Leaderboard

I have noticed a few posts regarding the use, or misuse of dielectric grease. The term "dielectric" refers to to opposite of "electrically conductive", in which it is actually an insulator!! A common specification used in the electronics industry called "dielectric breakdown" refers to how much voltage per mil thickness a material can insulate before voltage will "leak" through. The common dielectric greases found at auto parts stores are usually a silicone grease. It is called dielectric grease because it can be used AROUND electrical contacts without concerns of voltage carrying through the grease and finding a short. Consider it like a liquid insulator! There are some greases that are designed specifically for multipin connectors and switches with a LOW dielectric breakdown. These greases are formulated to purposely conduct at very low mil thickness (close proximity of a socket/pin connection), but otherwise have high enough dielectric so as not to create shorts through the entire connector. Grease is used to lock out moisture. The reason I bring this up is I notice several people advocating the use of dielectric grease for "all connections", without consideration of what grease is used. In short, the common variety of silicone grease actually has a HIGH dielectric breakdown as it is intended for spark plug boots so if you put that on a metallic connector, you will actually create RESISTANCE, which is opposite of what you want! This can cause all sorts of electrical problems. Now, I realize some tech sheets for spark plug wires may even promote the use of this grease, but their goal and intention is to rely on a high pressure contact to squeeze the grease away from the actual point of contact. And also realize spark plug wires operate at many thousands of volts. Apply that same method to a connector with only 10-15V, and you have effectively installed a resistor in the connector. There are greases formulated as "electrically conductive", and are commonly used in electronics. They are not as common in automotive applications because any accidental overage can create an easy short. The proper use of common silicone dielectric grease would be to apply the grease ONLY on the connector boots to create a high quality water seal, but it should not be applied to the actual metallic contacts. Brandon Mull Engineering

Blew a head gasket, trashed the pistons and cylinders. Cylinders were on the last bore size anyway. About 2 years ago I went through the bottom end and had my crank rebuilt. So I would like to keep the crank I have, and not split the cases. The crank is 115mm rod length, stock stroke, and welded. Crank feels fine and visually looks good. I am thinking about going to a 65mm cub cylinder. Running 795 series pistons, and a stock head. I don't need to mess with the factory head to run the 795's, right? I figure I can have the head milled to what ever is ideal to run a 50/50 mix of 110 and 91 gas though. I have in frame drag pipes, 35mm carbs, billet intakes ,k&ns already. This sound like a good way to go? Any recommendations?

An M8 bolt tightened to 20ft-lbs applies around 5000lbs of clamping force. This should make you feel better.

It could be possible a previous owner installed things incorrectly, like ball first then rod. You adding a ball would be ball - rod- ball. I.E., 1rod, 2balls. Best to remove and inspect.

I only wish it was legal to ride on the roads here...

Our dyno we had at cost $25000 when I worked at the stealership. We charged shop rate which was $60 an hour. Local Guy charges $60 an hour. I'll just drive up and see BHP and Lane they are dyno masters. Plus they will tell you how to tune it in the real world riding. Sent from my eco friendly celltelly

Guess I feel compelled to offer my input. The first thing I might question is the mechanic. We may not have the full story but it sounds like the bike has a starting problem but otherwise runs good. A comp value of 60psi, unless you are on Mt Everest, would be pretty much not running at all. I would first question that value. Seen this tooooo many times where guys end up doing a total rebuild over a poor compression test. The adapter that screws into the head is just as important as the gauge. Personally, I would pull the pipes and/or the reed blocks to get a good look at the rings. At 60psi and those hours, either your rings are welded into the pistons, or you have no problem at all. If the ports were so sharp that they destroyed the rings in a couple hours, that usually leaves some evidence in the bore, or a quick feel will tell you. Yes, it is normal for the pistons to look a little "loose" from the top. The top timing edge of the piston is designed smaller due to how it expands when hot. A sharp mechanic can simply move the piston around at TDC and determine if the rings are welded or not. To me this sounds like a choke problem. Not pulling it all the way out to the second click, cross tube is missing, etc, etc. Something simple Brandon Mull Engineering