Brian G

What issue is this you are talking about???

The bike only holds .75 of a quart anyways. when you say clutch seal? which one do you mean???if the RH side crank seal went bad it would suck oil into the crankcase, how does the plug look? is it fowling the plug? Maybe it blew a crank seal and is sucking air from the LH side of the case, and causing a lean rich condition. I would fill it back up with oil, start it up take a can of brake clean and spray all around the carb and reeds also around the whol jug and head and take the flywheel cover off , while its running with the cover off spray the brake clean around the flywheel, it the bike revs up or revs high in that spot is where you have a AIR leak and it must be fixed. But on a blaster, you must split the cases to change the seals.

i700, the thing is a tank, but the phone is 3 years old and I am still on the original battery and it gets siginal just about anywhere, I would say that it is the best damn cell phone I have ever seen. only drawback is its size, but I really dont care, it is durable and it has awesone signal!!

NEXTEL!!

If you guys want a awesome tach, check out www.dynoedge.com they have a pretty sweet set up, comes with all the brackets and stuff!!

dynoedge.com

I will be there with a buddy, staying at the Silver sands, I will be in a Yellow ZR2 s10 with 2 banshees one is black and grey with a 6 inch over arm and the other one is a white and yellow shee, dont forget to Fly that duct tape!!! As for the sound level, I have heard that it was lowerd again but to what I dont know. But I do know a secret to get the DB down, when you pull up to the DNR station pull you choke out to the first notch it will make the bike run like shit but boy does it quiet it down!!!!! and when you get back on entrance road push it in!!!

pipes.....

They are inside the carb bodies, if you look inside the carbs they are the round thing's that slide up and down when you hit the throttle.

They are the Idle adjustment/carb screws. turning them in raises the idle and out lowers the idle, but when doing one you must do the other one the same turns. after you adjust them take the air filter out and look at the carb slides and hit the throttle, make sure both of the slides raise and lower ar the same time, if they do, then the carbs are syncd!! Hope this helps.

www.dynoedge.com awesome porting!!!! I got 72 hp and rum pump fuel. Ask for Rob.

Heat it with a torch!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AND DONT STOP POUNDING IT!!!! IT WILL COME OUT.

The only place on a banshee that has those is the radiator shroud.

It could be possible, do you have aftermarket handlebars? Also, check your cable routing one wrong turn and it can be way off.

I just did one the other day!!! Chances are you will ruin the bolt. Get a propane torch and heat up the end of it like crazy, ypu can put a punch in the end of it and beat it with a hammer but chances are you will stretch the bolt out and the nut will not go on. so I say just screw it, and just beat the hell out of it with a sledge hammer, my friend had to chop his swing arm in half with a torch just to get his out. the 30 bucks for the bolt is well worth it considering it will take you 2 days just to get it out!!!

There is only one way to change the timing. you need to take the stator cover off and then pull the flywheel off. you will see the stator mounted to a plate, that is the plate you need. Pro Design makes the adjustable plate. If you are down on the side of the bike, you to the right where the cases meet together which is right in front of the sprocket. At that point it kind of forms a little line, that is the line you need to set the plate at, right where the cases meet together. so if you wanted to go 4 degrees over you would set the +4 at that line where the cases meet together. But there are 2 more important factors, when putting the flywheel back on, make sure the key stays in the crankshaft!!!! and after the flywheel is back on you need to adjust the air gap between the flywheel magent and the pick up lead on the stator , it is suposed to be set at 0.18 - 0.20 thousands. Hope this helps any guestions you can PM me. But it is pretty easy.

Do a compression test.

VFORCE

Thanks guys, you have been helpfull once again!! HQ rules.

Magnum clutch, I noticed in the kit, there is no orings in the kit and I didnt know if you just reused the stock ones or just dont put them back in. Yes they are the Big round black rubber ones.

Do you have to put the little rubber orings back in after you do the clutch? I am talking about the rubber ones between the friction and steel plates? Also what is the torque specs on the spring Bolts? Thanks

Dynoedge racing in ortinville. www.Dynoedge.com

Go with the CPI, I have seen them on the dyno many times and boy they seem to just get better and better with every mod you do to the bike. Just my opinion, then again of the 12 people I ride with 10 of them have CPI's!!

Turbo, Yes this is the same Dynoedge with shooter, Mine starts climbing at about 4800 rpm and cuts out about 9500rpm but there is really no peak in it, it is a gradual incline. And you are right, I dont ride the low end of the bike!!! What I was saying is that when I launch it on the drag, the power is right there and it takes off. Now I consider that to be the low end!! LOL but all I know is when its putting around in 1st, 2nd or 3rd and I give it a blip on the throttle it shits and gets But believe me , I saw this guys dynograph and he had no low end to begin with, he never lost any power, it just came on later in the rpm, which it typical of any port job.

Please run 110 straight!!