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First start up Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk

I think the old design had the 2 bars in the heel guard area Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk

Don't worry about it, Just gives us so much more room for activities. You'll still have room to squeeze in somewhere if things work out for you.

"Break in" is not just to seat the rings If it is a stock cyl motor (or any steel sleeve cyl) the piston is aluminum. The piston swells (especially when new) quicker than the sleeve. After the piston is heated and cooled a few times it doesn't swell as rapidly or as much as when "new". So for me I do suggest a break in period (heat cycles, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, ect..) on steel sleeve motors to allow the piston to harden (acclimate to the verious temp changes). Most steel sleeve motors if they haven't been broke in right when you pull them apart you will see scoring on all 4 corners of the piston. Same thing if you just start up a steel sleeve motor and just take off with out letting it warm up (aka cold seizing). So breaking in is just a process to allow the piston to acclimate to the steel sleeve (swell and contract). This is all determined off of piston to wall clearance the more clearance the less break in time. Nicasil is differant as it is more forgiving and swells quicker than a steel sleeve. But everyone has there own opinion and this is just my opinion.

Hesitation at wide open throttle would make me look at drilling the gas cap hole and installing a dual pingle Valve, plus check the pickup gap. Sent from my SM-N910H using Tapatalk

As far as the needle, a JJH seems to be the one sticking out in my mind (I have never used 28PWKs). I am not sure if the 28PWKs will work with the stock intakes, but I am not positive on that one. I am sure someone with more 28PWK knowledge will be more help than I am... EDIT: I just did a search using the key words "28mm PWK jetting." There are a few you might be able to use to help you get it close. Click me. :cool: