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Posted
Stock will run around 73 I think, so you might hit 80 with a 15 front, if you can get the motor to pull it.

 

J/c but why are you so worried about top speed?

im goin to silver lake and i dont have my timing plate on or a flywheel puller will i be able to get to the timing plate w/o the puller?

Posted
its a reverse threaded fine pitch tool that has a smaller bolt that goes through the center to push against the crank and remove the flywheel

 

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ok i really dont know alot about banshees a little bit tho will i be able to put on the timing plate without fucking up my hole bike and how long should this take i have the ricky stator adustable and i dont have a key should i ? its just the plate

Posted
ok i really dont know alot about banshees a little bit tho will i be able to put on the timing plate without fucking up my hole bike and how long should this take i have the ricky stator adustable and i dont have a key should i ? its just the plate

do this,

 

Buy the flywheel puller, and pull the flywheel. then unbolt your staors and plate. swap it out for the new stator and plate and set the timing you want from the case halfs being your refferance point. and then bolt the flywheel back up. its a good idea to dab some super glue on the woodruff key to hold it in place when trying to set the flywheel back on. you dont want the key to shift.

 

also when you go to remove the flywheel dab a small amount of greas on the threads and on the tip of the puller that meets the crank so you dont risk stirpping it out. i would buy two puller at the same time. they are a weaker metal then the flywheel so they can break very easily to insure your flywheel doesnt get jackedup in the process.

Posted
do this,

 

Buy the flywheel puller, and pull the flywheel. then unbolt your staors and plate. swap it out for the new stator and plate and set the timing you want from the case halfs being your refferance point. and then bolt the flywheel back up. its a good idea to dab some super glue on the woodruff key to hold it in place when trying to set the flywheel back on. you dont want the key to shift.

 

also when you go to remove the flywheel dab a small amount of greas on the threads and on the tip of the puller that meets the crank so you dont risk stirpping it out. i would buy two puller at the same time. they are a weaker metal then the flywheel so they can break very easily to insure your flywheel doesnt get jackedup in the process.

ok but do i need to buy a aftermarket degree key??? or do i just line the number up with the case halfs and how long will this take again

Posted
ok but do i need to buy a aftermarket degree key??? or do i just line the number up with the case halfs and how long will this take again

no just use oem keys. you line the number of timing up with the case halfs and tighten it down.

Posted
no just use oem keys. you line the number of timing up with the case halfs and tighten it down.

Ok sounds good one more question my bikes a 87 and i just got stock heads milled to equal 21cc domes should i put them on before i goto the dunes and not worrie about my clutch going out with the extra compression?

Posted
Ok sounds good one more question my bikes a 87 and i just got stock heads milled to equal 21cc domes should i put them on before i goto the dunes and not worrie about my clutch going out with the extra compression?

 

Lol yes you should be ok. it'd be a good idea to do a compression check though to see waht gas you should run. And to check your squish since you're havin a stock head milled...but thats another thread i guess

Posted
Lol yes you should be ok. it'd be a good idea to do a compression check though to see waht gas you should run. And to check your squish since you're havin a stock head milled...but thats another thread i guess

agree

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