kingkong Posted August 11, 2008 Report Posted August 11, 2008 hi everyone im kingkong. new to this site and banshee's. i got some questions i would like to ask cause im new to banshee's but i have fell in love with them. first of all i own a 2001 banshee with toomey t 5's and jetted carbs. it have out ran every raptor 660,700, kawasaki 700 and polaris i have ran. they told me the raptor would out run me but it hasnt happened. we race 1/8th on streets. enjoyed this one so much i bought another 1. it has the trinity racing 421 cheetah cub kit and a six inch swingarm. i recently bought a set of hoosiers which caused me to buy a set of wheelie bars. im currently gettin ready to install a nitrous kit. the hoosiers have started the clutch to slipping in high gear jus a lil. whats the best clutch assembly to buy? also whats the biggest stroke crank you can fit in a stock block? just curious cause i may step up a lil farther. anyway all response bout the crank and clutch will be greatly appreciated Quote
bigboybanshee Posted August 11, 2008 Report Posted August 11, 2008 What strength clutch springs are you running? Are you running a lockup? Quote
badassbanshee479 Posted August 11, 2008 Report Posted August 11, 2008 I would say your gonna need a lock up to keep the clutch from slipping. You can put an 18 or a 20 mill crank in a set of stock cases, but the cases have to be trenched welded and or epoxied to keep them from leaking! you can drop a 4mill crank in with no mods to the cases. Jeff at FAST sells a really nice clutch kit that holds up to drag motors well! Quote
dajogejr Posted August 11, 2008 Report Posted August 11, 2008 It all depends on how deep into drag racing you want to get. I'd leave the T5 bike as is for trails and poking around....make this cub bike a strict drag bike. Lower it, stretch it, get a FAST clutch, lockup and override.... That alone will improve your racing. A clutch that will hold and being able to shift without using the clutch at full power. Quote
kingkong Posted August 11, 2008 Author Report Posted August 11, 2008 It all depends on how deep into drag racing you want to get. I'd leave the T5 bike as is for trails and poking around....make this cub bike a strict drag bike. Lower it, stretch it, get a FAST clutch, lockup and override.... That alone will improve your racing. A clutch that will hold and being able to shift without using the clutch at full power. not sure what kind of clutch it is. the guy said something bout a quick release i think. dont know a whole lot bout 4 wheelers but i do race cars so im mechanically inclined. i have lowered the bike and it does have a six inch extended swingarm. im going to be asking some dumd questions cause im trying to learn. what is a fast clutch lockup and override? you say you dont have to use the clutch? i gave the t5 bike to my 16 yr old son. we are going to step it up sum as i learn bout these bikes Quote
dajogejr Posted August 11, 2008 Report Posted August 11, 2008 Quick Release is the lever itself... A lockup is a device that has weights of some type, it uses centrifugal force from the motor spinning to put pressure on the clutch itself, or "lock" it up... On higher HP bikes, drag bikes, etc., you need a lockup so you're not smoking clutches left and right...and the power is getting to the wheels. An Overide is a transmission that is specifically cut to allow you to upshift the bike under full power without pulling the clutch...it is the best thing since sliced bread, period. Quote
rb0804 Posted August 12, 2008 Report Posted August 12, 2008 An Overide is a transmission that is specifically cut to allow you to upshift the bike under full power without pulling the clutch...it is the best thing since sliced bread, period. i second that, i wasnt sure at first but after running one i'll prolly never go back. go duneable. whats the biggest stroke crank you can fit in a stock block the +4 is a drop in, the +7 requires trenching and i think anything over that requires case modfication (ie welding etc) Quote
dajogejr Posted August 12, 2008 Report Posted August 12, 2008 Usually, anything over 10mm you'll have to epoxy or weld the cases before you trench them. Some will tell you should for 10mm, some won't.... My 10 mil cases aren't epoxied or welded.... Quote
kingkong Posted August 12, 2008 Author Report Posted August 12, 2008 told u guys i would be asking sum dumb questions cause im trying to learn. here is the next dunb question. is trenching something like notching the block to accept a longer stroke crank? another dumb question. i see all the different cylinders for sell. my cylinder cant be bored out or resleeved? or is it that it cant be bored big enough? i have a race car and i know how engines work im just trying to see if banshee's are similar. y would a person buy a stroker crank and stop at 4mil when he can buy a 10mil to fit the same case? just asking trying to learn. Quote
bigboybanshee Posted August 13, 2008 Report Posted August 13, 2008 Yes, trenching is cutting the cases to allow for a bigger stroke. You can trench the stock cases quite a bit, but once you get to a certain point you'll need to have the cases strengthened, there are a couple different ways to do so...Each style of cylinder has its limits as to how big of a bore you can go. The reason most people don't go out and buy large stroke/bore engines is because of how much they cost to build. It's not just buying a crank and cylinders and letting her rip...you have to completely change everything...transmission, clutch setup, head, carbs, pipes, etc. It adds up real quick...Call a builder, price out a big engine, you'll be surprised how much it costs, lol Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.