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Posted

the reason I am wondering is, I have a 98 that I recently purchased use. This is my first one and I baught it knowing the compression was low so I did a Wiseco top end and it runs awsome. I was just curious as if I should do the clutch kit too just to have it done

Posted

If your going through the gears hammering on it and it feels like waaWAH and no go u need a clutch :biggrin: also, when u go to take off if it lurches forward and u cant fix the problem by adjusting the adjuster at the cable you more then likely need one as well if u take the cover off check the fingers on the basket for wear (grooves) and wobble in the basket, good warning signs of needing to replace the basket to..

Posted

tell tale sign is the motor is revving real quick, but it's not going faster...

 

one way to test a slipping clutch is try taking off in 3 or 4th gear. If it slips out and lets you take off, it's probably worn.

Posted
tell tale sign is the motor is revving real quick, but it's not going faster...

 

one way to test a slipping clutch is try taking off in 3 or 4th gear. If it slips out and lets you take off, it's probably worn.

 

 

Not on a sand bar with knobbies :biggrin:

 

But ya it'll feel like the motor is givin it all but you're not accelerating as fast as it should. Alot easier to tell if you get on pavement.

Posted

Fine point...

I should add...if you got a HUGE Motor....it'll pull the bigger gears too...LOL.

Pavement or grass that offers primo traction will test the clutch.

Actually...a dyno is a real good test of the clutch's holding capabilities...

Posted

really depends on what kind of motor setup you got, i use barnett's, but i have also used ebc's and there ok for the money, if ur willing to spend the extra few bucks id go barnett..

Posted

dont go with any aftermarket clutch fibers. Just look at the ears on them compared to the stock street bike ones. The aftermarket ears look like they are purposly designed to chew up the basket and make you cough up 200+ for a new one. Stick with oem stuff. I use the oem model 4H7-16321-02 straight from yamaha. I have also heard that some guys are running the stock raptor ones too but I have no experiance with those so I can not recomend them. From there you should atleast use 3 heavy duty springs and 3 new stock ones or all 6HD ones.

Posted

without a big motor with a lot of HP, I think all 6 HD springs are overkill, IMO.

I'm going to be trying a 660 raptor clutch in mine soon. But I also have drag bike with a lockup, hardly a fair comparison for him.

 

The key is to check the wear on the components and make sure the engagement arm is adjusted properly, both can be found in the manual....

Posted
I'm going to be trying a 660 raptor clutch in mine soon.

 

 

Hey dajo, is it the raptor fibers and steels, or just the raptor steels and the FZR fibers? Also, i have seen toomey and barnett HD springs, which ones are stiffer?

Posted

Raptor fiber and steels.

 

I think the Toomey are stiffer, but I don't know to be honest. I use the Barnett HD springs. Right now, I have 3 HD 3 stock.

But I also have a 3 + year old FAST clutch that is a little worn...so, I don't know how I'm going to set it up when I get my new clutch components.

 

Here's the part numbers for you:

 

5Y1-16321-00-00 PLATE,FRICTION

360-16325-00-00 PLATE,CLUTCH (steels)

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