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Need some ideas about picking out a sick bumper. Whatcha guys think? Price doesn't matter Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Giving away "TSS" for FREE!!!

Shark mouth

I only asked cause you have Elka stage 5's, hipers, Nerf bars lol.

I have a sick one I'll sell you. 2k. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Half ass job on the clutch cover but the silencers turned out good. 400 grit 800 1000 then 1500. 00 steel whool then mothers. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk

You have no idea! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

back up...anyone have pictures of there towing setup to get ATV into the dunes. I have seen people put rear tires on quad up on a hitch rack and roll the front tires down the road behind a vehicle.

Here's a basic list of what to cut. If you're going to run pods, cut the airbox mounts off(front and rear ones) If you're not going to run factory foot baskets, cut those mounts off If you're going to run cut front fenders, cut the tabs for the support braces(below the front motor mounts) If you're moving the CDI and regulator, cut those tabs off If you're going to run uncut rears, KEEP the mounts that go out the sides for the rear fenders Cut the tabs for the rubber bumpers for the stock pipes off. It looks real dumb with those tabs and a nice powder coated frame Cut the TORS box tab off You can cut the molded, curved stinger mount off that's in front of the silencers, if your stingers don't have a mount there

fuck oil, its expensive and over rated, i just make sure to get the 94 octane from sunoco, if you run 93 octane like some of these idiots, you'll need to add oil to bring it up.

It's the shoty stock carbs. They have to be in sync and ajusted exactly alike. Also, Banhee's choke is off of one carb, not two, that's why you need that crossover tube betwwen the carbs. That's also why one side will run richer then the other. The carb with the choke will have a tendency to draw fuel though the choke tube when it's not supposed to.