shanYE west Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 Well.. if your gonna just junk the carbs you could always send them to me. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted July 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 bansheesickness mentioned that the parking brake can retard the ignition and have a similar effect. In this case, the wires going to the thumb throttle where cut and then tied together to form a closed loop. The wires going to the parking break where not touched though. I need to find the instructions for a tors removal and run through them to be certain. I had to replace one of the original carb bodies because the previous owner didn't tap the carb correctly for the tors removal idle screw. So....that narrowed it down to 1 original '06 carb and the tors removal, but like you guys are saying, it's a long shot. I'm definetly going to find out what is up with those carbs. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05.Banshee.SE Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 I have a brand new TORS kit at my house I haven't installed yet. I can scan the directions for you if you'd like. (This kit didn't come with an idle kit...I purchased that seperately so those directions aren't included.) You may be able to find them online though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2strokespirit Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 My opinion is that there is a passage blocked in one of the carbs, I know the carbs are just 2 years old, but it also sounds like a weared needle jet and jet needle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted July 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 update, bought a new compression tester and the compression is fine - 120 cold. My buddies compression tester is no good. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1.6i Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 glad you found the problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercury65 Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 i read that you got it fixed but did you ever check that the slides were in the right carbs because if you get them in the wrong carbs they will run just as u said your bike ran. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted September 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2008 Hi - sorry for the delay and thank you for the post. Once I got it running I got excited for a few months and road the 'shee a bit. Curiosity has me back to this issue. When you mentioned the slides being swapped or in the incorrect carbs, my first thought was that both slides are the same, but after carefully looking at them they are different. How do I know which slide goes in which carb? i read that you got it fixed but did you ever check that the slides were in the right carbs because if you get them in the wrong carbs they will run just as u said your bike ran. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted September 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2008 took a peak at the manual....small machine holes in slides must line up with carb window. o.k, looks like I'm taking the current carbs off to try this and see if it was the issue. Hi - sorry for the delay and thank you for the post. Once I got it running I got excited for a few months and road the 'shee a bit. Curiosity has me back to this issue. When you mentioned the slides being swapped or in the incorrect carbs, my first thought was that both slides are the same, but after carefully looking at them they are different. How do I know which slide goes in which carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 The nightmare continued. So, summers here and now and I want to run with TORS removed. So I took the carbs & tors out and popped in the carbs with the TORS removed, but this time I verified that the slides are in the correct carbs. Same goddamn problem! I can't believe it. - Made sure the choke sync tube is on. - Took floats from a working machine and installed them. - Put new main & pilot jets in. - Carbs are perfectly clean (because I've gone through this at least 30 times now) - There are no air leaks. - The TORS eliminate screw is tight. - Took the slides and needle from a working machine and installed them. So, in a nutshell. Bike runs excellent with "TORS Carbs". Pop the "NO TORS Carbs" in it doesn't run worth a damn. (requires the choke to run). I really don't know what else is left to try. With the exception of the one carb body, these things are nearly all new! (I already replaced 1 carb body) I hate to give up on this and would truly like to know what the problem is. Any suggestions? My next action is to take the "TORS Carbs" and drill them for "NO TORS". *big sigh* took a peak at the manual....small machine holes in slides must line up with carb window. o.k, looks like I'm taking the current carbs off to try this and see if it was the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoxrage Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 The nightmare continued. So, summers here and now and I want to run with TORS removed. So I took the carbs & tors out and popped in the carbs with the TORS removed, but this time I verified that the slides are in the correct carbs. Same goddamn problem! I can't believe it. - Made sure the choke sync tube is on. - Took floats from a working machine and installed them. - Put new main & pilot jets in. - Carbs are perfectly clean (because I've gone through this at least 30 times now) - There are no air leaks. - The TORS eliminate screw is tight. - Took the slides and needle from a working machine and installed them. So, in a nutshell. Bike runs excellent with "TORS Carbs". Pop the "NO TORS Carbs" in it doesn't run worth a damn. (requires the choke to run). I really don't know what else is left to try. With the exception of the one carb body, these things are nearly all new! (I already replaced 1 carb body) I hate to give up on this and would truly like to know what the problem is. Any suggestions? My next action is to take the "TORS Carbs" and drill them for "NO TORS". *big sigh* did you cut the wires from the little black box under the gas tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted April 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 No...(?)....I thought no wires had to be cut to elminate TORS? The previous owners cut the wire that previous went to the thumb throttle. Other than this, the TORS is "unplugged". I did try plugging in the electrical connection on the TORS carbs to the bike, with the NON-TORS carbs installed and it made no difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoxrage Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 No...(?)....I thought no wires had to be cut to elminate TORS? The previous owners cut the wire that previous went to the thumb throttle. Other than this, the TORS is "unplugged". I did try plugging in the electrical connection on the TORS carbs to the bike, with the NON-TORS carbs installed and it made no difference. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...;hl=remove+tors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted April 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 Tried this and no luck. Sooo...I took my stock set of TORS carbs that the bike runs perfectly with and drilled them out and installed the TORS eliminator kit in them. Bike started up fine!. The only thing I can think of is that one of the carb bodies is defective. I took some photos and showed where the casting underneath the fuel valve is formed imperfectly in a previous post. Thanks for your help guys - appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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