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Hopefully you will see the attached pics of the piston, in question.

The top is all pitted and there is a chunk of metal broke off from the side.

A.) Where did the metal go?

B.) Can I get away with just honing the jugs and getting new pistons, rings, bearings, ect.

C) Do I have to split the case to look for the metal

 

need some answers still kind of green at engine rebuilding.

post-13214-1217201297.jpg

Edited by BrianEb
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my dirtbike did the same thing, its possible that most of the metal went out the pipe but you can be 100% sure that there is metal in the crankcase and that means you need to split the cases and thuroughly clean the bearing/replace check for play in the rod and you might as well get it trued and welded, your cylinders might only need a hone, you need to take it to a boring shop and get the walls checked, they will tell you how much it needs to be bored etc

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my dirtbike did the same thing, its possible that most of the metal went out the pipe but you can be 100% sure that there is metal in the crankcase and that means you need to split the cases and thuroughly clean the bearing/replace check for play in the rod and you might as well get it trued and welded, your cylinders might only need a hone, you need to take it to a boring shop and get the walls checked, they will tell you how much it needs to be bored etc

 

Besides the motor mounts what else is involved to spliting the case and getting it out of the frame?

 

Disconnect the stator electrical.

 

or is it better to pay the $75 hour shop rate to have a knowable person look at it and clean it out.

weld and true a new crank what would be the total damage

 

Downriver Michigan

needs help and good advise on what route to take

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I just had to recase my engine and with the banshee video by tate (a member here) and a clymer manual I was able to do the whole tear down and rebuild in a few evenings. I feel that by doing it yourself you learn how everything works and are able to better understand what is going on when there is a problem.

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ALSO what is the cause of the piston that makes that happen

Splitting the case isnt really hard at all, the only special tool you should really own is a flywheel puller. After removing the top end and the clutch basket and stator/flywheel assmbly its just 12 mils holding the cases together. I personally didnt need a case splitter... Mine came apart with a couple of taps w/ a deadblow mallet.... But anyway, that cylinder DEFINATLEY leaned out big time! Might wanna check that sides intake setup for vac leaks man.. My 2 cents

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I'm not sure it leaned out. The skirt looks as though it just gave out. What was your cylinder clearance? Where those piston windows enlarged? Doesn't look as though there were a lot of hours on that top end.

The question of just honing your jugs will depend on cylinder clearance and how badly scarred they are from the come-apart. You will likely have to have it bored. Most of the metal probably got stuck in the piston and head or went out of the exhaust, but you will still need to split the cases and thoroughly clean or replace the bearings and have the inner bearings checked as well as the rod bearings. There are a total of 16 studs/bolts holding the cases together, 8 on the bottom of the crank case and 8 on the top of the transmission. Other than that you need to pull the flywheel and stator plate, and the clutch to get to a small plate behind it that is bolted to both case halves. Not much to it.

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