gentner8 Posted April 23, 2008 Report Share Posted April 23, 2008 What do you think about the crankcase? Should I split it or what? You definately need a rebuild with those numbers. I bet its a bitch to start too isnt it? I would pull the top end off and see what the rods feel like as far as play goes. You can also pull the flywheel cover off and see if you can feel play in the crank bearings. As far as tearing your carbs apart, they are pretty simple and you probably dont need a manual. They are nice to have around for "those" times. Good luck, and the efforts will be well worth it. I just spent the last 4 months buying parts and putting mine back together. All I can say is WOW what a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue88lx Posted April 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2008 Well, I would definitely like to not have to do anything to the bottom end unless I have to. I'm gonna have to hear the wife bitch about how much $$$ i'm gonna throw into this thing. Especially since I am planning on buying her a new quad next week. When I pulled it off the carbs were f-ing filthy. This thing was very poorly maintained. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar1rules Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 don't pull the top end off just yet. you said the carbs were very dirty. give them a good cleaning and then run the bike and see the difference. also do a compression check, to see the psi that the cylinders pull, before justifying tearing the top end down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue88lx Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 don't pull the top end off just yet. you said the carbs were very dirty. give them a good cleaning and then run the bike and see the difference. also do a compression check, to see the psi that the cylinders pull, before justifying tearing the top end down. I've already done another compression check, wasn't so good, 100 on one, 60 on the other. Looked in the exhaust port on the low side and had a chip off the piston in between the ring landings and a piece of the ring was gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar1rules Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 there's the remainder of the problem. split the cases and see if anything down low go beat up like the top end did. then you can check the crank bearings too while in there. then rebuild top end. you said carbs are already cleaned. then go and have fun again with strong motor after rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougman1014 Posted April 25, 2008 Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 I guess I could have worded it differently. I'm wanting to get some of that power in the low end, even if I sacrifice it up top. I'm going to pull the carbs off and get a real compression test done tonight. well what you could do is change the gearing around, run a bigger back sprocket, youll have more low end power......but youll lose top end speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted April 25, 2008 Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 If you are not wanting to sink a whole bunch of money into it at this point, before you tear it down anyfurther, do a leak down test. it should hold 6psi for 6min with 1psi per min loss being acceptable. This will give you an idea if the crank seals are ok. if it will pressure test, yank the top end off and bore it/ put some pistons in it. While you have the top off, you can check the rod side clearance to make sure the crank isn't separating. Cleanthe carbs get them adjusted/synched and enjoy the thing. If the bottom goes later fix it. This would be the quick way to do it. You can make your own pressure tester or buy them on ebay. do a search for the procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar1rules Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 If you are not wanting to sink a whole bunch of money into it at this point, before you tear it down anyfurther, do a leak down test. it should hold 6psi for 6min with 1psi per min loss being acceptable. This will give you an idea if the crank seals are ok. if it will pressure test, yank the top end off and bore it/ put some pistons in it. While you have the top off, you can check the rod side clearance to make sure the crank isn't separating. Cleanthe carbs get them adjusted/synched and enjoy the thing. If the bottom goes later fix it. This would be the quick way to do it. You can make your own pressure tester or buy them on ebay. do a search for the procedure. i would double check the bottom end now. just doing the top end now, without disassembling the bottom end to inspect things to a fuller extent, is asking for trouble. "if the bottom goes later, fix it", yeah but you will more than likely have to rebore the cylinders, get new pistons and head or dome, if a crank bearing or rod bearing lets go. now more $$ into the quad. my boss did the cheap rebuild on one of his snowmobiles, when it blew up the second time. needless to say, the second rebuild lasted 2.5 miles. GO OVER THE BOTTOM END!! don't just skimp on doing the top end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hylander88 Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 if you do the cheap way it may only cost you around 450-500 for the top end and you do it your self...mine cost me to rebuild top and bottom 3k....but it is one hell of a ride now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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