peterlocal22 Posted April 24, 2008 Report Posted April 24, 2008 hi guys, i was working on my bros 2003 banshee yesterday, installing some parts, billet impellar, new gasket for cluch cover, etc. My brother just recently bought the bike used. As you know inorder to remove the clutch cover you have to drain the oil and coolant. so i drained the oil and then started to do the collant. i started with the left side of the cylinder where the bolt is. It was unusually difficult to get off. I noticed when it finally came out it made a cracking noise. Anyways i continued on and removed it, the coolant came out and i then did the same thing on the right side. I looked at the bolt from the left side and i noticed the copper washer was stuck to the head of the bolt and i mean stuck. i also noticed a silver like color around the outside of the washer. i couldnt get the washer no matter how hard i tried. anyways once everything was completed and it was time to put the bolts back in i noticed the left bolt just kept spinning. So i knew something was up. I removed the bolt and looked at it. it seemed fine so i then looked at the cylinder where the bolt scews into. it was flat and smot almost all the way in except just alittle bit. So im guessing the original owner stripped the cylinder out but then jd welded the washer to the bolt and the bolt to the cylinder or something alon those lines? So now im trying to figure out the best way to go about fixing the problem. do i buy a new left cylinder or can it be re thread? anyone run into this problem and have a good solution? thanks peter Quote
cumminsman Posted April 24, 2008 Report Posted April 24, 2008 You could retap the hole. Just go slow and use alot of lube(haha) but seriously use lube. Or the more ghetto way....you could use helicoils. I think getting a new cylinder should definitely be a last resort. Quote
peterlocal22 Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Posted April 24, 2008 ya thats what i was hoping to hear that i could re tap it. Quote
Animalman294 Posted April 25, 2008 Report Posted April 25, 2008 You should be able to easily retap it, but then once the cooling system is ran a while you may wnat to drain it again to see if you can flush out any shavings from the retapping............... Quote
rubberneck Posted April 25, 2008 Report Posted April 25, 2008 When you go to tap the hole, pack the tap with bearing grease. go in 1 turn and back out 1/2 turn and pull the tap out every couple of turns and clean away the grease. the grease will catch most of the metal shavings. the other thing you can do is get everything buttoned up and cap the outlet from the head off and have a buddy shoot compressed air in the inlet near the water pump (hoses removed) be carefull, you are not trying to pressurise the system, just keep the air flowing. This will blow the chips back out at you through the hole you are tapping. I use these methods when tapping exhaust manifolds for pyrometers on diesels. If the truck is cold, i use the grease method. Warm and the grease melts, so i let the truck run at a high idle and drill/tap the manifold. the pressure shoots the metal shavings back at you. Quote
rubberneck Posted April 25, 2008 Report Posted April 25, 2008 Buy cubs, lol Yeah, that eliminates that problem doesn't it. LOL Quote
RollinRhino Posted April 25, 2008 Report Posted April 25, 2008 Contact these people: http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/leftnav...s/products.html I have used their inserts for years on my MXers and am nothing but happy with their products. Quote
dragbanshee Posted April 27, 2008 Report Posted April 27, 2008 Im sure your bro would also like the cubs idea Quote
peterlocal22 Posted April 27, 2008 Author Report Posted April 27, 2008 Im sure your bro would also like the cubs idea its funny i actually did consider pitching the cubs idea to him, lol Quote
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