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Had piston slap after running motor for about 30 min. with no left K&N filter pod at the dunes. My cylinders compression was at 163 (left) 165 (right) after being ran with no filter and before I took apart the top end. I removed top end and took cylinders to CT Racing In Southern California. He honed my cylinders after he received my new Pro-X piston to match them to the hone. I put my top end together with the new pistons and performed a leak down test (she held 7 psi for 7 min). When I did a compression test using the same tester I used before I put together my honed cylinders with new pistons it’s now reading 118 (left) 120 (Right). Is it possible that the new hone would have caused the compression to go down? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so the banshee i am working on that was was neglected for some time has multiple issues and i am working through them but as its the first banshee for me to work on . Usually work on jet skis motorbikes and boats. Got a couple of questions that i am sure you experienced guys could help me with. its not a stock Banshee and has PT PIPES Duncan International racing motor with PWK 35MM carbs and K&N filters. I have managed to get it to start bu doing the following. , cleaned out carbs (jets are 55 and 160 we are at sea level with high ambt temps ) ,all get were blocked up heavily with gunk and varnish. stuck fresh gas and new plush in after put a little oil down plug holes. 1 Got ho;es in the left exhaust pipe.(will get it welded up) 2Front brake master cylinder full of crud and sh1t. ( pulled the two front calipers of stripped them down cleaned and reassembled. flushed out brake line top to bottom and bottom to top. got a new master cylinder oem on order) 3 Front right shock found top insulator missing completely. are they standard oem on the WORKS SHOCK? and do they use NITROGEN/AIR? And at what pressure a they charged to ?(Works Performance Shock) 4 Radiator leaking so have found one on ebay made in Florida with life time warranty ( anybody had issues with aftermarket radiator) 5 throttle cable ,when converting from stock carbs to PWK is the throttle cable changed too.I am thinking of sticking a new throttle cable i i need to learn how to adjust the mixture screws at some stage. I made contact with DUNCAN racing who told me use 105 octane gas but at present running it on 98 as that's what we have at the gas station. I may still get two carb kits and redo the carbs again and stick the parts into ultrasonic bath as they were the worst carbs i have seeF thanks guys feel free to through the kitchen sink at me

The Cometic gasket kit I was using before the hone is a 65.5mm kit (C7094). The new kit sold to me by the shop that did the hone is a 68mm kit (C7316). I just called Cometic and the Tech. there told me that both those kits should be the same thickness. I don’t have calipers to measure my exact bore, so could say exactly what my bore is. Maybe I’m losing compression cause my gasket kit is too big for my bore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In general, Most OEM pieces are good quality but often expensive like you've heard. Back in the day I preferred factory cranks in any of my stock stroke asphalt motor builds but once I ran out of "stock" I started using Hot Rod cranks. In this case bare OEM rods wouldn't set you back much. https://www.powerpartsplus.com/oemparts/a/yam/500391a1f870021f60a0d639/crankshaft-piston