the difference in displacement would be in an issue I was more concerned about the difference in weight and balance aspects between the two pistons. I am going to use Wiseco pistons. I feel like I'm splitting hairs here so just tell me if there is some major reason not to do this. My machinest seems to think all will be just fine. Has anyone else out there done this?

Your cylinder base gaskets not only seal the water in but they also seal ouside air out. If you have a base gasket leak you can possibly run lean on that cylinder. That can lead to another rebuild. No screeching and squealing is not normal. Stop and figure out whats making that noise before you wreck somthing.

420 I'm originally from Tawas. Word of advice. If you like to ride stay out of NC. Mi has the best state run trail system in existence. We have none at all and I mean none nada zip. And the local sheriff impounds your atv at every incident.

Due to the fact that my engine grenaded I am left without the screaming demon for a while --however I have found a way to keep the memorys fresh and the motivations high. While doing yard work you should always fill that weed wacker or chain saw with that high grade petro that you burn in your bike. Those familier fumes should help bring your mind right back to where it should be.

I just lost a piston skirt so I took my top end off and noticed that the big end clearance was quite a bit. The book lists .0295 as max and I got at least .027. Thats alot compared to the min of .0098. How important is this measurement? I see the small end free play has a service limit of .080 and I know I am way beyond that when I rock the rod back and forth so I guess I'll need another crank. Any suggestions for fixing this one or where to get a good deal on another would be appreciated. And I don't want to dump 600 bucks at ebay for crap I don't need.

damn I just welded mine up solid. I suppose they'll break one day. Probably at the worst possible moment.

Is this the little idler gear. If so it is supposed to have a clip holding it in place. I have also seen the brass bushing in the center of it get really opened up causing it to run at all weird angles.